IDLE and POWER LOSS now sounding like some vacuum lines are misrouted...every engine/vehicle year is slightly different - my advice before doing ANYTHING else would be to:
read your book - TWICE!
(gotta know what ur working on before ya can fix it!)

 

Not meaning to avoid questions asked, I thought I would start over. I removed the intake plenum and replaced the gasket and reset the timing. Here is exactly how I did it.

First - I warmed up the Bronco and let it run to get to operating temp.
Second - I hooked up the timing light to see where the timing light flashed on the balancer.
Third - I removed the spout connector
Fourth - I adjusted the timing using the timing light.
Fifth - I turned the vehicle off.
Sixth - I reinstalled the spout connector.
Seventh - I removed the positive battery cable.
Eighth - I left the cable unconnected for about 20 minutes.
Ninth - I reconnected the positive battery cable.
Finally After checking to make sure everything was connected properly, I went to road test the Bronco. I now have so little power that I barely made it up the driveway.

I figured that if I basically started over that I could fix anything that I may have done wrong the first time but now I dont know what to do.

 

are you sure you went off the correct marks on the balancer? if the balancer has spun it could cause an issue as well.

 

I marked 10 btdc with whit out. if the balancer has spun I dont know.

 

guys, when checking for vacumn leaks dont use starting fluid as earlier stated ,that is way to dangerous it is much safer using a small propane bottle with a small tip just barely crack the valve open on the tip and move it around the top of your motor. starting fluid is way more flamable then propane and the propane is easier to control where its going. keep a fire ext. close by whatever way you do it

 

Ok, it sounds to me like the balancer has slipped. Are you getting any other symptoms of incorrect timing? Backfiring or cherry hot exhaust pipes?

If you have a timing problem, you obviously have to fix that. See below. If you are still getting the high idle problem, I would fix that first. Check for vacuum leaks using the methods gone over here. 7fords is right - you are putting flammable gases near a running engine. You have to be careful. Use common sense!!

To re-set the timing mark:

Pull the #1 spark plug. Have a helper turn the motor over with a socket and breaker bar until you feel air being pushed out of the spark plug hole forcefully. This means the piston is on the compression stroke and approaching TDC. Put something soft into the hole - a drinking straw is a good idea. When the piston comes to the top of the stroke, look at the mark you were timing it with and see how far it is from the 0 degree mark. It should be very close. Obviously, the harder you try to get it closer to TDC, the more accurate it will be. I would suggest moving the engine back and forth until you are REAL sure you are very close to TDC.

If it's off, then the balancer has spun. You can mark a new TDC mark with whiteout and use that to time it. Or, you can replace the balancer. They are keyed, and only install one way. That way you KNOW you have a good mark to time off of.

 

Would I need to remove all the spark plugs? Doesnt turning the motor get hard and then break free with the plugs still in it? Also would I be able to tell if the balancer has spun by looking at it?

 

TPS check it....

 

What do you mean? Throttle position sensor?

 

If you get a breaker bar on it, you should be able to turn it over. Removing all the spark plugs will make it easier, but it's debatable if it's worth the effort.

Didn't you say you already checked the TPS?

 

Guys, guys, re-read his post at the top of the page...anyone see the reason for the problem? The balancer hasn't slipped! He checked timing BEFORE removing the SPOUT connector! With the SPOUT connector in place spark timing signal is still getting to the ignition and the reading he got was with the spark output signal still in place. He just compensated for the "advance" initiated by the spark output signal rather than the actual base timing.

Armoredcar,

You need to swap points "two" and "three" from your process when you set the base timing.

 

Steps 3 & 4 are in the correct order. If he did exactly as he said he did, then the timing is set correctly according to the balancer marks. Step two is pretty inconsequential, as long as the SPOUT is removed when he set the timing - which is what he said he did.

But then again, I have a habit of taking things pretty literally.

 

If you take it literally, he checked the timing, THEN removed the SPOUT. That isn't gonna work.

 

Looks right to me.

 

Not concerned about the 3-4. Its the 2-3 that has me bothered. You can't check the timing BEFORE you remove the SPOUT connector. It WON'T be anywhere NEAR where its supposed to be at base timing and base timing is the ONLY thing you can set, check, adjust, whatever. With the SPark OUTput signal still getting through, the timing will be adjusted by the computer and if you adjust based on this information, its gonna be wrong. Its like adjusting the timing on an old engine with the vacuum advance line from the carb. still connected to the distributor. Its gonna be off. All the SPOUT connector does is interrupt the signal from the computer so the timing is NOT affected by it. Like removing the vacuum advance line from the vacuum diaphram on and old distributor, the SPOUT connector MUST be OUT when the timing is checked initially otherwise any adjustment you make will be off because the timing is being controlled by the computer not the simple mechanics of the running engine.