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Oct 9, 2005 | 05:42 PM

allis327

Thread Starter

Tuned

Joined: Oct 2005

Posts: 427

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From: Melrose MN

rust

I live in Minnesota and they use alot of salt on our roads so this maybe a unique problem. ON my 2000 F250 the drivers side rear door there was peeling paint and rust under the rubber seal on the bottom of the door. I removed the rubber from all the doors and only had the one bad spot. There would have been more next year because even when I wipe down the doors and jambs after a wash there is still dirt stuck under the rubber. Something to think about because rust sucks.

Oct 9, 2005 | 06:44 PM

350z

Laughing Gas

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 833

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From: latrobe pa

Check out Eastwood Company excellent rustproofing products , I used the brownish gold undercoat on my entire truck , excellent product !

Oct 12, 2005 | 01:47 PM

Fat Diesel

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Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 3,884

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From: Morgan Hill, CA

The #1 spot to check is your oil pan. Quotes from the dealer to replace run from $1400-1800. They rust through and the dealer has to pull the engine and turn it upside down to replace it... I HATE RUST !

Oct 12, 2005 | 09:31 PM

99f350sd

Lead Driver

Joined: May 2003

Posts: 9,303

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From: Lyndonville, Vermont

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fat Diesel

Use Rust Bullet... Check it out best stuff around.. I Hate rust worse..

Oct 13, 2005 | 12:08 PM

Fat Diesel

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Joined: Aug 2005

Posts: 3,884

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From: Morgan Hill, CA

I'm sure you guys do hate it worse. My pan has 170,000+ on it and has zero rust, only a couple of spots where the clear coat is peeling a bit. But I have been working some rust off a 351W block I got from a boat... Navel Jelly works pretty good if you leave it on long enough.

Have any of you guys tried a rust converter that chemically converts the rust into a paintable polymer? I used some on the floor of the Falcon and it works pretty good.

Oct 13, 2005 | 12:30 PM

SLE

Posting Guru

Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 1,708

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From: North Dakota

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fat Diesel

I learn something new every day; I've never heard of a oil pan rusting through though.

I live in ND and your MN salt seems to work its way across the river. even when I wouldn' drive on the MN side for weeks at a time my car would be still be white with the salt residue although it could be a city thing to. in the midwestern part of ND they use a mix of salt, gravel, and some byproduct from the coal plants. I don't think the salt content is all that high but the leading edge of your hood takes a beating from the gravel and the black coal residual really reminds you to wash your car, you don't want to lean against the car if you've been on a recent hwy trip.

Oct 13, 2005 | 08:19 PM

wolfbike1500

Senior User

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 149

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From: Lowell, MA

I had the same problem as allis327 to the letter. I used this stuff called "Extend"? (I think). It is a permatex product. It supposedly converts rust to a paintable surface. Well, I scraped the loose stuff off and sprayed this stuff on as directed. It seems to have worked. The rust has not come back. I have not painted it yet since it cannot be seen unless the door is open, so I can see very clearly that no rust has reformed. I recently got some Rust Bullet as recommended by other threads in this forum to use on my rusting rear diff cover. I really really hate f-ing rust....