Ok it has been almost two years since I messed with an FE and I just want to carlify to make sure I do this right...

Two years ago I built I started with a 360 truck engine for my '71 F-100 4x4. I had it sonic checked and magnafluxed and then fully machined (bored .040 over, line honed etc.) and threw in stcok 390 rods and crank. At the time I was not too knowledgable with the FE's and was told I had to stick with 360 pistons though, so I did. I went with Sealed Power part # H395P40 pistons. The I had my C8hae heads reworked with new guides and new 2.04/1.57 valves and seats and seals. Installed Crane Cams dual race valve springs, new stock length Comp Cams pushrods, cleaned and reinstalled the non-adjustable rocker shaft setup, and a Edlebrock Performer cam/lifters, intake, and 650cfm offroad carb, Victor series waterpump, Accel billet dist, Hedman headers, Summit double roller timing chain, Melling hv oil pump, DSC FE balancer, and a FRPP windage tray and Milodon deep sump offroad pan and pickup.

First off I want to say I tore partially into it this last week, (since it has been sitting built for two years), and it still looks like everything is coated with assy lube just fine. Any other precautions I should check first?

Now, IIRC, I'm either going to find an old FE dist shaft and prime it real good with oil, or at least turn it over several tmes with the starter to prime it. Then I think on my inital start up I'm going to fire it up and hold the rpms above 2000 for around 10 minutes or so to break in the cam, is this correct? Then shut it off and replace the oil and filter. Then restart and drive around varying speed and acceleration/deceleration/load to fully seat the rings correct? Any advice greatly appreciated and I will have pics of the process and a video of the start up here shortly to show how it goes... Thanks a million in advance, Stan

 

If you are still running flat tappet cam/lifters...

The oil needs to have zinc content. Most oils do not, or not enough. You can get break in additive or find oil that has zinc. Shell Rotella T may still have it, they may have changed the formula by now.

The background on this is, to keep improve performance of the catalytic converter, zinc has been removed from most formulations. This doesn't affect most newer (hence non-pushrod) type cams/lifters.

Rotella T is for diesel motors so it still has it, but rumor has it the formula is going to change soon.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=-1578676008

 

Thank you for the links, they helped tremendously... Stan

 

A 6" 1/4 rachet extension with a long thinwall 1/4" socket will work for priming. I dont suggest the starter option. And prime the mess out of it...

 

Have you checked valve to piston clearance? The 360 piston has almost a tenth of an inch of extra distance between the piston pin and the top of the piston, compared to a 390 piston. With any extra lift on the cam, your valves may be dangerously close to hitting the pistons at top dead center.

Also, the 360 pistons had full skirts that may come near to hitting the crank counterweights during rotation.

Before turning that 390 over, you may consider checking on those parts.

 

Redmanbob, After reading through the above posted links, I now know not to use the starter to prime, thank you for the tip...

390fe, I have not checked measurements, but I have turned it completely over several times by hand and listened and try to feel if there were any abnormalities or non free spinning, it seemed fine to me? I do know the pistons have the 4 valve reliefs cut into them, here is some specs on the build...

Bore – 4.09

Stroke – 3.78

Displacement – 397.2

H.P. – 324 @ 4500 rpm

Torque – 416 @ 3500 rpm

Comp. Ratio – 9.4 with 69.5 cc heads (9.5 w/ 68cc, 9.25 w/ 71cc)

Dynamic Comp. Ratio – 9.2 to 9.3 (9.25 w/ cam)

Oil Pressure –

Head gasket bore – 4.330” (4.400”)

Head gasket thickness - .041 to 0.43”

Intake Valves – 2.04”

Exhaust Valves – 1.57”

<ST1Cam Specs – adv duration 272/282 - gross lift .460”/.480”

Piston Specs - Sealed Power Part # H395P40--- 1-5/64, 1-3/32, 1-3/16 ring grooves; 1.759 compression distances; 0.9751 pin diameter. Flat head w/ 4 valve reliefs. 0.040" oversize cast piston.



I wonder if anyone can tell me with those measurements so I dont have to tear into it again and replace the gaskets again?? Thanks for the help, Stan

 

If it's been rotated completely, there's little chance of immediate disaster. I'm probably just being overly cautious.

 

Do a search at Fordfe.com for 360 to 390 conversion. It is a subject that comes up regularly and covers these issues pretty completely.

You can then compare your build to what is described.

Good Luck. With a little research, you'll figure it out.

 

The problem is I dont want to tear it apart and replace gaskets if I dont have to and I dont have written down the part numbers on the rods, rod ends, and crank. I was told they are all 390 but I dont know what part numbers. Thank you for the tips and help though... Stan

 

So, are they 360 pistons, or 390 pistons?

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I bought the Sealed Power 360 Pistons new, I was told all the rods and crank were from a 390 when I bought them used. I will use the dowel method to measure the stroke in the next couple days to get a measurement since its been so long and I cant recall exactly if I verified the part numbers or not. Im guessing with if it has the 3.78 stroke with the 360 Pstons it will still give damn near the 3.75" measurement. I will post up what it is after I measure the next time Im over at that garage... Stan