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How do I install an ARP Oil Pump Shaft? How far down does the retaining clip go on the ARP oil pump shaft? I see the arrow pointing up...so I know that the "pointed" end goes up to the dizzy, but just not sure where that retaining clip fits. I want to make sure the oil pump shaft engages the oil pump???
I am installing a new dizzy...and figured I would upgrade the oil pump shaft.
As far as I know the oil pan, oil pump need to be removed and thats how you installed the shaft. That clip keeps you from pulling out the shaft when you pull the dizzy out. Right off the top of my head, the clip should be about 3/4 or an inch down.
Now...how do I get the dizzy to seat all the way down??? I have it in and can feel the gear drive engage...but will not go all the way down...
Thanks!
biz
Hi Guys,
I read in one of my manuals that "if" the cam gear is engaged with the cam, then it is ok to crank the engine...and while the engine is cranking...someone rotate the dizzy so that it seats all the way down. Anyone ever done it that way?
Then...the engine needs to be cranked back into the original place before dizzy removal.
I would rather pull dizzy and install the "pre-oiler" dizzy that has the gear teeth ground off, turn the pump drive 1/12 of a turn and try it again. Or use a socket and breaker bar to turn the crank by hand, drop in then go back to your inital timing and set dizzy before starting. With a 13 qt pan, windage tray and two gaskets I just install the shaft from the top as the motor must be pulled otherwise.
.....=o&o>.....
just leave the clip off if you are installing it form up top. yes you can use the starter trick to set it but just a little at a time most just require a half second of the starter for the dizzy to seat right.
I've often done the screwdriver trick to the solenoid while holding the dizzy to make it seat
While I'm already standing on the bumper, it's easier to find something metal to short the solenoid "start" to +12 than it is to get down and find the slightly modified socket I have just for FE oil pump shafts ...
Many many people do not know what that clip is for and never install it - plenty of oil pump shafts out there still pumping oil ...
I hate messing with the dizzy and oil pump shaft, I never get that sob to line up the first time. One time I think I had 45 minutes in getting it right. I also have the arp shaft, I am sursprised that is fits from the top. The shaft body looks as thick or wider than the "hole". I had the engine apart so, I installed it before the oil pump. BTW, i don't think highly of my elgin HV oil pump. Its a $60 piece of crap as far as I'm concerned.
Yesterday when I reinstalled my dizzy I put some assy lube on the hex socket end of the shaft. It didn't go right in but I took it back out and tweaked the oil pump shaft a little with a Craftsman 1/4" nut driver and it fell right in.
This may be, "what not to do", but it worked for me. When I pulled the dizzy out I heard that horrible clang sound of the shaft falling into the pan. Well it sorta wedged between the crank and pan. I got lucky and fished it out with a magnet. I put the dizzy upside down in the vise and used black silicone to glue the shaft to the dizzy. Drove it like that for a year. When I tore the motor down for a rebuild the shaft was still glued to the dizzy.
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XFM...
Ok...guys...FTE is the BEST! I read all of your suggestions...and then choose to get my big 1/2" ratchet and socket and go the manual crank method from the top (electric fan setup...plenty of room). I was starting to give up hope when at about 3/4" of a full rotation...the dizzy finally had a FULL seat! Of course, then I cranked it back into the "pre-rotation" position so the rotor lined up with the mark (more or less).
Have not fired it up...and checked timing. Had so many other little "needs"...that time did not allow.
OBTW...this was an install for a D.U.I. system. Lots and lots of wiring...that either needed to be replaced (all cracked)...or just needed removing. Looks pretty neat and weird at the same time. Lets see how it works...
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