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Watching the voltage is a pretty good indicator of the sucess draining the caps, but the dvm won't hasten the process much - most dvms today have on the order of 1 Mhom input impedance - hence the 100 ohm suggestion. But, put the 100 ohm resistor on, AND the dvm to watch the voltage. Or, just let it sit a while...........
The cheap DVM that you are using might be only 1M ohm impedance. Quality meters are 10M ohm which obviously will take even longer to drain the caps.
The cheap DVM that you are using might be only 1M ohm impedance. Quality meters are 10M ohm which obviously will take even longer to drain the caps.
Use the resistor.
Yep, 1 Mohm is probably the minimum, and what many mechanics will be using. My "cheap " DVM is a Fluke 8060A, and my "good one" is a Hewlett Packard- and either one will set you back on the order of $300.00. And I do hate getting them greasy.....
I demod a superchip about 6 months ago. Truck was returned to stock except for the speed restriction, will draining all the power erase the speedo restriction or will I need to get a superchip and put my speed setting back to stock? By the way what is stock on the speedo setting?
OK, I am preparing to take in my 2005 F250 for 30k checkout.
I downloaded stock program twice. Then disconnected the negative leads (hood and dome lights went out) and touched each lead to positive. Within a couple of minutes, all was restored. This should clear PCM memory right, but why did the radio station presets remain in memory if all power was drained? Am I clean?
OK, I am preparing to take in my 2005 F250 for 30k checkout.
I downloaded stock program twice. Then disconnected the negative leads (hood and dome lights went out) and touched each lead to positive. Within a couple of minutes, all was restored. This should clear PCM memory right, but why did the radio station presets remain in memory if all power was drained? Am I clean?
I don't know the answer to that one Ford-Red. Did you leave the cables disconnected for at least 15 minutes? Also, why did you touch all leads to positive? That does not make sense to me. Am I missing something?
This is great stuff. I read this from start to finish and it has some of the best "REAL" info collected into one thread. Somebody should purge this down by eliminating the duplicate questions and put it somewhere as a reference.
Just a tip though, if you are a 2006 or newer Dodge owner do not try to clean any of main ECM memory. It will really screw up the truck. There is a VIN recognition program that cycles between the ECM, TCM and the ABS controller that if interupted requires a complete reflash. The truck will throw the key immobilizer code (P513) and die!
Last edited by RanchRodsTX; Sep 13, 2006 at 09:11 AM.
Just a tip though, if you are a 2006 or newer Dodge owner do not try to clean any of main ECM memory. It will really screw up the truck. There is a VIN recognition program that cycles between the ECM, TCM and the ABS controller that if interupted requires a complete reflash. The truck will throw the key immobilizer code (P513) and die!
You might want to post that on some dodge site as DILLIGAF?
I don't know the answer to that one Ford-Red. Did you leave the cables disconnected for at least 15 minutes? Also, why did you touch all leads to positive? That does not make sense to me. Am I missing something?
I think that the touching the ground leads to the positive leads (after disconnecting from battery!) is intended to hasten the discharge of any capacitors that might be across the 12 volt inputs to the various devices.
Hey to all, I'm new around here, but I have already learned alot. I have a 2003 F-350, 6.0 wandering if anyone has any suggestions on a programmer or a chip that works well with this engine. I have already installed a 4" turbo back and would like to feed it a little better now. Thanks... PM's are welcomed
Keep searching around on this this site and you will find enough information that you will never be able to sort it out
There is a lot of debate on whether or not to add a tuner to these 6.0 liter PSD engines due to a lot of problems with Ford trying and in some cases succeeding to void your 100k mile warranty.
Every one has an opinion and this forum is the place to express them. My opinion is I would LOVE to have a tuner on my 06 so I could smoke almost anything from red light to red light. HOWEVER, the fact is my truck is completely stock and pulls my 20' enclosed trailer full of toys with no problem whatsoever. I can accelerate to over 80mph up the steepest mountains in NC fully loaded. Soooo I am having a hard time justifying the risk of damaging a very complicated and expensive engine and voiding my valuable 100k warranty.
I have 18k miles on mine now and knock on wood, not a hiccup. You can read and hear of many stories of turbo, injector, head gaskets, oil leaks and so on. From my reading threads on here and other sites, I can say pretty certain that the majority, but not all of course, of these trucks with some of these problems has been running performance tuners or chips.
My friend has an 06 with about 12k miles on it and is completely stock and his turbo was just replaced. I know he has never had tuner and Ford gave him absolutely no grief in replacing the turbo. I also know of another guy that bought a 6.0 litre PSD used, installed a Bullydog package and even disabled the rev limiter. I think it was turning about 4200 when it let go. Last I heard Ford was fixing it under warranty??? I know this makes no sense but it seems to have a lot to do with the dealer you are working with. I have read and heard of other dealers voiding warranties just for having an after market cold air intake.
My son-in-law works at a Ford dealer and sold me my truck. They install only Superchip tuners but stress to only run it on economy or tow safe mode to avoid potential problems. Without a doubt on performance mode your dually will smoke the back tires and run like a stallion. But are you willing to take the risk associated with this?
If you do I would recommend you also install a post turbo EGT and make darn sure you keep it under safe temps.
I have read a lot on these forums the last year and this is just my middle of the road summary.
Good Luck with whichever way you go but my vote would be Superchip Flashpaq.