Condenser Failure '63 223
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New User
Joined: Sep 2005
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Condenser Failure '63 223
Hello All:
I am a new to this group and have a quick question. I have a stock 63 F100 with a 223. The problem I have is habitual ignition condenser failure. The truck will run fine then just die. If I change the condenser, all is well for a few hours, days or months, then it dies again.
Would the wrong ignition coil cause this problem? The coil is the only thing I have replaced since owning the truck. The wiring harness is stock and I only have one wire leading from the firewall to the coil.
Thank you very much.
David U.
I am a new to this group and have a quick question. I have a stock 63 F100 with a 223. The problem I have is habitual ignition condenser failure. The truck will run fine then just die. If I change the condenser, all is well for a few hours, days or months, then it dies again.
Would the wrong ignition coil cause this problem? The coil is the only thing I have replaced since owning the truck. The wiring harness is stock and I only have one wire leading from the firewall to the coil.
Thank you very much.
David U.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by duhrbroc
Hello All:
I am a new to this group and have a quick question. I have a stock 63 F100 with a 223. The problem I have is habitual ignition condenser failure. The truck will run fine then just die. If I change the condenser, all is well for a few hours, days or months, then it dies again.
Would the wrong ignition coil cause this problem? The coil is the only thing I have replaced since owning the truck. The wiring harness is stock and I only have one wire leading from the firewall to the coil.
Thank you very much.
David U.
I am a new to this group and have a quick question. I have a stock 63 F100 with a 223. The problem I have is habitual ignition condenser failure. The truck will run fine then just die. If I change the condenser, all is well for a few hours, days or months, then it dies again.
Would the wrong ignition coil cause this problem? The coil is the only thing I have replaced since owning the truck. The wiring harness is stock and I only have one wire leading from the firewall to the coil.
Thank you very much.
David U.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 169
Likes: 16
From: Hesperia CA
I'm not on solid ground here but I think you've got a bad resistor in your ignition circuit. The points and condenser only use your actual 12v when starting. That gets supplied thru the starter solenoid while you're running the starter. Once the engine is running and the solenoid falls out the ignition should be supplied via the key thru a resistor somewhere that drops the voltage to a level the ignition can handle all day.
My Dad had a lesson on this with a mid-80's Dodge. It kept burning up one module after another until he finally got pissed and put a Mallory dual point in it. THAT's when he found the resistor had shorted out.
All this is hypothetical tho. I could be wrong. Happens all the time!
My Dad had a lesson on this with a mid-80's Dodge. It kept burning up one module after another until he finally got pissed and put a Mallory dual point in it. THAT's when he found the resistor had shorted out.
All this is hypothetical tho. I could be wrong. Happens all the time!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
The resistor pntrbil refers to is a resistor wire in the ignition run circuit. This wire is pink and drops battery voltage to around 6v at the points with the engine running. The brown wire from the starter relay "I" terminal provides 12v for starting only. You may have the wrong coil. Does the coil get really hot during normal use? It is odd that the condenser fails? Check the ground in the distributor and the ground strap between the engine block and the firewall. If you can spend a few extra bucks, buy a Pertronix Ignitor II and use their coil. You will only need to bypass the pink resistor wire and then you can forget about ignition failures for the next ten years.
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Thanks for all the help. I think I will go with the Pertronix option. I just need to figure out if I have a Motorcraft or Holley distributor.
Another quick question, I only have one wire connecting to the positive terminal on the coil - the wire from the ignition switch. I don't have a wire from the starter relay to the coil. Is this normal? Should I be using a resistor coil?
Thanks again.
Another quick question, I only have one wire connecting to the positive terminal on the coil - the wire from the ignition switch. I don't have a wire from the starter relay to the coil. Is this normal? Should I be using a resistor coil?
Thanks again.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Writing on your coil will indicate whether it is internally resisted or not. Points coils are usually not internally resisted. A wire should run from the "I" terminal on the starter relay to the + post on the coil. This provides 12v for starting. You do not need this wire with Pertronix but I run it anyway just to be sure I have 12v at the coil during start up. You should measure your voltage at the + post on the coil with the ignition key on. The reading should be + or - 6v with points ignition and 12v for Pertronix. You can also switch your six cylinder over to the later Ford Duraspark system for little money. Your choice and others here will help with information on this swap. Pertronix is great unless you need parts on Sunday. Ford on the other hand is fixable anyday anywhere.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,061
Likes: 167
From: Central Texas
Ditch the points and go the Duraspark route. It is an easy swap and works fantastically. Plus it's all Ford stuff.
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