Wheel Alignment Question
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New User
Joined: Oct 2005
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John,
After getting advice from my orignal post I went back to tire shop and started asking questions. Basically the mechanic told me the same you found out but said he hardly ever really explains the procedure because most people don't know or really understand the he is telling them.
He gave me a little before and after readout of the alignment. It looked good to me but then again wha do I know?
Now about 2000 miles later it is steering is starting to pull the left again. So far haven't done anything about it. I am tempted to try you DYI method with the help of someone who has the tools, if I screw it up probably won't cost any more to thave it done anyhow.
After getting advice from my orignal post I went back to tire shop and started asking questions. Basically the mechanic told me the same you found out but said he hardly ever really explains the procedure because most people don't know or really understand the he is telling them.
He gave me a little before and after readout of the alignment. It looked good to me but then again wha do I know?
Now about 2000 miles later it is steering is starting to pull the left again. So far haven't done anything about it. I am tempted to try you DYI method with the help of someone who has the tools, if I screw it up probably won't cost any more to thave it done anyhow.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 145
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From: So. California
Get a print out and learn to read it
The best form of DIY is actually to DYOM...."do your own managing." That means finding reliable help, and keeping tabs on progress. Specifically, I highly recommend every alignment customer ask for and receive a printout of "before" and "after" alignment readings. Without exception, every such printout I have seen provides specifications, tolerances, and actual readings. You can plainly see if your results are within spec or not. Just examine the numbers, and look for error flags, to boot.
Don't forget to examine "cross camber," as it might explain your "pull" to one side. IOW, you can have absolute camber IN SPEC for each of two wheels, while the cross is OUT of spec. The cross is indicative of a cumulative error.
Don't forget to examine "cross camber," as it might explain your "pull" to one side. IOW, you can have absolute camber IN SPEC for each of two wheels, while the cross is OUT of spec. The cross is indicative of a cumulative error.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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I just replaced the tie rod ends and everything in between, in a 1983 Ranger. The parts were out of a 1987 Ranger 4x4. I have been searching for some info on perhaps doing my own alignment on the toe in. I was reading your article and, remembered that I had read somewhere that a slight bit of toe in is necessary to improve cornering. What do you think about this? This would make the front measurement different from the back of the tire measurements. Also, after you replace the tie rods, how do you determine which wheel to adjust. If you start measuring from the passenger side wheel to the drivers side to compare your measurements and the passenger side is out, what effect will that have on the results. I appreciate your answer in advance. Thanks
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by maples01
Toe in is easy, I did this on my Scout II years ago when changing a tie rod end, it's adjusting the sleeve on them. You have the tires installed, resting on jack stands, under the beams compressing suspension as if it's on the ground, like you did to set caster/camber. Get a good tape measure, and a partner, locate a center line in the tires, measuring from passenger tire to drivers tiret in the front and rear, you want to equal the number, zero it out. When I was done, I took it in for getting it set to spec, but machine said it was already there, guy was suprised with my work, found my steering box was loose and tightened it with me, no extra charge.
I'm looking to replace a friends ball joints and coil springs in his 95 van, has near 300,000 miles on stock everything, his wheelchair lift has broken down the passenger coil spring, so it's riding low there, and really eating the tires. I want to get the alighnment close for him.
I'm looking to replace a friends ball joints and coil springs in his 95 van, has near 300,000 miles on stock everything, his wheelchair lift has broken down the passenger coil spring, so it's riding low there, and really eating the tires. I want to get the alighnment close for him.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,040
Likes: 137
From: Maryville
You only adjust the one side, yeah, I believe there is supposed to se some, but I'm not sure how much, I try to zero it out, impossible to get total zero. I have to do my 99 E-350 soon, had to replace the entire drivers side ends, inner and outer, didn't get it right, so it's wandering.
The link that connects the drivers side to the passenger adjust the toe in/out, the other will lengthen the steering arm, cutting back on your ability to turn one direction or the other, just use it to zero out your steering wheel, make it set level.
The link that connects the drivers side to the passenger adjust the toe in/out, the other will lengthen the steering arm, cutting back on your ability to turn one direction or the other, just use it to zero out your steering wheel, make it set level.
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