Just take it somewhere and have them set your timing.

 

thats not going to fix anything . he needs to figure out what he did wrong and fix himself. a shop will just charge you a bunch for something he can do.

 

Agreed but a lot of people are sending him on a wild goose chase when he basically stated what was wrong with it to begin with.

 

The reason I began messing with it was the idle at startup was around 2500 RPMs and even when warmed up it stayed this high. When I checked the timing the degrees indicator wasnt even visible, so I started rotating the distributor to get the idle down and set the timing to 10 BTDC. I did the spout thing and disconnected the battery, reinstall the spout and hook up the battery and ever since then the power was gone.

I have replaced the cap, rotor, plugs(Motorcraft), wires, air filter, and fuel filter. I took it to a Ford Dealership to see if the transmission was a possible culprit. After $1300 the Bronco still runs like crap. Even they said it must engine related, nice of them to say that after the tranny work. I drove it home and when I went to check the timing I noticed the spout was missing. I got a new spout, checked the timing to make sure plugged the spout in and still poor performance.

If there is an easy way to check the timing chain, I would certainly try that, I have no idea how many miles are truly on it. Vacuum leaks are a possibility. Prior to setting the timing I had the intake plenum off( I dont remember why ). One thing I have noticed is that when decellerating it feels like it accellerates a little. I had a similar problem on an IROC many years ago. The diagnosis then was an intake manifold gasket. Since I only went as far as the plenum I figure this is a gppd place to start. I'll keep in touch.

 

Sound like a vacuum leak was the start of your problem. you need to fix what was making it idle high first. From your symptoms it sounds like the timing is way off but you can't set it until you get the other fixed.
The easiest way to check your timing chain is to remove the coil wire first then remove the dist cap and put a socket on the crank pulley and move it backwards until the rotor moves then mark the pulley and move it forward until the rotor starts to move this measures the timing chain wear. I can't remember how much it is supposed to move but someone will post it for you.

 

to check for vacum leaks spray starter fluid around the hoses and gaskets. if rpms increase there is your problem. when you removed the upper did you install a new gasket? you probably did but i have to ask.

 

[B]u do have a point about the weight of the rig - but am still betting on lack of SUFFICIENT spark which w/point to the distributor or coil - otherwise my bet is on a possible EXHAUST PROBLEM, almost like someone put a potato in the tailpipe (remember those days, fellas?)...don't remember - has a compression test been done?

 

I think some are missing the point here. First he had a high idle problem and he tried to fix it by adjusting the timing.
So when you have the engine at 2500rpms the timing is way advanced as this is the way it is supposed to work. There for when he set the timing with the high idle problem he is actually retarding the timing by I would say at least 10-20 degrees which is the reason he has no power. Remember the 351m's how they were set retarded by the factory and with a new timing set where the cam timing was set at 0 degrees they ran so much better.
If you see any flaws in my comments please let me know.

 

then how come he says that the timing is set at 10*btdc with spout removed. that is the correct factory setting and he still has no power. so either the dizzy is not in correctly or something else is wrong. its possible the timing chain jumped a tooth or the balancer marks are off because it spun.

 

He set the timing at 10 degrees at 2500 rpm. timing should be set at around 800-1000 rpm or there about. At 2500 rpm the timing is advanced so he retarded it to the 10 degrees btdc and I would say that the timing is now not able to advance to where it needs to be when driving.

 

Armoredcar - please answer these questions:

Does the high idle problem still exist?

What is the timing set to now?

What was it set to before you changed it?

Based on the answers to these questions we can help you. I'm picking up on some frustration in this thread, and I think it's because everyone is having a hard time getting direct answers from you to questions. You have a habit of not answering a question directly, changing the subject, or post conflicting information in the same sentence.

Example:

This makes no sense to me at all. You couldn't find the timing marks - but then you set it to 10 BTDC? WTF? Are you timing this thing by ear? If so, read greystreak's post on how important it is to set timing the right way. He is 100% correct.

We need to fix the timing first. Then we can help you figure out the high idle problem. There are a lot of really resourceful, smart, and experienced people here willing to help you - but you have to let us help you.

 

The way I understand it he set the timing while it was idling at 2500 rpms. There for the timing would have been so advanced he would not be able to see the timing makes at the pointer so he retarded it until it was at 10 btdc.
The thing is when the motor is above idle the timing advances through the engine vacuum. When the motor was idling high he tried to set the timing.
It can't be done like that.

 

The advance is not vacuum controlled. There are no vacuum lines going to my distributor.

When you remove the SPOUT, it disables all the computer controlled advance so you can set the base timing. There is no advance at all. So why would an increase in RPMs cause the timing to be thrown off?

I'm not trying to be a smartass, please don't take it that way. I'm asking an honest question there.

The easiest way to prove or disprove this is to pull the SPOUT, hook up a light, and rev the motor. My guess is that it won't change, and I think you're saying it will.

 

My mistake. Guess thats why I should only work on one engine at a time instead of the 3 I have torn apart.
I still say he needs to get the idle down and that you cannot set the timing when you are at 2500 rpms.

 

If the base timing is set with ALL of the criteria that are required to do so met at the time it is set, and the distributor clamp is locked down, the base timing is set... end of story. There is no other means of chaging the base timing and the ONLY way its going to be set properly is IF the engine is arleady warmed up to normal operating temperature BEFORE attempting to set the base timing. The SPOUT connector MUST be removed BEFORE restarting the warmed engine. The timing must be within the range of 8-12*BTDC with the engine warm, running (obviously), and the SPOUT connector removed. If these criteria were met, move on, the base timing is set and no further adjustment is necessary.

In typing this I came up with an idea that hans't seen the light of day here in quite some time but its a viable possibility.

Armoredcar,
You say the idle is high all the time and doesn't seem to drop. You say you have checked and replaced the IAC. I am going to assume you are not pulling any codes from the computer that would indicate a faulty IAC. Barring vacuum leaks which by this point in time I imagine you have gone over the entire engine bay with a fine-toothed comb making sure there are none, there remains one odd possibility. The problem can be tested for by performing the "dead IAC" test.

IF you know how to perform this test then you know that a properly functioning IAC will allow the truck to quickly stumble and die if the electrical connector to it is disconnected. If you disconnect the IAC connection, does the truck stumble and die within a few seconds?

(To perform the "Dead IAC" test, again, warm the truck up to normal op. temp. When it has reached normal operating temperature, with the engine still running, disconnect the electrical connector from the IAC. The truck should do a nice gradual fade to a stop over about 10-15 seconds or less).

If this test is administered and the truck fails to die,you either haven't found the vacuum leak yet OR your idle problem was inflcited by a lazy mechanic, previous (or current) owner who didn't know any better, or some strange mystical force that can turn nylon-stopped screws while you aren't looking. If the latter is indeed the case, it will involve a slightly tedious process of resetting a "factory set" adjustment that should never be tampered with.