360 Rebuild advice needed
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New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 24
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From: Lanett, Alabama
360 Rebuild advice needed
Hey guys.
I have been reading your past posts and see that there is a wealth of knowledge here. I have a stock 360 in my 1970 F-100 that needs to be rebuild to stop an oil leak and improve drivablility. My question is should I simply rebuild the 360, saving and reusing as many parts as possible or should I try to replace the crank and/or pistons and upgrade to a 390?
This is a hobby truck and will be a weekend-work truck not a show, drag, or mud truck. Which engine would be best for fuel efficiency, light to medium towing, and highway driving? I want this to be a long lasting fix, so tell me what I need to do.
Thanks
I have been reading your past posts and see that there is a wealth of knowledge here. I have a stock 360 in my 1970 F-100 that needs to be rebuild to stop an oil leak and improve drivablility. My question is should I simply rebuild the 360, saving and reusing as many parts as possible or should I try to replace the crank and/or pistons and upgrade to a 390?
This is a hobby truck and will be a weekend-work truck not a show, drag, or mud truck. Which engine would be best for fuel efficiency, light to medium towing, and highway driving? I want this to be a long lasting fix, so tell me what I need to do.
Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
If you don't mind spending the money I would up to to the 390. I peplaced my 352 in my 66 4x4 and the gas mileage went up, engine had more HP and had to work less. I use a 67 GT Fairlane engine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
I'd go for the ever popular 390 build up.
Here's how I, personally, would build it for those priorities:
1. Silvolite #1130 pistons
2. Mr. Gasket .020" thick steel shim head gasket
3. Crane 343901 cam
4. Adjustable rocker arms and matching pushrods
5. Stock 390 bottom end (crank and rods) with ARP rod bolts
6. Stock type 4 barrel intake and 600cfm Holley. The junkyard is a good place to find 4 barrel FE intakes, and you probably know where to get a 600 Holley.
7. Headers. This is a must on FE's, as the stock exhaust manifolds are absolutely horrible.
8. Build the rest of the motor to stock specs.
Should be a good motor for what you're trying to do. Should improve gas mileage and power over what you're running now.
Here's how I, personally, would build it for those priorities:
1. Silvolite #1130 pistons
2. Mr. Gasket .020" thick steel shim head gasket
3. Crane 343901 cam
4. Adjustable rocker arms and matching pushrods
5. Stock 390 bottom end (crank and rods) with ARP rod bolts
6. Stock type 4 barrel intake and 600cfm Holley. The junkyard is a good place to find 4 barrel FE intakes, and you probably know where to get a 600 Holley.
7. Headers. This is a must on FE's, as the stock exhaust manifolds are absolutely horrible.
8. Build the rest of the motor to stock specs.
Should be a good motor for what you're trying to do. Should improve gas mileage and power over what you're running now.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
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From: Dudley, GA
http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/enginekits.html
If you are on a budget, check out Larry. Kits come with a crank so the 390 up grade is cheap. Call them direct, they never answer email.
As for gas mileage, if that is a real concern for you, you might want to look for a different engine like a 289/302/351.
If you are on a budget, check out Larry. Kits come with a crank so the 390 up grade is cheap. Call them direct, they never answer email.
As for gas mileage, if that is a real concern for you, you might want to look for a different engine like a 289/302/351.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,036
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From: NE Ga
Quality or Quantity?
Originally Posted by 71_4x4_390
http://www.larrysperformance.com/data/enginekits.html
If you are on a budget, check out Larry. Kits come with a crank so the 390 up grade is cheap. Call them direct, they never answer email.
As for gas mileage, if that is a real concern for you, you might want to look for a different engine like a 289/302/351.
If you are on a budget, check out Larry. Kits come with a crank so the 390 up grade is cheap. Call them direct, they never answer email.
As for gas mileage, if that is a real concern for you, you might want to look for a different engine like a 289/302/351.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Dudley, GA
I did my build with Larry. It is a stock kit, any upgrades increase price so talk to them. Don't order ANYTHING until you have your engine out and completely broken down. As for the cams, as far as I know they are the same. Spend the extra 30 bucks and get the 390 kit. The picture on the web site shows rods with the kit...NOT. That is the only thing it does not have. You CAN use the 360 rods with the 1.68" pistons if you are on a tight budget, verify the piston size when ordering. Keep in mind shipping is expensive, the crank is 68 lbs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,600
Likes: 4
From: Iowa
While you can use 360 rods in a 390, there are a few things you should be aware of. One, they are not as strong as 390 rods. If you rev it up above 5000rpm, they will tend to stretch. The other thing, is that you will have to get it balanced. Lastly, you'll still have fairly low compression building it this way. It will be higher than a stock 360 or 390, but still fairly low. Also, the quench distance (distance between the piston top and cylinder head) will be too far. What this does, is negate the effect of having a closed chamber like FE's do have. This means you'll have to run more timing. There were a lot of FE's built by Ford with low compression and too big a quench distance, so it's not a real show stopper on a street motor, but your motor will not be as efficient as it could be.
If it was me, I'd go to the junkyard and pull the crank and rods out of a 390. Then just get your rebuild kit.
If it was me, I'd go to the junkyard and pull the crank and rods out of a 390. Then just get your rebuild kit.
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