me thinks electronic, (if I read that right) linked directly to the ECU, with the spout connected to the PCM and ICM.

 

Hi Guys:

There is no Octane plug for the 3.0L, only the SPOUT plug. On the 4.0L, Ken, there is also an Octane plug, that looks identical to the SPOUT plug. What's the function of that plug? To confuse us, since I could see no reference to it in the owner's manual, and the Ford CD didn't say anything about how it's used, only where it is. As far as the timing advance, it's done by the ECU, not by the two big weights in the distributor of old cars. Cliff, you must be at least as old as I am if you can still remember those mechanical or vacuum advances.

 

I told myself that I would never have a rear distributor vehicle after fighting GM products all those years, had a Goat GTO that by the time I got to the dist. the only thing sticking out from under the hood was my shoe laces, broke ribs working on it.

so, never have had the pleasure of looking in a F 3L V6 dist. even the placement of the 4L coil pack must have been decided by Ford Accounting Div. the 3L dist. system must use Hall effect which then signals the ECU/PCM, the ECU then triggers the coil based upon some rpm measurement to compute spark advance angle? so if the rpm measurement is incorrect because of a component failure, the spark advance will be wrong. old school '80s tech.

yes, I went thru the initial difficult learning curve. Dealership shop conversation, what do you mean- I can't set the timing or idle speed to what i want? still bothers me to this day, no carburetor to play with the jets on or set float levels. the days of we DIYers are almost over, sealed automatic transmissions out there now with no owner accessible check or fill hole.
I read somewhere in the Ford CD, believe in the EVTM section, that the 4L octane plug was put in for those areas of the world where minimum 87 octane was not available, pull the plug and octane requirement initial spark advance setting was reduced to 83 octane, cheap way of not having to rewrite the PCM coding for lower octane fuel areas. saved them money with Intel who created the Ferd PCM.
I have to buy Supremo in Mehico or my Aero bucks like a mule, what they call diesel down there is more like ship bunker oil.

 

SO i changed 4 of the plugs that i got to, to see if there was a change in pinging.,
There was.. it's much worse now.
And when the engine is reved up now to about 4500rpm, it starts to miss.
The plugs that were in there were much lower in heat range and the gap was at 0.050".
Not only that, the electrodes were destroyed due to preignition.

the next thing to tackle is to replace the other 2 plugs, and then to check the timing.

Any help will be much appreciated.

 

Just a point about spark plugs (if you don't know).
I hear much confusion about plugs while at the parts counter so here you go for any readers who don't get it.

The hotter the spark plug heat range the more likely it will ping.
The colder the heat range the less likely it will cause the ping.

Hot plugs run hotter an can cause pre ignition, but won't oil foul as much if you have an oil drinker.
Cold plugs run colder and are less likely to cause pre ignition but can foul out much easier if you burn oil.

This may be why there were cold plugs in it, someone was trying to help the problem with plugs......Nothing like trying to fix a problem you inherited, always a mystery.

 

Actually... here's a funny update...
It turns out they were the right plug in there, and that Champion has the wrong plug listed. So here's the lesson: Champion RS12yc is not the plugs for this car. I rechecked the plug number that was previosuly in the car and they were the correct part number, however when the gap was recheckec on the other 3 they were at 0.060" due to severe wear. So I went and got the autolite counterpart for them. Going to install them once the engine gets stone cold (in about 5 hours).

 

what autolite plug part number did you get? the Aero V engines love Autolite/Motorcrat double platinums, will last 100k miles in a good running engine, about the life of the ign. wire and saves at least 3 quarts of knuckle blood and meat in 3 changes of regular plugs. I was a Champion plug user only until i fell in love with this Aero in '96, had lots of bad experiences with Autolite, but the Aero breaths fire and eats 4.3L Astros alive on the Autolites.
use a light coating of spark plug anti seize on the threads and compression seal ring, helps plug heat transfer and prevents plug seizure in the head, torque only to specs, not like the old taper seat Ford V8 plugs.
put some silicone dielectric ign. grease in each plug wire boot, keeps out moisture and makes getting the wire off much easier.

 

I once had a conversation with a mechanic friend of mine (30 years experience working on all makes/models,) and here is his recomendation for plugs.

Fords = Motorcraft/Autolite
Mopar = Champion (which actually make the OEM plugs)
GM = ACDelco
Japs = OEM or NGK

He said that if you sway from this, you will have performance, economy, and short plug life.

 

So it is not the plugs....
It's still pinging like crazy. Timing is next
PS. how do you change the back two plugs?
I don't have a single ratchet that will fit into those back ones.
I'll post a picture of the spark plug in a bit

 

Here's a pic

 

at this point timing is what I'm thinking.
as far as the two rear plugs, well they really are the most difficult. you might try going through the wheelwell on the pass side or even from underneath. the drivers side is another matter-sits right up against the firewall. I've had better luck on that one squeezing my arm through from the front between all the wires/hard lines. may try the socket on the plug first, then the ratchet to the socket afterwards.
this may be why all aero owners are so creative, the need to change those plugs.

out of curiosity...did you ever clear the memory on your computers?(pull ground for 10min.)

 

I did.. with my code reader...
After replacing the plugs. I got about a dozen codes...
Going from MAF to O2 to system running lean. So i just cleared the codes, and reset the pcm. NO codes so far, but extreme pinging.

I will try and record what the car sounds like tonight while driving, and post it up.

 

try the timing first, then drive to reset learned parameters...might help.

 

clearing the failure/error codes with a code reader does NOT clear the K.eep A.live M.emory unique to your vehicle learned engine operation parameters, either takes disconnecting the batt. neg lead for 5-10 minutes or Ford dealer shop PCM/ECU systems monitor equipment. takes from 10-20 miles of driving to relearn complete KAM parameters and set the Ready code for emissions testing, engine can run rough in default mode until relearn is complete and system is in complete closed loop operation mode. disconnecting the batt. does set another code that Ford shop can see.
I use a 3/8" plug socket with several long extensions to 18"s and several u-joints to reach the plugs.
does it ping when cold just after start up?
the plug pic...some carbon or oil buildup on the inside insulator but would only cause miss, not enough to cause pinging except when hot. that much carbon on plugs indicates potential for heavy long term buildup on pistons and combustion chambers, heavy buidlups can cause pinging by raising compression ratio, light carbon buildup will only ping aka precombust when the carbon is hot enough to ignite the fuel mix early.
if base timing is ok, then probably carbon buildup, use water mist injection at throttle body, will spread and cover all the plenum runners to all six holes and make the pistons and combustion chambers as clean as a baby's bottom, mini steam explosions, safe been used for years, Spitfire and P51 Mustang would have all been shot out of the skys by the ****e Wolfs FW190's if not for water injection, will do nothing for intake valve tulip buildup on backside.

 

It pings at all times. As soon as i press on the gas slightly it will ping like crazy.
It will get so rapid during acceleration that it just becomes one loud noise...