I got my 390 shortblock back in my truck and hooked up. I put 6 quarts of oil in the engine and later on put in the fe oil primer. I was turning it was extreme ease with my hand, or so I think anyways. I was starting to doubt the oil pump. Its a elgin em-57hv pump. I was reading one of their papers and it was saying even though the pumps are new they might not work. But yet the website feeds a line of bs that there are pressure tested etc.

Well I wanted to put the shafts on before I primed the engine. So I go about that but has I was tightening the last bolt on the right bank or cylinder4 I headr a loud noise. I thought maybe I broke something. I half a$$ looked at the shaft, rocker arm, spring between rocker, and pushrods, and the lifters I could see. I thought just maybe I broke the cam. Its the 343901 but I wouldn't think the cams would snap like a twig. I have just installed the crane 99837 springs. I got them measured at 91lbs at 1.800, 276 at 1.275.

With all the lifter sitting around I think they went limp because now of the springs looked like they weren't even close to fully compressed so the open pressure should not have been anywhere near 276.

I decided to go on anyway. I did the left bank and at one point I heard a decent noise and realised this was the rocker baffle. And after torquing the bolts down I was going to prime the engine. So I got out the drill and slected reverse, then let her have it. IT was a long time to me before I saw any oil get to the tips of the rockers. I went on for 2 or 3 minutes I think. The drill was hot and smoking. NOt even half of the rockers had oil. I am aware oil comes up through the 3 and 6 cylinder bolts. I saw oil make it down to some rocker bodies. I just shook my head thinking there should be more oil, and maybe the drill didn't have enough rpm to really get them system going. BUt maybe FE's are this way I don't know.

So I sprayed wd40 on the rocker assemblies and springs. Then threw on the valve covers. I then wanted to time the engine. I don't have a nut for my starter, its lost. Or I would use my remote starter switch. I put on a breaker bar and cheater pipe, but I couldn't turn the engine like I thought I should be able to. THe bolt got tighter. I tried reverse and the bolt loosened. So its llike wtf is going on. Is the cam broke and binding. I just layed the dizzy in the intake and through on the hood and called it a day.

Small details. THe engine was turning before the heads went on. I am not able to turn the engine now but it has all accesories hooked up. I have new seats and valves, and reinstalled the comression rings the way they are supposed to be. THe previous grease monkey ****ed them up, both of them. SO I expect fairly good compression out of the motor but still not this good.

What does anyone think or suggest?

 

Take it apart and check the cam. PITA I know, but do it. First though, pull the plugs and try to turn it over. If you still cant, then you have a problem.

My engine was quite difficult to turn over when it was new. They loosen up quite a bit after a few hundred miles. Your starter motor should be able to turn it over though. I was able to turn mine over with a giant breaker bar, but that's what it took. Now, I can turn it over with a standard 3/8" drive ratchet!

Even with a drill, you're not going to supply near the oil that the oil pump puts out when the engine is running. You probably started with a dry pump. So the oil pump has to prime itself, and that takes a while. Then, it has to fill the oil filter. Then, it has to fill all the oil galleries, and finally get up to the top end. The oil pump does take a while to prime if it's dry. The Melling I got had instructions that said to run oil through it prior to installation.

Good luck.

 

I did use a dry oil pump. I was ok with going on until the engine didn't want to turn. After I pull the plugs it will tell the story. BTW headers are my biggest pain in the ***.

 

I find it's easier to lay the headers in there before dropping in the engine.

 

I thought they would fit around the block but I know better now. Engine was raised to the max, trannys lines, starter, brake line bracket were all removed for install. I had 2 buddies over to help and bs. Then to really **** us off the left bank holes didn't line up. Had to pull the head back off and inspected 3 sets of sets and 2 other heads to determine the problem. The heads bolt hole might as well been drilled but a monkey right out of the zoo.

We determined the hedman flange was not the problem. So I opened up the bottom flange holes and then postioned them so all 4 holes lined up. Then I had to redrill all 4 top holes so I could proceed. My buddies thought I should get a new head done up. With new seats, guides, and ported, I thought fudge that. I use a bolt and nut on all eight exhaust ears and the supplied bolts on the bottom.

Then as for the famous header starter problems, the 4th cylinder primary tube is touching the starter right now. 2 weeks and I'll most likely need a new starter. I really hate doing things on a budget, too much stuff gets ignored.

 

Are you running new pushrods? I'm guessing your rockers are not adjustable? If a pushrods was not setting correctly on the lifter or at the rocker it could settle when you tighten down the shafts and make a loud noise as it popped into place. Or, it could possibly pop out of place wedging itself and making it difficult or impossible to turn the engine (I've seen this wedged pushrod syndrom in my own engine, ubt it happened whil running). I'd pull the shafts again, see if the engine turns easily again. Then make sure to get the pushrods back in the right place when tightening the shafts.

As for flow, my Melling M57HV pump would flow substantially at all rockers (albeit Erson rocker stands/shafts/rockers), using a drill to turn at reasonably slow speeds. you can poor oil (I used some assembly lube) into the filter shaft just to make sure something is in the pump before priming.

as for the header-starter contact: recipe for disaster. You will be back in there in a very short time. Make it right.

 

well I tried a few things and no luck. I will have to tear it apart again. Greg I'm with you on the starter. I have one lined up, I think. It kinda pisses me off that the headers are supposeded to fit. Theres like 2 inches they could move the 4th primary.

 

follow up,

It turned out to be the torque converter. I didn't have it back far enough and was binding. The snout got bent so I threw in a spare. Learning experiences the hard way, sucks.

 

I hope you didn't **** your tansmission. When I didn't get the Torque converter installed all the way it messed up the fluid pump and the truck didn't go :-(

 

Glad ya found out the problem there matt... and Greg did ya get the HotRod goin yet??

Russ

 

Greg, I am concerned about ruining the tranny pump. I'm sorta prayin that i didn't though. Time will tell.