DPFE voltage testing
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/RangerPictureGallery/DPFE-Voltage-Test.html
Also, on the EGR vacuum regulator valve, I get an ohm reading of 33 ohms (cold) which seems about right based on info found within this forum and elsewhere. When applying power to the regulator, I get an amp draw of .36 amps. Can anyone confirm this to be accurate?
I'm dealing with the P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected issue. The truck has 140K miles on it. I've yet to find any carbon build up in any tubes, hoses, or ports. I've replaced the EGR valve and questionable vacuum hoses. I can clear the check engine light by disconnecting the battery but it comes back on after 20 or so minutes of driving
Thanks in advance for the help. You guys have a very informative forum going here.
Last edited by _Mike_; Sep 26, 2005 at 12:49 PM.
The DPFE sensor testing article I put together is a conglomeration of information that I have gotton from a lot of different credible sources. An excellent, detailed explanation of the Ford DPFE/EGR system can be found in the following tech articles:
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt34.pdf
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt35.pdf
http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt36.pdf
As you can see, I got a lot of the stuff for my own article from the above-referenced sources. If you notice some descrepencies in the numbers between the above articles and my own, it's because I have relied upon other sources, such as the Ford Manual, Ford Technicians, etc.
In any case, the point is that, the articles above contain some further testing techniques that can be performed on the Ford DPFE/EGR system which go beyond voltage testing the DPFE sensor. For example, you might look into the tests that can be performed on the EVR.
Hope this helps, good luck with the troubleshooting.
The DPFW sensor voltage was low and the intake port would not hold a vacuum for more than 20 or so seconds. However, I did a vacuum check on the new sensor before installing it and it would not hold a vacuum either; reaction time was about the same as the old one.
But the check engine light is out and that's all that really matters. Thanks for the help on this problem.
Now it's time to research the airbag clock spring issue.
You shouldn't have EGR at idle, so you shouldn't have vacuum on it's hose connection then, so maybe suspect the EGR's computer controlled vacuum switching valve.
If it's sticking or leaking & applying vacuum to the EGR valves diaphragm & causing the EGR valve to open & apply EGR at the wrong time, it can cause idle problems.
If that isn't it, you might try the F-150 forum on this site, bet the guys there would have a handle on your problem.









