If I'm thinking of what I'm thinking of....(I know, sounds bad), why don't you just get a big bolt, about the same diameter of that pin, and just drive that sucker out? Before I went with a four-link rear suspension, I was going with the original leaf spring suspension. I got all the pins and bushings to replace the old worn out ones. I just used a big bolt and a hammer to drive out the pins.

Now, here's another tip. If you replace the bushings too, use a socket about the same size as the bushing, and you can drive that out with a hammer too. Just use an old beat up socket, if you have one

 

53fat - I would be nice to be able to punch it straight out but the access hole in the frame to punch the pin out of the front pin on the rear springs is blocked on the 48-50's by the rear cross member braces. Big time 55 year old engineering oops by Ford but not fatal. Many folks simply cut a hole in the interfering plate/bracket and rolled on. I wanted to avioid that if at all posible. I trust they corrected this problem in later years.

George - It was 1/8" NPT - Thanks for the answer. Problem is I could not easily locate anything but brass in 1/8" NPT. Tried it with my mega slide hammer - about a 25# cylindercal weight that slides over an old car axle with a big a$$ nut welded to the end. Very effective. I'll have to post a picture sometime. Anyhow, all it did was snap the brass set-up I put together on the first pop with the slide hammer.

I ended up grinding off the rviets from the offending plate. It needed to be removed anyway because I had rust puckering up in the bottom seam between the plate and the frame.

 

I can see how that might cause you problems then. Good luck.

 

Thanks and appreciate the help. I've not popped the bushings out yet. Where did you get your new ones? The manual doesn't go into much deatil on how to replace these or what they look like. Everything on mine is so crudded up, it's difficult to discern bushing form the spring eylets so I can't tell what the look like or how deep they go in. Which side did you drive the bushing from/to?

Thanks

Carl

 

You'll have to clean up the eyelet area pretty good and I think you'll be able to see the bushings then. As far as driving the bushing, if I remember right, it shouldn't matter what side you drive it from, but check on both sides of the spring first to see if one looks more "achievable" than working on the other side. I know when I got mine out, with only 70,000 original miles on the truck, they were worn pretty bad. There should be a bolt that acts as a pin on the outside of the spring eyelet that is perpendicular to the pin, it runs along a groove in your pin to hold the pin in. Make sure you get that out first, or you'll be working against yourself. I got my pins from Sacramento Vintage over 10 years ago for about $50, it was a kit. I did this to my leafs about that long ago too, 10 years or so..., so I'm going from memory here on the directions. Like I said, I scrapped my leafs, I never drove the truck with them. When I got my engine built, and then my 9 inch rear, I just decided to go with the 4-link setup. I didn't want the wheel hop with my engine.... I might have over done it a bit with the engine.....no wait, there is no such thing

Good, luck. Any more questions, just ask

 

I got the pins and bushings from a local spring and suspension outfit. As I mentioned in my previous post, my x-member had holes torched into it but not inline with the pins. I had a length of 1/2 round stock that I used for a drift. Not one of my favorite jobs on these old trucks. I wish I would have had the bed off of the truck when I did it, it sure would have made things alot easier..

On one side there wasn't even a pin in place. The previous owner had just stuck a large bolt in the hole. the only thing that kept if from falling out was the bedside of the truck....nice huh?

Bobby