Big problem with overheating
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Also, not sure if you already looked into it but check your air/fuel ratio too. If your engine is running too lean it will tend to really heat things up. I had my headers red hot during my cam break-in due to a lean mixture. I richened things up and dropped my operating temp 15 degrees.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
1971 distributor & engine specifications for the 400 the 351M should be similar.
================================================== ==
This was the GOOD year for the 400 engine before it was smogged to death.
Distributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distributor RPM.
Degrees specified as distributor degrees.
Double those values for crankshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM distributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the engine.
=======================
There is also a thermostatic switch for the vacuum advance on the distributor. It switches between full vacuum and ported vacuum. Full vacuum is used during warmup which is changed to ported vacuum for normal running. When the engine temp goes up it switches back to full vacuum to speed up the idle etc.
================================================== ==
This was the GOOD year for the 400 engine before it was smogged to death.
Distributor part #D00F-U
Centrifugal Advance Start: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM Finish: 14° @ 2275RPM
Vacuum Advance Start: 0-1° @ 5" Finish: 12.5° @ 25"
Point Dwell: 26-31°
Initial Timing: 10° BTDC, 6°BTDC California.
Vacuum given in inches of Mercury (Hg).
RPM specified as distributor RPM.
Degrees specified as distributor degrees.
Double those values for crankshaft figures:
Example: 0-0.5° @ 350RPM distributor becomes 0-1° @ 700RPM on the engine.
=======================
There is also a thermostatic switch for the vacuum advance on the distributor. It switches between full vacuum and ported vacuum. Full vacuum is used during warmup which is changed to ported vacuum for normal running. When the engine temp goes up it switches back to full vacuum to speed up the idle etc.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 17
From: Hesperia, CA
I wouldn't take the valve cover off. I would take the #1 plug out and crank it. As soon as your finger blows out of the hole look for the timing mark and put it at 10 degrees. This will put you right on #1 then look and see where the distributor is setting.
Also you might suspect that it will heat up just setting at idle. Heck my well broke in engine will heat up if I let it set at idle for 20 minutes.
Also you might suspect that it will heat up just setting at idle. Heck my well broke in engine will heat up if I let it set at idle for 20 minutes.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
i idle my 428 in traffic for over a hour with the a/c on and it just runs a constant 220 same thing doing 70 mph. with a small 4,000 lb trailer it.jumps 5 degrees. i would look into ivans idea about a lean condition.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: mesa AZ
the thermostatic vacum switch on mine was a cobbled with mess couple of lines doubled back into it and the idle never seemed to kick up to warm up so I elimated it and ran the vacum adance off the back side of the carb Im going to go and do the timeing and put in a actual guage and see if it fixes it and I put it at 4deg because thats what it showed on the lable under the hood
Last edited by Bulwinkle; Aug 31, 2005 at 12:27 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: mesa AZ
yay I looked at and old vacum diagram I drew up and figured that one out
Ok timing is good water pump has good flow tstat is working and coolant is toped off hoses are new rads new water pump is new I havent had time to hook up my real gauge but it still runs and feels hot just on the short drive over here tonite it made it just past the R what eles is left and how can I fix this problem It really starting to bug me I set my timing at about 8 like you guys sugested and its still a little on the rich side I was thinking maybe I got a set of hot plugs I had that problem once on a v6 chevy but never a ford
Ok timing is good water pump has good flow tstat is working and coolant is toped off hoses are new rads new water pump is new I havent had time to hook up my real gauge but it still runs and feels hot just on the short drive over here tonite it made it just past the R what eles is left and how can I fix this problem It really starting to bug me I set my timing at about 8 like you guys sugested and its still a little on the rich side I was thinking maybe I got a set of hot plugs I had that problem once on a v6 chevy but never a ford
Last edited by Bulwinkle; Aug 31, 2005 at 10:40 PM.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Central California
Just my two cents. The candy thermometer is a great idea that I have used myself. While you are checking the temp with the thermometer, make sure the coolant is circulating through the block after the engine has warmed up. Might be something as simple as a bad thermostat. Also, it is entirely possible for the builder of your long block to put a head gasket on backwards. That, unfortuantley, isn't as easy to check. But, good coolant flow will eliminate "back-wards" head gaskets off your list. Make sure your fan cluch is operating.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
Originally Posted by Bulwinkle
yay I looked at and old vacum diagram I drew up and figured that one out
Ok timing is good water pump has good flow tstat is working and coolant is toped off hoses are new rads new water pump is new I havent had time to hook up my real gauge but it still runs and feels hot just on the short drive over here tonite it made it just past the R what eles is left and how can I fix this problem It really starting to bug me I set my timing at about 8 like you guys sugested and its still a little on the rich side I was thinking maybe I got a set of hot plugs I had that problem once on a v6 chevy but never a ford
Ok timing is good water pump has good flow tstat is working and coolant is toped off hoses are new rads new water pump is new I havent had time to hook up my real gauge but it still runs and feels hot just on the short drive over here tonite it made it just past the R what eles is left and how can I fix this problem It really starting to bug me I set my timing at about 8 like you guys sugested and its still a little on the rich side I was thinking maybe I got a set of hot plugs I had that problem once on a v6 chevy but never a ford
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by ford390gashog
timing won't help it if it is running rich. thats a carb issue. mine runs at the r in normal all the time which is about 220 on mine.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: mesa AZ
I just left it a little on the rich side cause of the intake and the fact that it seemed to run better rich it heats up to just past R at night when its only 90deg here in AZ during the day itll hit 112deg and thats when Im going to worry is there any thing I can do to correct this motor so that it runs cold Hi flow water pump and even biger rad should I put the origianl cooling fan back on Im at a total loss here just short of pulling the motor out and taking it back to the guy who built it
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: mesa AZ
yes but anything above 230 is probably not good right and at 210 to 220 it should be in the normal range still right what about taking the center out of the Tstat and turning it into a resticktor plate would that help or hurt