Big problem with overheating
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
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From: mesa AZ
Big problem with overheating
Ok guys this ones got me I just put a remaned 400m in my truck everything is new or upgraded I got a new stat 185 new hoses 4core heavy duty radiator a big fin water pump fixed blade 20in cooling fan and fan shroud timing is on and its runing a little rich I also stuck on a 400egr intake from edlbrock the block is punched 60 over and also has a hi volume oil pump accel coil new brass cap and rotor and plug wires When it sits and Idles for about 20 min it starts to heat up I dont want to ruin the new motor so I shut it down when it gets to the L in normal I have tried everything I can think of and it still heats up PS I havnt had it on the road yet so as far as I know it only does it at idle so any help would be apreciated cause Im totaly stumped
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
i would make sure you are running a 50/50 mix of coolant and a 13 lb radiator cap. did you install the head gaskets the correct way? they have a special block off plate in them and if installed wrong block coolant flow to the heads. what weight oila re you running? the thinner the more heat can be removed. and add a real gauge. even walmart carries them now for 10.00 and they look alright and pretty accurate.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: mesa AZ
never had the luxury of a new motor so I didnt know that Ive wanted to build this truck since I was 16 and am finaly doing it after saving and working hard for 6yrs how many miles till its broke in I figured with all the extra cooling work I put into it it would run cool
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
did you do the proper cam break in? that is important very important. and gives the new engine some time to allow all the parts to mesh together. also change the breakin oil after break in. you may aor may not know this but do not use a SM rated oil in a engine like yours with a flat tappet cam it may cause sheared cam lobes you want a sl rated oil. it will say on the back of the oil bottle in the api starburst service Sl.
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Freshman User
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From: mesa AZ
explain what is SM and SL and whats the cam break in I just put in some I think its GTX 10-30 primed the oiling system and fired it up set the timing and carb and noticed it was runing oddly warm so shut it down and checked all the fluids and made sure the tsat was opening and tried it agian and it still warmed up
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Try reseting the timing. Maybe the timing is too far advanced. Verify good water pump flow in the radiator.
A good way to break-in the engine, this information came with a new Ford engine from the dealer. Here it is summed up, Drive the engine 100 continious miles, at various speeds for different time periods. Do not load or stress the engine. Change the engine oil at 1000 miles.
I've heard so many different ways to break in a engine, I'm sure you've heard some already.
To break in a cam, with the engine at idle, then rev engine at 2000 rpms for 2 minutes.
A good way to break-in the engine, this information came with a new Ford engine from the dealer. Here it is summed up, Drive the engine 100 continious miles, at various speeds for different time periods. Do not load or stress the engine. Change the engine oil at 1000 miles.
I've heard so many different ways to break in a engine, I'm sure you've heard some already.
To break in a cam, with the engine at idle, then rev engine at 2000 rpms for 2 minutes.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: mesa AZ
The cam should be ok I did that but if it heats up for that 100 miles what do I do just hope it dont over heat or is there somthing wrong with the motor Im heading out to pick up a gauge and sensor for it and I will let you know how it turns out thanks guys youve been a very big help
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First off,there are a a lot of things that can cause the engine to be running hot.
So,
Run the engine up to operating temp with the rad cap off.
Stick a candy thermometer in the hole to get a accurate coolant temp instead off assuming it's heating up too much.
NOTE* :Make sure the coolant level is 1-1 1/2" below the lip on the rad.
Don't fill it to the top
Also Remember because the block has been bored out 60-over there is less metal to absorb the heat.
So,
Run the engine up to operating temp with the rad cap off.
Stick a candy thermometer in the hole to get a accurate coolant temp instead off assuming it's heating up too much.
NOTE* :Make sure the coolant level is 1-1 1/2" below the lip on the rad.
Don't fill it to the top
Also Remember because the block has been bored out 60-over there is less metal to absorb the heat.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: mesa AZ
Ok I think my timing is way off I marked it at 4Btdc and hit it with the timing lite its way off and to correct it Id have to turn the distrubuter to about the middle of the tstat housing so I think I set it wrong when I installed the dist I set the number 1 cyl to tdc and then set the cap to number one so I think I might have skiped a gear some where or had it an intake or exhaust stroke Ill check it out tomrrow and see if I can fix it how do I bring it to TDC with the timing and valve covers on can I turn the Hbalancer to 0 and then set it or do I have to take of the valve covers PS what would the cu in be after that much boring Im sure Im not the first guy whose ever run one bored that much
Last edited by Bulwinkle; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:13 PM.
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Take the right bank valve cover off. Holes 1 thru 4.
Turn the crank until you see the intake valve on hole #1 close, turn the crank so the timing mark is near the spot on the harmonic balancer.
This is TDC for the #1 hole.
Check the position of your dizzy rotor.
Looking at the distributor from the rad, the number one spot should be at the 10-11 o'clock position.
BTW, there isn't an M after 400.
The M goes after the 351 as in 351M
Turn the crank until you see the intake valve on hole #1 close, turn the crank so the timing mark is near the spot on the harmonic balancer.
This is TDC for the #1 hole.
Check the position of your dizzy rotor.
Looking at the distributor from the rad, the number one spot should be at the 10-11 o'clock position.
BTW, there isn't an M after 400.
The M goes after the 351 as in 351M