Big problem with overheating
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
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From: mesa AZ
no I had some problem with timing it today so I didnt get a the real gauge put in and will do it tomorrow I just read in my owners manual that its not uncomon for some of them to run a little hot
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
Are you running the proper thermostat for your engine? The stat is a special design for the 400. When you get the mechanical gauge in you will be able to get better readings. Always check the gage with a thermometer tho.
FYI- A bad instrument panel voltage regulator ground can cause all of your gages except the ammeter to read high.
FYI- A bad instrument panel voltage regulator ground can cause all of your gages except the ammeter to read high.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Hey bulwinkle. My '78 351M in Austin, TX always indicates at the very high end of the normal range when idling. It's low 100's all summer here, and definately runs the AC. This drove me crazy until I found the statement in the owners manual that said that the entire bar surrounding the letters N-O-R-M-A-L are considered normal operating temp. You should also make certain about the level of the coolant mixture - some said previously it must be 1-1.5" below the rim. This is also spec'd in the owners manual.
And don't discount the inaccuracy of that gauge. So many things can be wrong behind that instrument cluster in these old trucks.
Until you get 500 miles on the engine, it is going to be on the high edge of normal. Get the candy thermometer as previously mentioned and test it. Lots easier than the manual gauge if you are pressed for time, and it sounds like you need some peace of mind to get through the break in.
Good luck.
And don't discount the inaccuracy of that gauge. So many things can be wrong behind that instrument cluster in these old trucks.
Until you get 500 miles on the engine, it is going to be on the high edge of normal. Get the candy thermometer as previously mentioned and test it. Lots easier than the manual gauge if you are pressed for time, and it sounds like you need some peace of mind to get through the break in.
Good luck.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: mesa AZ
Ok I got my guage in today I installed it on top of the thermostat housing I also put in a 192deg Tstat I wanted a cooler one but it was all they had so I used it sitting at idle in 90deg it heats up to about 210 to 225 on the guage so I think once it is broken in itll be ok I just have 1-2 more questions does the vacum modulater valve go to full manifold or ported off the carb if so where does it hook up and I coudnt find a spot on the side for the dist advance so I ran it off the back
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
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From: mesa AZ
sorry the modulator valve for the tranny I kept the EGR valve and the charcoal canester but it no longer has a smog pump and I wont put one back on and I also eliminated the big vacum switch on the Tstat housing
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
well if you went that far i would leave the egr unhooked. no sense in sending that crap back into your new enigne. keep it simple you don't need any vacuum valves at all. one line to the transmission,one to the brake booster,one to the pcv valve,one to the vacuum advance.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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There is no reason to get rid of the EGR system. It is not harmful to the engine to recirculate exhaust gas, and in fact there are a number of articles that I have seen that indicate the performance and efficiency of the engine increases with a properly functioning EGR valve. With lower combustion temperatures, which is the result of introducing the exhaust gases to the combustion chamber, you get the opportunity to have more timing advance too.
You don't want the valve to open at idle - this causes rough idle or stalling. Therefore, do not connect the EGR controller to manifold vacuum; connect to ported vacuum instead. (Assuming you have the old style, single port control).
My city has just started doing tail pipe emmissions tests, and this is exactly the kind of thing they will be able to detect - and fail you for.
You don't want the valve to open at idle - this causes rough idle or stalling. Therefore, do not connect the EGR controller to manifold vacuum; connect to ported vacuum instead. (Assuming you have the old style, single port control).
My city has just started doing tail pipe emmissions tests, and this is exactly the kind of thing they will be able to detect - and fail you for.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,544
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From: okc
the tranny gets a direct vacuum, the advance gets the ported vacuum...to find a ported vacuum is simple...any vacuum on the carb ABOVE the base of the carb is ported, you check be seeing if there is vacuum at idle, if there is its not ported...if it gets vacuum when the throttle is opened its ported....