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Old Oct 16, 2005 | 11:35 PM
  #61  
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xuzme720
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yeah, I'm not looking forward to that job. need to do it soon though. my girl has over 220,000 miles on her. not sure if it's ever been done.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #62  
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Typically....When your chain wears out the cam (and ignition) are retarded. The crank pulls on the chain so the longer it gets the slower the timing gets. Probably not it.

It's always best to rule out the easy (non computer/electronic) stuff first.

Easy things that cause this can be vac leaks (too much air), or lean fuel. Does it run rough at an idle or run fast at an idle? Either could indicate a vac leak.
Hoses, leaking brake boosters, pcv hoses, intake gaskets.....
Is the EGR working, those help stop pinging.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:16 AM
  #63  
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xuzme720
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just reread the whole thread....for some reason,(not sure why, probably due to too much fun in high school) I thought we had covered vacuum leaks, EGR and the like. we didn't. how did we let this happen?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:32 AM
  #64  
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I'm pretty much sure that we did cover vacuum leaks.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:36 AM
  #65  
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ok just worried we had missed something else.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:01 AM
  #66  
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Well, I have noticed that regardless of how tight the distributor is bolted down, over time it does move through repeated heat cycles combined with the contsant fluctuating inertia passing through it. In mine the timing was retarded. You can go slightly beyond the factory setting, but the NOX emmisions might get too high to pass emmissions.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:13 AM
  #67  
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I'll be honest with you guys.. I have never owned a car that has had a distributor, other than my tempo, in which case timing was the last thing i had to worry about...

What do i exactly have to do?
Just remove the bolt to the distributor and then what?

Please be as specific as possible.
I was hoping that it would've been the timing chain, because that's something that i have done before
 
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:03 PM
  #68  
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xuzme720
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you don't have to remove the bolt. in fact, better if you don't. just loosen until you can move it with some effort, but not enough to move on it's own. then simply turn in one direction...only a few degrees at a time. start the motor and see if there's any difference. if it gets worse turn the other way. note: it is possible to do this while the engine is running, however if the distributor hangs up and suddenly releases (turning halfway round) , you might damage something else in the motor. better to start the motor after you adjust. continue until you hear the sweet sound of your aero's smooth running powerplant(hopefully).
this is to adjust the base timing so you will need to unplug the spout connector while doing this, just don't forget to re-plug afterwards.
if you're using a timing light it will be easier to set to 10 degrees BTDC. if doing it by ear, well just listen for the smoothest running setting. also if you're close there should be very little odor in your exaust.
good luck.
 

Last edited by xuzme720; Oct 17, 2005 at 04:07 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:39 PM
  #69  
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Thanks guys.. I checked the timing today, and it's rght on the money. I started moving the distributor anyway, and it just makes things worse.
But here is what i found out.
It's not pinging that I'm hearing, it's the Distributor making really bad grinding noises.
I checked and replaced the rotor, but the cap was in good condition.
Does your distributors make any noise at all?
What could this be the cause of?
 
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 01:08 AM
  #70  
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1. gear on far end or camshaft gear, broken teeth or badly worn.
2. internal shaft bushings in distributor worn or shaft bent.
pull dist. and check
 
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