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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 01:44 PM
  #1  
teg3's Avatar
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From: colorado
Any Ideas about ball joint

I just had to replace a brand new balljoint because it detached from the spindle the bolt came off and of course everything else colapsed.Anyway
after examineing the old joint it appears the integrity of the groves where
flattened to the point the bolt would no longer hold.This occured on the lower portion only not the upper.Any idea what would cause this ?.I am deathly affraid itwill happen again except this time at high speed.The allignment was good all steering seems stable.. thanks.

Poorly made bad metal ?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 02:15 PM
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I just read about the same thing on this forum. try doing a search. as yet I don't believe a cause was determined, but hearing about it twice makes you wonder
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 02:19 PM
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never mind, it was your post I read, teg3
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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I just rechecked it..It seems to turn with the wheel and the coter pin is above the bolt instead of the middle maybe to tight..?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 02:40 PM
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hmm...that doesn't seem right. you do mean the cotter pin is above the "castle" part of the nut? or not through the hole? I thought there was a torque spec for the ball joints.
I cornfused.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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there is a torque I forget right off 80 I think.Yes the pin is above the castle.How I could tell it was moving the head was facing me now the tail end faces me.But I put marking paint to see if it moves and so far no.I readjusted the the nut to accomidate
the pin.And so far no turning.I don,t understand why it turns at all.

thanks
 
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Old Sep 21, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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me either, that makes no sense. but the aero is a strange gal. the proper torque shouldn't have put the castle below the pin...this almost sounds like unusual wear or possibly the wrong ball joint replacement part? was there anything unusual about the taper, either on the control arm or the old joint?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:58 AM
  #8  
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Just a thought. Are you using the right part? Have front end parts like spindles etc. changed over the years? Is there a difference between the 3.0 and 4.0, short or extended? It wouldn't make sense to change them for different models, but then again I've seen things that don't make sense before. Could a previous owner have installed some non compliant parts?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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The new balljoint does seem diff.from the old one but I think its bacuse of a newer part.The pin is above the castle and slightly moves now its as though the joint and spindle is moving everytime you turn the wheel..the nut wants to loosen..
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 02:15 PM
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sounds like the wrong part man. The castle can necessitate a little movement once you get the torque set (the castle prongs or whatever they're called cna get in the way of the hole in the bolt for the pin) but what you're talking about shouldn't be possible with the new part. check it against the other side if you can.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 02:31 PM
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ok will do compare with the other part.So a little play is normal but not extreme ?I am just super sesative over this..because she detached after 30 days and well the frount control arm droped it was a mess...It is fixed now..thanks.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by teg3
I readjusted the the nut to accomidate
the pin.And so far no turning.I don,t understand why it turns at all.
As the pin was above the nut, I assume that you had to loosen the nut to get the pin to fit.
The rule with castellated nut and cotter pin fasteners is that if the pin does not align when the nut has been tightened to the specified torque you further tighten the nut the minimum amount to allow the pin to fit.

A previous poster suggested looking for unusual wear. The tapered hole may have been enlarged by the old part wobbling around in it, possibly because whoever fiitted it unscrewed the nut so the pin would fit.

Originally Posted by teg3
So a little play is normal but not extreme ?
If its fitted correctly it should be rock solid and there should be no play at all in that tapered seating. If there is any free play it will enlarge the hole.

Jan Richter
 
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Old Sep 22, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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Ball joints are differnet between the AWD and RWD models (and I think between the 3.0 and 4.0 also.)

Auto parts stores are notorious for giving you a part that they think might work because it will work in the other model. I have a feeling that they have been giving you the wrong ball joint, which is causing all these issues. (and have been mentioned here.)
 
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Old Sep 23, 2005 | 04:09 AM
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parts store counter switcheroo

several different model parts in boxes brought out searching for correct one and comparing to old part.
correct part found
but boxes and remaining parts switched.
wrong part in wrong box for next customer that buys by part number only.

new ball joints have to always fit tight in press in fittings and taper fittings

remember the old king pins? at least when they were loose, they wouldn't kill the driver/passengers unless they fell out.
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Sep 23, 2005 at 04:13 AM.
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