Great thread guys, I don't do the programmer thing but this is really good info.

 

does the platinum fall under this?

 

No, only the KAM needs to be cleared.

 

Does the super chip have a setting to flash back to stock. Is that what you mean by flash it back to stock. Also you reflash it then remove battery or vice versa.

 

correct--good instructions were given on the 2nd page of this thread, but read them CAREFULLY as you could produce an electrical arc if you don't follow them exactly and to the letter---you could potentially fry your PCM too---did anyone mention this little fact???

 

bump--this is really an important thread

 

i am a service advisor at a merecedes benz dealer in western ny and i was talking to 2 of my techs here in my shop about touching the cables together and he advised not to reason being he said yes you are completing the circuit and yes it will drain power from system but you are creating a power surge and that produces heat and could damage those capacitors and blow out the units now mind you he said could he didnt say it would he just advised to disconnect batteries and let them drain they have only a short term power storage capacity and will lose there charge he didnt say for how long as he would be unsure without testing them

let me give you some background on my techs they are not just the run of the mill wrench type guys 1 guy has a masters degree in electronics and has been with mercedes 9yrs also he works for the airforce on aviation stuff the other guy has 12 yrs with benz and is reffered as the best benz repair tech probably in the country and that is not coming from me that is coming from are tac (tech assistance center) dept and we have are vet tech with 25 yrs togther they are the (A) team as i call them
these 3 techs last year where responsible for three repairs developed at our shop to fix electrical problems with our integrated radio telephone and tele aid system that mercedes tech specialist now use across the country sorry for the long winded post but when it comes to my techs they are nothing short of incredible sh?t the tech specialist in my area calls my guys at least 2 times a week for fixes on cars i better watch it that tech specialist is a big ford guy and might see this well if you do see this i am sure i will hear from you he loves his mustang bye for now

 

I just want to add that the steps listed in this thread will NOT clear all codes. The P1000 code will still be visible to a tech if the truck is taken in for service. This code states that the batteries have been disconnected. If you have SERIOUS problems, this could be a sign to FORD that you have evidence of a tuner (Or anything else they can throw at you for a void of warranty definse). There is a "Drive Cycle" that needs to be completed to clear this code. Maybe someone here can list the requirements of the Drive cylcle?

 

BTT

So If I read correct this wouldn't aply to Edge Attitude (with or with out ) Platinum because it is NOT a flash programmer but that when the unit is removed the P1000 code (drive cycle?) still needs to be rebuilt.?

Is that correct?

 

Any time the batts are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code untill the drive cycle is completed.

Basically you need to allow some miles so that the PCM will "re-learn" its adaptive technique. 15 miles of mixed driving *should* be enough in most cases.

As far as proving that you used a tuner based on the P1000 code, that'd be a really good feat. I don't condone the following, but, you could say that you were worried about the truck, so you decided to disconnect the batts to be safe.

I suppose that would look funny for a tranny issue.....

 

I suppose you could always jumper a 100 ohm resistor across the cables after they're unhooked instead of shorting them.........

 

rangerman has the situation pretty well covered here...yes, you will still get a P1000 code but for all practical purposes, this code is irrelevant.

 

Or better yet. Connect your digital or analog multimeter across the cables with the voltage set to 12 volts. If there is any charge left in the capacitors you should see some voltage level up to 12 volts followed immediately by a fairly quick drain. The internal resistance of the meter should be plenty to slow the current down enough to not damage anything. When the voltage reads zero you can pronounce the memory DEAD.

Besides it kind of feels like ER when they get a flat line on a patient

 

Coogan1, there is still a pretty good chance there are still codes from the Predator even after 6 months as long as the batteries have been connected. Before I took the chance at a dealer I would definitely disconnect and drain to reset.

 

Watching the voltage is a pretty good indicator of the sucess draining the caps, but the dvm won't hasten the process much - most dvms today have on the order of 1 Mhom input impedance - hence the 100 ohm suggestion. But, put the 100 ohm resistor on, AND the dvm to watch the voltage. Or, just let it sit a while...........