My FSB problem. When starting it would idle at 2500rpm not good especially a cold start. Using a timing light I set the timing to idle around 500-1000 rpms. I did remove the spout plug and disconnected the battery to reset everything. After that the problems started. Now when driving its has no power, thinking that the tranny was the culprit I took it to a shop and $1300 later a bunch of new parts and taking it back for a recheck I still have no power when driving.

It takes an eternity to go 25 miles at 50mph. For a vehicle with a V8 you sure cant tell. The wifes Windstar accellerates better with the 3.0L. Thats embarrassing. Also when going uphill forget it, you need to have speed built up if youre going to try going uphill.

I was told that something was wrong with the engine. So I performed a major tune up. Cap, Rotor, Plugs, Wires, and filters. I did install the wires backwards, but fixing that did nothing except get it to turn over, because I also had to replace the battery too.

I have put a lot of money in to this vehicle to let it go. So please desperately someone with any ideas help me.

 

I'm sorry man, I wish you had found this site sooner. I don't believe it's your transmission though.

First things first...what year? What motor? How many miles? What kind of tranny? Any mods? What have you had done since this started happening?

Your timing should be set at 10*BTDC . When my Bronco did this, I did the same thing you did and took it to a tranny guy. Thankfully, I found an honest one who not only sent me on my way without touching anything, he let me know what might be the culprit, and even sent me to someone who helped out fixing it. In my case, I had a VERY TIRED 302, and went the rebuilt crate motor route. Looking back, I may have been able to go a cheaper route, but in the end, it was the engine. I could hit the Walt Whitman Bridge at 65, and then be in the left lane, blinkers on, going 40 by mid-span.

Have you run a compression test yet? Hearing any funny noises?

Stick around, there are a ton of guys in here who can give you as dead on a diagnosis as anyone can by just reading what you wrote. Seriously, I cannot tell you how much I saved in here. I'd leave her alone until you get some serious recommendations.

 

First thing you should do is pull the codes with a code reader. Get them pulled somewhere, buy a code reader or go the paper clip route.

 

[B]Might want to double check for dirty/blocked screens in ur fuel tank, in some injected systems look for 2nd inline FUEL FILTER on the rail under the driver's side door...manual will say "good for vehicle life" but if ur truck has this filter, it will need changing just like the other. I lost a clutch eventually due to this filter limiting my fuel flow-similar symptons plus almost 2 years of trial & error component changing to finally find it with a fuel pressure gauge that showed minimal fuel going to my engine-then we started looking for blockage...backwards but very educational in the long run!

 

When you reset the base timing, did you make certain the truck was completely warmed up BEFORE you removed the SPOUT connector and did the adjustments? Before reaching operating temperature, the EGR and the IAC are still in process of going through changes to compensate for thermal changes in the engine so attempting to adjust the base timing until then will be futile. Base timing must be set to apporximately 8-10* BTDC. The "catalyst" decal under the hood will tell you the exact setting.

 

My 302 EFI was doing the same thing a couple weeks ago. It was embarassingly slow. I took it to shop to get a diagnostic test. I know you said you checked your timing, but mine acted the same way and it turned out to be my timing. It cost $80 for the test, but they fixed my timing for me. It now runs better now than it has in a long time.

 

It is a 1988 FSB, AOD Tranny, 92345 posted miles if its rolled I dont know how many times. It has an after market ignition coil I didnt put this on. No other mods that I know of. While a crate or rebuilt motor would be nice it took awhile just to get the money to pay for the work just done. I did change the fuel filter today and it seemed to perform a little better, but I still wont be doing quarter mile launches yet.

I forget how to pull the codes.

I dont remeber if the engine was warm or cold when setting the timing. There is a white mark on the harmonic balancer that when timing was set to it, the idle seemed to be where it needed to be.

I have not done a compression test, that was something I was considering.

When I changed the spark plugs one (cylinder 8) i think had a littlle oil on it but not enough to effect performance like this.

There are no decals on the plastic shroud piece I assume its been replaced.

Can you be more specific about the screens in the gas tank.

No funny noises.

Thank you for input and advice fellow enthusiasts...

 

Ok, first off, the idle has absolutely NOTHING to do with the timing in a computer controlled engine (the computer controls the idle beyond the base setting just like vacuum used to in older vehicles). Unfortunately, the days of setting timing by ear are gone with these trucks. You absolutely HAVE to follow the procedure or you will get erroneous base timing settings. The truck HAS to be at operating temp to set the base timing. With the truck at normal op. temp, the SPOUT must be disconnected and a timing light employed to set base timing. Unless ALL of these criteria are met, the setting will be off and your performance WILL suffer.

Once you have set the base timing. You must disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to clear the error codes generated by the fact that the SPOUT connector was removed. Then, and only then, can you replace the SPOUT connector, reconnect the battery and go drive it for about a half hour at all speeds, city, highway, partial and WOT. This gives the computer the oppotunity to "re-learn" the operational parameters of the engine.

The decal is on the UNDERSIDE the hood, not on the fan shroud or the radiator crossmember.

