Slappers were the "traction bars" that bolted on the bottom of the leaf springs to keep the springs from winding up, they would "slap" against the bottom of the leat spring, stiffening the spring. Don't really see them around much any more.

 

They are usually only available for car(axle over leaf) set ups. With the truck axle being under the leaf, you would need to fab a special set.

I've seen a truck version which bolts to top of spring plate, then extends forward and bolts to frame plate. Gives spring stability and keeps from wrapping up under accel.

 

how could a person go about making these for my truck which will have 3in blocks

 

I'd avoid the blocks if at all possible. There are ladder bar setups you can buy, but they are kinda pricey, and limit articulation off road.

 

from what I've seen you don't need to tub it, you can fit a wide enough tire in the stock fender wells, unless you're going for the pro street look.

I've thought about grafting this suspension into my '70 as it seems like a good design.

 

I used to work the heck out of a 68 1/2 ton with the coil style rear, and an added bonus was that if the carrier blew, which they had a tendency to, the driveshaft was still contained. I had a 3/4 that had the coil rear as well, wouldn't be too hard to refit another rear to it, and the control arms are available repro as well.

 

You could try using this thing I;ve seen off roaders using more frequently. Its the Wrap Trap on this web site

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/36.asp

A center mounted traction bar that helps with axle wrap. I've seen them in use off road and they move parrallel to your drive shaft so they allow full articulation. Would also work with moving your springs in board as well. Good price too

 

If you do want to move the leafs to the inside of the frame you may want to
take a look in my gallery I have installed the leafs inboard on a 77 f-100 and a
65 f-100 and they work very good and drove the 77 f-100 every day to and
from work and also on long trips.







P.S when you are done the stock mounts are still where they came, in case
you want to put it back, or if you haul a lot of heavy stuff you could
run two sets of leafs, one set where they came stock,and one set inboard,
but it is a stiff ride, I have drove it this way!



Play by Play/Tech
Moving the Leaf's for Pro-Street
--------------------------------------
Locate a donor truck of the approximate year. If you can get it to your shop/house
life will be easier. You can cut it up a little at a time and you can use the scrap. Although
to be able to cut the parts you need and leave the mess at the other location is very nice.
Cut the Frame 5 to 6 inches each side of the leaf hangers on donor truck. I got a 64 frame
gave to me and I didnt notice until I had my frame parts cut and fitted that the front leaf
spring hangers (from the 64 frame) they sit about 3 inches higher than the origanal 65 truck
which in turn should lower the truck some. The way I fit and bolt these frame parts up with
the old mounts still in place, Take leaf pad/pearch and sit them in place. Bolt the extra leafs
that you get (from Donor truck) up to frame parts. I measure off the 65 leafs in about 6 places
to make sure they stay parallel to each other. At the front hangers there are two (2) chassie
gussets one each side (they look like braces) under the crossmember that appear to be in the
way, Take a side grinder and grind the rivets to the gussets ONLY not the crossmember.
If your thinking the removal of the gussets may weaken the frame well you can add braces
at the front edge of the frame parts that you are adding. On my 65 I took and added a rear
crossmember from a 76 frame. It is bolted to the front edge of the frame parts and welded.
The corner bracket that bolts it in is cut from scrape frame. I used grade 8 bolts, The more
I sat there looking at the 65 frame the more ideas I came up with. I pulled the emergancy-brake
cables out of the crossmember and inserted a small 1/2 inch tubing and turn it around and around
to mark the holes in the 76 frame crossmember THAT I ADDED. Drill the holes in the
76 crossmember so your emergancy-brake cables can pass through it . Use a big Unibit and
you can add gromets to the holes. Your frame parts will require the top of it to be notched for
the crossmember. You can mark the width you need to cut, When you cut your frame parts. You
will have to cut across the crossmember of the DONOR truck. You will have to grind the rivets
out of the crossmember of Donor truck. I notched it deep enough for the frame parts to sit on
top of frame, bottom of frame parts sit inside on bottom of 65 frame. At this point you should
have the hangers where they are under the crossmember. You could MAKE and FIT your own
gussets.
Ok moving to the rear of the truck frame, The rear crossmember will have to move forward to
the edge of your rear frame parts. You will have to grind out the rivets (4 each side) I took
mine and cleaned it when putting it back in. Flip it backward (the back edge will but up to the
front of the frame parts) You can drill holes to mount the crossmember back in frame.
When you have everything bolted up and fitted right you will see that you will have to cut a
notch in the rear crossmember for each leaf spring to clear or the spring will hit the crossmember.
They can travel up and down if it would make you feel safer where you notch for them you can
box them. Be sure you dont mix up the rear crossmember. The 65 had a C5TE and the 64 C4TE/
If your leafspring bolts are in bad shape you can buy grade 8 at a hardware store. I have noticed
the stock ones are grade 5. Oh yeah your vent tube for the rearend will work out under the leaf
pad/pearch you have to grind a small amount on the leaf pad. It will work right where it is
or you could drill and tap a new one.
When you get everything fitted up and you have your extra set of leafs from your donor truck
bolted up after grinding and fitting dont take your old ones off until you welded your pearch/pads
in place and then you dont have to set your pinion angle (because it will stay the same)
I have left out that on the shock mounts I used ones that you buy to use
coil overs on the nine inch and at the top I made my own that go on the crossmember that
crosses right behind the rear end. They are in my gallery they are the blue ones and they
are made out of one rearend ubolt plate both ends cut off. I welded a piece of square tube
to that in the center and drilled 2 round holes to make them adjustable at the top. I am sure
you can come up with what ever you want


NOTE: Anytime dealing with suspension there is always a risk of not getting something right
and creating a danger to yourself and others. Make sure all your welds are strong and good
and that you use at least grade 8 bolts. procede at your own risk.
Have Fun Pro-Streeting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!

By wally womack