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I have been repairing the drivers side front cab corner on Willard. It wasn't bad but I wanted it right. I am installing a replacement cab floor that I cut out of a crunched truck in 1978. I have a 5' butt weld to do back at the rear of the cab just forward of the reinforcing for the gas tank. The corner rebuild came out great (too bad that it isn't very visable when the truck is assembled). A fitup of one of Northern Classic Trucks cab corner pieces was excellent. They are reasonable at $45/pair and they fit! I would recommend them.
I'm curious as to how well you got a floor out of 78 floor to fit? I have a spare 79 cab sitting out back that I could possibly use as some floor donor patch material
I have a floor out of a '48 F-6, that was also crushed, that I am going to install in my '48 panel, some day. I would like to see pictures of your project as you install the floor. I am going to do the same thing, the floor in a panel is the same as a regular cab and I plan to cut the floor out just in front of the seam where the floor meets the toe baord and just in front of the support where the gas tank sets in a regular cab.
The panel project was suppose to be done by now but it got sidelined by my F-4 project.
I have a floor out of a '48 F-6, that was also crushed, that I am going to install in my '48 panel, some day. I would like to see pictures of your project as you install the floor. I am going to do the same thing, the floor in a panel is the same as a regular cab and I plan to cut the floor out just in front of the seam where the floor meets the toe baord and just in front of the support where the gas tank sets in a regular cab.
The panel project was suppose to be done by now but it got sidelined by my F-4 project.
Your cousin Bob
A digital camera is on the xmas list. I have taken a few pix with a disposable camera and at some point will get them scanned. I guess you could say that I am digitally challanged! Right now the cab is in the shop lying on it's back (on an insulation blanket for support) while I rework any area in the front cab corners. It was cross braced at both doors and acroos the cowl at the front door jams before I cut the floor out. The TIG plus an old 240V swap meet spot welder are handling the chores.
So far, going well. The upcoming 5" long butt weld will be the challenge since I like to finish both sides. I prepped the back edge of the replacement floor panel by cutting it against a straight edge guide and then ground it as straight as possible against the straight edge. I plan to fit it up (clamping the flange at the front edge of the floor with the flange on the bottom of the firewall), mark the adjoining edge on the truck and cut/grind it flush against the same straight edge. I have some Cleco butt weld clamps but I hate to be limited to the .040" gap that they need. I want a better fitup than that. That is my plan and I'm sticking to it! We shall see.
I have a floor out of a '48 F-6, that was also crushed, that I am going to install in my '48 panel, some day. I would like to see pictures of your project as you install the floor. I am going to do the same thing, the floor in a panel is the same as a regular cab and I plan to cut the floor out just in front of the seam where the floor meets the toe baord and just in front of the support where the gas tank sets in a regular cab.
The panel project was suppose to be done by now but it got sidelined by my F-4 project.
Your cousin Bob
I wrote a detailed reply and it would not send. In short, I do not have a digital camera but am taking a few pix with a disposable.
You can grind a recess for the cleco's to sit in if you want to reduce the gap, leaving the recesses to fill later, however I have found that the .040 gap is about right for oxy welding (Henrob), not sure on TIG.....haven't played with one yet.
I tend to tack things with the mig, weld between the tacks with the oxy, hammer and dolly, air gun etc then grind off the mig tacks and finish with the oxy......but my dad who taught me was a "real welders don't have power cords" kind of beater
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