When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to be replacing the front bearing(s) on my '02 4X4 Escape and I wonder...
1. I'm buying the hub/bearing kit and not just the bearing. Can the retainer clip be fished out of the steering knuckle so the old hub and bearing can be removed in one shot?
2. I've seen people reporting failed installations so I'm guessing they might have hammered the bearing into place... Is it true that the bearings can be damaged by lateral force during installation? If true, the bearing must be installed by pressing ONLY on the bearing chase being pressed (inner for hub, outer for knuckle).
No they get rusted in place imo. I unbolt the axle nut. 2 bolts on top off spindle pull down and pull out the axle.Some times easier to turn the wheel to full lock.Reinstall the 2 bolts and take a big slide hammer and attach to the hub. pull it out.Pull out the clip. Then turn to full lock and take a piece of round stock and a big hammer and pound the old bearing out. take a wire wheel clean up the hub. I have threaded rod and washers I made that are the size of bearing and larger to draw the bearing in.then the smaller one to draw the hub in if you try to just push it in it will push part of bearing out. Also put the new parts in the freezer over night to shrink them down they will go in easier.
Rats. I was hoping for a shortcut considering I'm replacing the hub too.
To be sure, the retainer clip goes in the knuckle on the hub side, not the axle side? The few instructions I've found online are a bit vague but I do understand the jist of the work to be done.
Yes its on the hub side. You put new bearing in then the clip. Then the hub.And the hub is locked in by the axle shaft nut. My first one took about 3 hrs from start to finish,now about 1 1/2 hours.
I was able to do mine, but didn't have the washers and such like used above. I ended up removing the steering knuckle and pressing them in/out. I made a platform out of 2X10's stood on end tall enough to use my 12 ton Hydraulic jack against the I-beam in my basement. My bearing came out in pieces. Literally.
The outer race had fractured and failed. Not sure how long, but the bearings were dry and the fracture that went all the way around the bearing was full of dried up grease. Maybe it micro fractured during the installation prior to the vehicle being assembled... Don't know. It was quite convenient though... I had perfect pieces to provide support on the new bearing as I pressed against the inner and outer portions of the bearing.
...still a huge fan of the old wheel bearings with a castle nut... Much easier back then and you could clean and lube them periodically.
What are the symptoms of a wheels bearing? My Tribute has been making a 'pulsating' sound from about 25mph - 65ish. I thought it was going to be the failed inner tie rod making the tire wobble, but after replacement the sound is still there. I also rotated tires and it also did it with the last set. I do not have any left/right or up/down movement in the wheel.
Mine made a grinding type sound when turning, mainly to the right. Leaning out the opened drivers side window I could hear the noise coming from the front wheel.
For those who might not know the left/right'up/down test:
If you position a jack under the control arm and jack the wheel until it's just off the ground, you can grasp the rim on the top and bottom and "wiggle" the wheel top in - bottom out and visa versa and feel for any sort of slack in the bearings.
NOTE: NEVER PUT YOUR HAND BETWEEN THE TIRE AND THE GROUND WHEN DOING THIS. GRAB ONLY BY THE RIM OR A PORTION OF THE TIRE WHERE YOUR HAND WILL NOT BE TRAPPED IF THE JACK SLIPS AND THE VEHICLE WHEEL RETURNS TO THE GROUND UNEXPECTEDLY. A much safer method is to use jack stands.
Scott91370 - does the sound change with left/right steering wheel movement or with changes to throttle at speed?
It gets faster as speed increases. It seems to be a little better since the replacement tie rod but not gone.
I will check the left right turning tomorrow. At slow speed I haven't noticed it either way but as soon as I check it I will report back.
Tight circles left and right both forward and reverse.
Just curious... have you had the wheels balanced, and did the technician inspect the wheel for internal failure like a slipped or failing belt? ANY deviation in the tire's tread while spinning can cause noises or a wobble. Also, how worn are the tires? I've been using Goodyear Assurance Fuel Savers on mine and I've noticed they get loud as the tread nears the end of it's life. whatever brand you are using may do the same.
Last edited by got2bjoester; Dec 16, 2015 at 05:55 AM.
Reason: Trying to get rid of those annoying hotlinks.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.