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Big problem with overheating

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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:16 PM
  #46  
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Ok I made it about 13 miles friday nite and It warmed up to about 230 and over heated the coil so it still over heats I think the block has been bored out to much or the head gasket is backwards I going to call the builder today and see what he wants to do about it you guys have been a great help and I really apricate it but the motor it self just has a problem
 
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #47  
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For proper cold weather operation etc you need a vacuum switch to switch between ported and full vacuum for the advance. Of course that is the least of your worries at the moment.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 02:34 PM
  #48  
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This truck will probably never see a day colder than 50deg so Im not to woried about that and the older fords didnt have the vacum mess and they ran just fine
 
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 07:04 PM
  #49  
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Ok the builder is about worthless he says that I shouldnt be having any problems with it heating up and that you can bore out a 400 to 60 over with no problem

but alot of the other machein shops I talk to say you can only go about 40 over on the 400 and not have these problems so what do I do just keep beefing up the cooling system with dual elc fans Hi flow water pump and maybe an even bigger radiator or do I try to call this guy on the warrnty and let him deal with it which will probably result in legal action you guys have been a great help so far and I know you wont let me down
 
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Old Sep 12, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #50  
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You should probably take the truck to a professional mechanic that is 50+ years old that understands the old engines and emission systems etc.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #51  
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Also if the old freeze plugs were knocked in to the engine block and not removed will cause an engine to overheat.
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Sep 13, 2005 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 08:33 AM
  #52  
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I don't know what kind of reputation this mechanic has............., when you have a conversation with this mechanic, remain calm, cool, and collective, try to gather as much information as possible on what he has done to the engine and how he does his work ???? For example, You can ask the mechanic, " Were the freeze plugs on the engine knocked into the engine?" pause awhile "or were the freeze plugs removed?"
and "why is the engine overheating?" "what would cause the engine to overheat?" "could there be a possibility the head gaskets were installed improperly?" Try to remain cool and concerned, tell him, "you spent alot of money on this engine, and you wanted it to run good and without overheating" , also "let him know he should be responsible for having the engine running good and the engine should not be overheating.." hopefully, all goes well, and the tone of your conversation goes well.

Also, Your engine will need to have the head gaskets inspected, this will require removing of the heads.

Sometimes, the problem is on how difficult it is to diagnose some other mechanics work on how they rebuild their engines...,
 

Last edited by 1975Ford; Sep 13, 2005 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 10:53 AM
  #53  
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I think I would go back to the rebuilder and tell him that the engine is not acceptable as it is. And that if he is not willing to accept responsibility you will take it to a certified mechanic for evaluation. If it is some thing that you did then you would be responsible. If it is something he did then he is going to be responsible for the cost of the mechanic's evaluation and the cost of repairs and/or replacement. If he is not willing to pay it then it is small claims court time. If you have a certification from a legit source such as a certified mechanic you will collect a judgement hands down.

As far as the high flow water pump and all of the other ideas, they shouldn't be necessary. If you are not doing any heavy towing then the stock system should be fine. Good luck on your venture. Gary
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 03:20 PM
  #54  
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.040 is the max recommened overbore for most any Ford engine except the modular engines, .020 for them. Do you still have the fan shroud on it? It needs it. Do you have a clutch fan or direct drive fan. What carb are you running? Pull a couple of spark plugs and see how they look. White = too lean, black = too rich. They should be a light brown color.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 04:03 PM
  #55  
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i agree with the above check all those and .040 is the max unless it was sonic checked. most enigne rebuilders consider the modular enigne non rebuildable. the same goes for most new enignes they have very little metal in them to begin with.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2005 | 05:57 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Bulwinkle
Ok guys this ones got me I just put a remaned 400m in my truck everything is new or upgraded I got a new stat 185 new hoses 4core heavy duty radiator a big fin water pump fixed blade 20in cooling fan and fan shroud timing is on and its runing a little rich I also stuck on a 400egr intake from edlbrock the block is punched 60 over and also has a hi volume oil pump accel coil new brass cap and rotor and plug wires When it sits and Idles for about 20 min it starts to heat up I dont want to ruin the new motor so I shut it down when it gets to the L in normal I have tried everything I can think of and it still heats up PS I havnt had it on the road yet so as far as I know it only does it at idle so any help would be apreciated cause Im totaly stumped
Verify the cooling fan was installed correctly.

With the engine running, and the radiator cap off, is the radiator fluid recirculating? (Caution Hot)

What is the engine timing set at? With the distributor vacuum removed and plugged, and engine at low idle speed.
Does the engine start up quickly or does the engine take awhile?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 02:06 PM
  #57  
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Ok Ive talked to the guy that built my motor and he is of no help he didnt sonic check it and he has bored it out 60 over he also says that its my cooling system and not his motor the only problem with that is that everthing on the coolingsystem is new and installed corectly and flowing just fine so Im giong to take it to the ford dealer and have them diagnose it then Ill have something in writing from the source and with any luck he might listen to me if not well have to go to court Ive put in alot of low miles used engines and never had this problem but the one time I put in a new this happens I think Ill stick with the used ones from now on

what other motors will fit my bell housing can I use a 351w or c I know I can use a 351m but there kinda hard to find
 
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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 02:16 PM
  #58  
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Good luck with the dealer even touching it. You can use a 429/460/351M/400 with your transmission bellhousing. There should be many 351M's around.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2005 | 02:23 PM
  #59  
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the dealer I go to likes these old fords and siad he would be happy to help I may just scrap the whole 400 and find a used 351M since my intake and HV oil pump and Dist will fit any clue where to find one with low miles
 
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 11:50 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Bulwinkle
the dealer I go to likes these old fords and siad he would be happy to help I may just scrap the whole 400 and find a used 351M since my intake and HV oil pump and Dist will fit any clue where to find one with low miles
Most wrecking yards will have those engines.
 
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