 

U just might want to check ur COIL (?) and dbl check for possible existance of that second fuel filter near ur fuel pump-my engine seemed to run a little better when i changed the main filter the first time, also-months later is when i discovered that second one. Doubtful that the screen in ur tank is plugged although i've been told it does happen if the vehicle has been sitting for some time before getting it on the road again...

 

I went to work on the Bronco, I figure I would check the timing since I dont remember if it was warmed up when I set it previously. After hooking up the timing light I discovered that the spout connector was missing. So possibly all this time my crappy performance is due to a missing spout. DOH!!! Now its off to the salvage yard to find a replacement and then we will see how things go. Thanks for all advice I'll keep in touch to see if this is all it took.

 

Well once again here I am. Ford dealership had spout connector. Installed it and seemed to have better than performance but not great. Basically Im getting pretty frustrated with this thing I do everything I can think of and take suggestions as to possible solutions and still I cant get the performance I should, if it wasnt so flat around here I'd drive it off a cliff, at least then it would go fast until ground zero. I know it sounds like Im trying for quarter mile launches but hell it has a V8 perform like one. Thanks for taking the time to read my venting.

 

how did it run before you messed with it? was it slow before and you were trying to get it better or was it a lingering problem that was just getting worse has the timing has been set correctly spout put back in and still no change has the timing been set for an older vehicle (comensating for timing chain stretch and worn internals) simple checks of little things could help the problem is exhoust plugging up getting enough spark from coil vacuum leaks had problems before in my wifes van like this 92 e 150 302 and it was a bunch of little problems that just needed to be addressed now it runs like a raped ape for as big as it is so take your time and check the little stuff it might just pay off for ya good luck also having a similar problem with my bronco 90 302 5 speed wouldnt idle down it was vacuum leaks egr tube broke and a bad iac hope this helps

 

I would say this about covers what is wrong!!!
If you work on something and it is worse than when you started then it is most likly something you have done.

 

you need to set the timing to 10 or 12*btdc with spout removed. then once thats done pull the codes to diag your high idle issue. i dont understand why you changed your timing to fix the hi idle at start up. most rigs have a hi idle at start programed , i know my bronco revs about 1500rpms for about a min then backs down. What kinda plugs are you using? what kinda plug wires. did you make sure to route them nice so they are not touching each other this to will cause a loss in power. also note that you are driving close to a 6000lb rig i didnt catch what v8 you have but the weight of the rig will suck the power out of any v8 stock. you might locate your rear axle and see what gear ratio you have as well. if its 3.08's that will be part of the problem as well

 

[B]Ok, i know this is kinda long, but try to hang and review if nec. and try my suggestions. i spent almost a YEAR in ur shoes - that exp. should be worth SOMETHING anyway - if nothing else to save another some grief, so here goes...

still think u shud concentrate on engine electrical/ignition specific stuff - my next focus w/be on internal distributor stuff(only AFTER the COIL is TESTED AND OK) replace the distributor altogether if $ allow (saves time, u will most likely later anyway), or study ur manual, identify installed model and specifics of ur setup, then 1 by 1 start elimination process for each distributor component (ie: Hall Effect switch, vane, etc. see ur specs in manual) to accurately ID failure individually will be time/knowledge waste of time) but some TFI setups require calibration/wear related updates or adjustments over time (as another suggested timing chain stretch, engine wear, etc.) On some ford motors, there is an actual sensor that adjusts position of the crank and camshaft to synchronized initial start positions; this reduce misfire when cold, wear on major internal engine parts (excuse my lack of terminology at times, pls).
ok, not the distributor? well ford vehicles inc. this year, if equipped w/TFI system using a module mounted DIRECTLY ON DISTRIBUTOR-i rec'd notice yrs. ago 4 lawsuits pending. Module installed on these were found to be DEFECTIVE and cause stalling, irratic ignition failure, and judgement against ford for lots of $$ included RECALL of MODULE in vehicles equipped with this setup. i surmise poss HEAT retention in eng compartment causes electronics in module to overheat as no air flow when stopped) essentially BAKING module ea time engine shut down. module internal stuff IS TOO HOT TO FUNCTION NORMALLY and is slow/deficient in sending signals to engine control components relying on direct info to assist w/individual electronic engine adjustments when necessary to get optimum performance and efficiency. LAST BUT NOT LEAST, after eliminating HALL EFFECT SWITH, VANE, MODULE, ETC. ETC., (see above dist. info) u are probably gonna be left no alternative but to R&R THE DISTRIBUTOR anyway, including the module. u may think i'm NUTS, but try re-reading my ideas a couple of times (my vocabulary/terms sometimes less than adequate but my knowledge and understanding of concepts i'm try explain is good and usually obtained w/HANDS ON actual exp. but (rarely) i share thots/incorrect information details, pls CORRECT my data w/DATA/FACTS to support validity of YOUR info. (CONCEPTS/ideas above are from several YEARS searching & TRYING to diagnose very similar stuff on my ford); do know my stuff - honest! vocabulary sometimes a problem 4 me. GOOD LUCK-take ONE idea AT A TIME - NO CHANGE or EFFECT upon completion when investigating component related issues usually indicates item is ok - continue only when any changes made are reversed back to original state/settings.