Deleting road draft tube
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
Deleting road draft tube
I posted about this previously,just couldn't find the info again.Someone posted info and a photo of what they did to delete the road draft tube on a 292 y-block.They had included the photo of the installation and the NAPA(I think)part numbers for the proper pcv valve and grommet to fit in the valley pan.I believe they may have mentioned how to block off the hole for the road draft tube.It was a real nice installation.Since I finally got a nice valley pan,i want to do this ,but of course, cannot find the post.Any help appreciated.Steve.1959 F250
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I've done this but it was many years ago and my memory is terrible. If I remember correctly I closed off the draft tube hole with a freeze plug and installed a PCV system. This was on a pre-67 Chevy V8, but the principle should be the same for any engine. The main thing is that if you close off the draft tube you need to make sure those crankcase gases can get out some other way... 
Vern
Vern
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Michigan
I used a valley pan that didn't have the the hole in it or the spash shield. So I welded in a splash shield, bought a PCV valve and grommet for a mustang 302 drilled the hole and installed valve and grommet.
I just made a plate and gasket then replaced the downdraft tube with these items.
It's worked fine for the last two years on my 256 cu in 54 merc car
I just made a plate and gasket then replaced the downdraft tube with these items.
It's worked fine for the last two years on my 256 cu in 54 merc car
Post Fiend
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From: Near Fresno, California
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From: Midland, Texas
That's the one *****... and here are the pics:
This is where I cut to be able to bolt it back stock style.
Cleaning up the hole for the brass tube.
Tube in place.
Bent a piece of aluminum at right angles, scribe, trim and JB weld the whole thing together.
Hey, thank Roger for this method... it is my take on what he did.
best, himmelberg
This is where I cut to be able to bolt it back stock style.
Cleaning up the hole for the brass tube.
Tube in place.
Bent a piece of aluminum at right angles, scribe, trim and JB weld the whole thing together.
Hey, thank Roger for this method... it is my take on what he did.
best, himmelberg
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,949
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
Thanks for the replys.Your draft tube looks different than the one on my truck.Mine has a hose that goes from a tube on the base of the carb to the top of draft tube.The post I am recalling just removed the entire draft tube and had some kind of a block off plate.Then,he installed a pcv/grommet( in the new valley pan that has the correct hole with an internal baffle plate) and rerouted the hose from the carb base to the pcv.Anyone have photos of this setup or recall the post?Steve
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
found the post!
It was by 46YBlock,from back in july of 2003.Grommet is HELP brand,part number 42054.Pcv is Deutsche brand, part number PCV134.Now all I need to do is find out where i can find a carb spacer for the two barrel holley that has the vacuum port.Mine is falling apart.Anyone know of a source?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Greenville, SC
I removed the draft tube from the round part that bolts to the valley pan. It took a little doing, you have to crush the end of the draft tube on the inside so it will come out of the round part that bolts to the valley pan. Then I took the round part to the part store and found a PCV and rubber grommet that fit into the hole previously occupied by the draft tube. Took them home and bolted it on. Total cost less than $6, including the hose to the carb.
One important thing is you need a vent somewhere. I installed a vented oil fill cap.
One important thing is you need a vent somewhere. I installed a vented oil fill cap.
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