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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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Smile Plugging off emissions

If I can't find the parts to fix my emissions (bi-metal valve, cold weather sensor, etc...), and I decide to cap things off, what all must I cap off? I'm guessing EGR valve to start. I have the simple emissions system with no computer. If I cap things off, will the PCV valve still work? What about the Thermal Vacuum Switch? My TVS is a four-port type. What all does the TVS control? I unplugged it and started the vehicle. It does not seem to control my temperature guage which is a plus.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 09:11 PM
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what year is your vehicle?
 
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Old Sep 30, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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Sorry! It's a 1983 with 300 IL 6 cylinder. Runs great. Only thing so far, the damper in the breather does not open. When I put a vacuum source on the vacuum motor, it closes. Guessing the problem is the bi-metal vacuum valve or the Thermal Vacuum Switch (?). I want to get things working if I can. If I can't, I'm guessing it's best to plug things off all together rather than have some things working and some things not.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 03:16 AM
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a guy i know has done a lot of work with his 300-6, i will talk to him and see what he says and get back to you. as for me...... have you thought about doing an intake and carb swap? i have an '85 bronco that had a stock single barrel on it and all the EGR stuff. i just got done doing my own swap out to a four barrel, and WOW what a difference it made. the whole thing cost around $600 or so, just a thought and it got rid of that EGR stuff all together
 
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:08 AM
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Don't really want to sink a bunch of money into the truck for what I use it for. I only paid $1000 for the truck. If I can fix the minor thinkd fairly cheaply and have them all working properly, I would like to do so. Otherwise, I'll probably plug things off. Thanks for the info. though.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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Not able to find a bi-metal vacuum valver from a parts store, I called the dealer. They stated that it was a discontinued item. The price, if the item were available, $127.00. I was expecting to pay $4-$12. Looks like I will be plugging things off. Will the PCV valve still work? It seems to me that there was a vacuum line running to it.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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do you know if it is a feedback carb.? is it all stock? single barrel?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 12:43 AM
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It seems to be a stock carb, everything original on it. I believe it is a single barrel carb.
I took a break from work and while at home, I checked things out. The vac lines going to the PCV valve and the distributor advance seem to come directly from the carb.
Plugging things off would seem to entail: removing air pump and plugging off orifice where it goes to the carb. After that, removing the vac lines coming from the Thermal Vacuum Switch (four of them). Two lines run to the Cold Weather Modulator in the breather. Two go to the carb. Remove or plug off the TVS. Plug off the EGR valve. Where can I get an EGR block-off plate?
This is one of the really early and simple emissions systems. Will capping things off affect performance or MPG?
 

Last edited by OzarksFord; Oct 2, 2005 at 12:51 AM. Reason: More info.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 03:07 AM
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plugging things could screw up the TFI module (computer) i,m not positive about that but it may mess things up. i am sorry that no one else is giving input on this that know more than i, however the only thing that i can think of is to try it. make sure that you KEEP and LABEL EVERYTHING that you pull off that way if it dose mess anything up you can put it back the same way. please post up and let me know if it works, good luck
 
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 06:45 AM
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I think that little sensor in your breather is available from LMC trucks. I dont think you have a TFI module to worry about.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by OzarksFord
I took a break from work and while at home, I checked things out. The vac lines going to the PCV valve and the distributor advance seem to come directly from the carb.
Yes, thats true even of an aftermarket setup

Originally Posted by ozarksford
Plugging things off would seem to entail: removing air pump and plugging off orifice where it goes to the carb.
Your air pump probably only functions to pump air into the cats, for heat, more oxygen equals a more complete burn, but if it is connected to the EGR system as well, sure that would work, you also have to deal with the exhaust line that comes out of the bottom of your exhaust manifold and into the EGR system

Originally Posted by ozarksford
After that, removing the vac lines coming from the Thermal Vacuum Switch (four of them). Two lines run to the Cold Weather Modulator in the breather. Two go to the carb. Remove or plug off the TVS.
Thats all unnecessary if you just eliminate the vaccum in the first place by plugging it at the Carb, but I guess would work either way

Originally Posted by ozarksford
Plug off the EGR valve. Where can I get an EGR block-off plate?
This is one of the really early and simple emissions systems. Will capping things off affect performance or MPG?
Dont have much input on that one, quite frankly the best way to do this is to do as Mark-I6 suggested and buy an aftermarket intake, or if you wanna do it on the cheap, grab an early stock setup from your local pick and pull and have the carb rebuilt, that would eliminate everything except the carb and intake, vacuum for the Transmission (if automatic) vacuum for the brakes, vaccum for the Dizzy, and perhaps vacuum for the heater controls. There just isnt anyway to do these kinds of things cheaply, I personally wouldnt want all the clutter, weight, and useless crud in my engine compartment....

good luck, hope it works out for you
 

Last edited by Icicle; Oct 2, 2005 at 07:17 AM.
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