Bearings
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
Thanks everyone for your advice.
Ed, I can't repack them. This is for the front of the AWD van, so the entire bearing/hub comes as one non-serviceable unit. Why does Ford do it that way?
Ed, I can't repack them. This is for the front of the AWD van, so the entire bearing/hub comes as one non-serviceable unit. Why does Ford do it that way?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by copper_90680
Thanks everyone for your advice.
Ed, I can't repack them. This is for the front of the AWD van, so the entire bearing/hub comes as one non-serviceable unit. Why does Ford do it that way?
Ed, I can't repack them. This is for the front of the AWD van, so the entire bearing/hub comes as one non-serviceable unit. Why does Ford do it that way?
Oh, Copper, I understand with your particular Aerostar application. That is a good question, and one question answered I would love to see the "official" reason from an authorized Ford engineer. There must be a reason? If it's one of those "we can save $5 for every unit we install" (and the amount of corporate $ involved) then I will scream. LOL. I'll bet, if you or I wrote a letter to Ford Motor Company, asking them this question, I doubt we'd receive the answer. It would probably be a one sentence "form" response, in that many manufacturing companies won't answer, because it's an "in-house" trade secret. They don't want their competition to know these things, and I can assure you, Ford, GM & DaimlerChrysler are very guarded on these inquieries. Pure speculation on my part, but I'll bet I'm close to the answer here, Copper. Now if a Ford Engineer / Tech. posts an official answer here, I'll be the first to acknowledge it. Ed
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,177
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From: Mifflin, PA
Originally Posted by copper_90680
It's about time to replace the front bearing in my van. I saw so many manufacturers I'm confused. Among Timken, BCA, SKF, Dynapack, which one is the best? I don't want to do this too often, so I'd rather pay for a good set.Thanks
I agree on the Timken, also. Good Luck .....
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Postmaster
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From: Southern California
For a 2WD, the hub is part of the rotor. You need to remove the caliper and the axle nut. Then just pull the rotor straight out. To remove the axle nut, you must remove a cotter pin first, but all that is obvious once you looked at the thing.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: york pa
have removed rotor, bearing casing seems to be seized to the spindle axle, guess i may as well go to junkyard to get spindle, and new rotor?
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Postmaster
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From: Southern California
So the rotor came off, but the inner race of the bearing got stuck on the spindle, right? Can you borrow a three-jaw sliding impact puller from Autozone and bang it out?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
if puller will not remove bearing, split bearing cage with cold chisel....remove brake backing plate..use cold chisel cutting tip vertically and drive race off from back side with cold chisel against race only...race may be welded to spindle from spinning on spindle...not good...may be able to split race with large cold chisel and 5 lb hammer with support blocks under spindle...in desparate cases where no spindle replacement avail...some use cutting torch to almost cut thru race...then finish with chisel...smooth up with crocus cloth....don't heat spindle very much...removes metal temper and strength
when putting in new races...dimple the spindle for inner and outer race in center of race mount with 3 equ-spaced center punch marks with spindle steel raised by punch...locks race from turning.
when putting in new races...dimple the spindle for inner and outer race in center of race mount with 3 equ-spaced center punch marks with spindle steel raised by punch...locks race from turning.
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Oct 25, 2005 at 02:49 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: york pa
if puller will not remove bearing, split bearing cage with cold chisel....remove brake backing plate..use cold chisel cutting tip vertically and drive race off from back side with cold chisel against race only...race may be welded to spindle from spinning on spindle...not good...may be able to split race with large cold chisel and 5 lb hammer with support blocks under spindle...in desparate cases where no spindle replacement avail...some use cutting torch to almost cut thru race...then finish with chisel...smooth up with crocus cloth....don't heat spindle very much...removes metal temper and strength
when putting in new races...dimple the spindle for inner and outer race in center of race mount with 3 equ-spaced center punch marks with spindle steel raised by punch...locks race from turning.
sounds like some good infor....thanks, ..the sliver of race left is difficult to get a chisel on without, scoring the shaft/spindle up, but from what you're saying about punch marks maybe it doesn't matter?
when putting in new races...dimple the spindle for inner and outer race in center of race mount with 3 equ-spaced center punch marks with spindle steel raised by punch...locks race from turning.
sounds like some good infor....thanks, ..the sliver of race left is difficult to get a chisel on without, scoring the shaft/spindle up, but from what you're saying about punch marks maybe it doesn't matter?
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