still having this thing get warm , up to the "M in normal, then goes back slowly, especially when driving, instead of idle, i have replaced almost everything!, maybe this is ok? mech put in 192 degree thermostat,
thanks
John

 

Check you cooling fan to make sure it's spinning free especially when the engine is warmed up. I moved my fan shroud down a hair(looked like it was too high) and when it warmed up the fan expanded some and would hit it and stop spinning. Never really heardit hit, found it by accident, lol. Sounds crazy I know but it's worth a look.

 

good point, aerodude.
does it get warmer only when in traffic or just sitting still? if so it may be normal running temp. the temp will fluctuate in a normal running system.if you haven't checked already, the fan clutch might need some love, too.

 

192>195d thermostat is spec for newer rigs...improves fuel mileage and engine performance...
probably the viscious fan drive...how old...original?...not much of a way to test...but a common failure mode..will notice more idling and <35 mph city driving...at freeway speeds cooling is almost totally free air flow thru radiator....

also look at slipping fan belt...serpentine flat belt on later Aeros drive the fan/water pump via the flat side...will slip with no squeal...not good....check for any glazing...apply some belt no slip dressing to pulley and belt contact surface....if belt is old-replace...the serpentines break and it is ugly at high rpm..radiators damaged...hoses ripped...water pumps broken...belt is cheap compared to option 2...

may be failing coolant temp sensor to gauge...variable resistor in block fitting....no easy way to test intermittent failure...just a hair puller...cheap...less than $10....get the one for dash gauge...not the one for PCM engine temp tracking..

 

already replaced sensor, belts, heater core, heater hoses, fan clutch, does it mainly when idling,

 

Many radiator shops (those that actually remove and install them, new, or refurbished) can check your cooling system for flow. This way, you can determine if the coolant is having any restrictions in the radiator, block, or waterpump itself. Always use the correct high temp thermostat. Using a cooler 'stat will cause problems in any vehicle with emmision control, namely those that are fuel injected, have o2 sensor, and various other sensors related to engine and air temperature. Check around, because this kind of work, sometimes a knowledgeable "no frills" shop, with techs who actually are happy to work on customer's vehicles, do a better job than a fancy,schmancy "hi-tech" establishment (for lack of a better word), those busy shops who are so busy, they are "jack of all" work, sloppy, shoddy repairs when you get your vehicle back. (For example, have you ever taken your van to a shop, and the mechanic / owner calls you back a few days later, just to make sure "everything is okay, with the repairs done"... as compared to the trendy, tie wearing, service writer. Who writes up a work order, then when he sees you an hour later, does not even remember your face, your car, or what service is being done to your car / van, that you just dropped off).

 

is the varing temp reading a recent change? are you getting any boil over? any bubbling in rad. fill neck when up to temp? any oily residue in fill neck? any odor of engine overheating? what mix of antifreeze/water....50%?
my 96 4L does show a slow variation from N to M on hot summer days in city stop and go traffic w AC on...steady temp reading on the highway.

 

yep, thanks all, i will check the other things you listed, it was flushed before putting in heater core ,prob not with machine though

 

Rusty, Good luck with the temp-problem. I have a 1995 3.0L Aerostar with cooling troubles beyond what you've got, unfortuneately.

My wife called with all the kids in the car (coming back from a fair), and said the 95' aerostar was "steaming". Hmmm. Well, this is never a good scenario with all the kids involved. So, I grabbed a couple of gallon jugs of H20, a small tool kit, and headed off to trade cars (giving her my 92' Peugeot 505 DL [station wagon]), and try to see what caused the problem.

Well, I MISSED the cracked TOP radiator hose (amazing oversight), and filled the car with water, thinking that I'd remedied the problem. (haha). After about 10 minutes on the freeway at about 60mph, it looked like a "so far, so good". Then, after pulling off the Interstate, and making a few traffic stops, it started steaming again. Only a couple of blocks away from home (I thought), so maybe I can watch the temp gauge
and see if I can "milk" it home (another bad idea). So, I ease back on the power, and luckily make it home, however, not before it starts steaming inside the car through the defrost vents. So I pull into the driveway, shut down, and get the hose. Interestingly, the TEMP gauge never went above 1/2 way up - never got high at all.

However...after getting the water hose going and adding water THROUGH a 4-6" slit in the upper radiator hose (above the water pump), I rinsed the cooling system thoroughly and backwashed it the other way. The engine was shutdown. Enough for one day.

So here's my question to you folks who're all shaking your heads in disblief (I'm sure). (1) Since the TEMP gauge never moved above 1/2 way, what is this telling me? I would assume that this means my thermostat is malfunctioning? However, I do not know. (2) Is there any chance that simple replacement of the upper water hose and the thermostat would remedy the problem? or (3) Do you suspect that the water pump caused the entire overheating problem, or - could a failed water pump cause the upper radiator hose to overheat, then fatigue & fail (i.e., the slit), or would the radiator hose problem be more related to the thermostat? OR...(4) should I simply replace the water pump, the thermostat, and all the hoses, and naturally flush the system?

Thanks for any help or recommendations from you folks. The last "save" ya'll helped me with was fixing my transmission when the MODULATOR valve had failed, and was "pumping tranny" fluid back into the engine lubrication oil - wacky stuff. But, that problem is solved...now, I'm dealing with this cooling problem.

Thanks to all who might know how to attack this cooling problem.

Tim

 

my 90 3.0 does this once in a while
i think it is the head gaskets
what was told to me is that when some exhaust gasses go into
the cooling system the gasses wind up by the temp sender causing
it to raise up the temp on the guage, then when the coolant hits it
the temp goes back down. they say this is common on fords. mine is
still running on bars leak. head gaskets are in the future.

 

Thanks for the reply, Lasher. Man...head gasket...ugh. I've actually
tried the K & N treatment about a year ago. I wasn't sure that was the
problem - then, but I flushed it, and applied the "stuff", let it dry, then
refilled it...hoping that maybe, just maybe that was NOT the problem.
But, what would explain the bursted top radiator hose? And would you
automatically rule-out the thermostat? And rule out a bad water pump?
I realize that you're probably right, but I'm just curious. Thanks! Tim

 

when you get all those exhaust gasses coming out of the engine it does want to burst the top radiator hose and top tank of radiator
if your heater works good the water pump is probably good.
i tryed a new thermostat on mine and it made no difference.
if you put some pelllet bars leak in your system and the problem gets better
you ll know, headgaskets.
thats whats going on with mine.

 

Alright, well here's one more question...is there any chance that the thermostat was simply failed and locked closed? Could that possibly be a contributing factor? Or is it simply the head gasket? Thanks again, Tim

 

if the thermostat was locked closed you would boil over and your temp gauge would have went all the way to hot and it would never cool back down as you drive on as it does.

 

how old, how many miles on hoses, thermostat, radiator pressure cap and coolant?