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My ABS light has been on for awhile now and I have no idea what is going on. I used to get the ABS light and all I would have to do is engage the parking brake and then disengage and the light would immediately come on. Now it comes on all the time. No codes...nothing. Bad sensor?? Help please...driving around with the ABS light on makes me nervous sometimes. Thanks
When my VSS (sensor on top of the rear diff) went out, my abs light stayed on and the spedo didn't work. Not sure if replacing the senor would fix just the abs or not, depends on problem i guess. Any rate, the VSS or vehicle speed sensor, is like 20-25 bucks at the dealer, that is where I got mine.
My ABS light has been on for awhile now and I have no idea what is going on. I used to get the ABS light and all I would have to do is engage the parking brake and then disengage and the light would immediately come on. Now it comes on all the time. No codes...nothing. Bad sensor?? Help please...driving around with the ABS light on makes me nervous sometimes. Thanks
Edub you don't have a lot to worry about if your ABS light is on. While it's true you've lost the anti-lock part of your system, that's it. If the light is on you basically have a fully functioning NON-ABS system. All the brakes are there in thier full potential, but will lock up in a panic stop. Not do the characteristing pulsing pedal during an ABS event.
Sorry can't help you much on what's wrong, don't know enough about Ford's design to help other than it's most basic of ideas.
When my ABS light came on I didn't get around to looking at it right away, like mentioned above you still have brakes just not the anti locking feature. But what came shortly after was my front left wheel bearing went out. It was the metal particals that chewed up the wheel sensor. So you may want to take a look at that. When the bearing went I was close to home luckily cause the bearing allow the hub to twist and I got a nasty gouge in my brake rotor. As I recall it was about $1200 for the stealership to R&R both front bearings and I think it was about $450 per bearing to buy from the stealer. New sensors come on the bearings. Hope you repair is cheaper than mine was.
When my ABS light came on I didn't get around to looking at it right away, like mentioned above you still have brakes just not the anti locking feature. But what came shortly after was my front left wheel bearing went out. It was the metal particals that chewed up the wheel sensor. So you may want to take a look at that. When the bearing went I was close to home luckily cause the bearing allow the hub to twist and I got a nasty gouge in my brake rotor. As I recall it was about $1200 for the stealership to R&R both front bearings and I think it was about $450 per bearing to buy from the stealer. New sensors come on the bearings. Hope you repair is cheaper than mine was.
Don't know how much different the F150 RABs system is, but when mine stayed on, it turned out to be the RABS Module, right below the Brake Fluid Resevoir. Easy change-out, but an expensive part.
I had a recent experience w/ the same problem and found out I had a bad sensor on the right front. I am not sure what years we are talking, but mine was replaceable at about 100 dollars for the sensor. I own an early 99. By the way it displayed no codes though I am told that Ford's dealership computer is smarter. What I did was lift the tire, remove the plug from the sensor and read the resistence on the plug. Their should be a resistance with the wheel still and should read a minimal AC current I think when you have someone spin the tire as fast as possible. You do that to the fronts and if it is one of them you should know by elimination. The rear sensor is on the differential and you can also read the resistence on it, although it is a little harder to spin unless you can block the front tires and lift the whole rear then check the current in 1st gear. Be carefull and don't make any mistakes lest you end up like a pancake. You might be able to tell just by checking resistance on all three. I don't know if I make any sense, but it is cheaper than visiting Ford. Good luck finding it, Mark
So how does a non mechanic find out whether the front bearings are good or not?
Lift the front wheel up and shake it?
If the front wheel is removed, where is the sensor located?
To tell if bearings are bad you jack it up, spin the wheel and feel the frame. A ginding vibration will let you know. My abs light came on, and I melted the rear sensor followed by boiling and blowing the rearend bearings apart.
I have the same problem as many here. ABS light on. I have the 1997 4x4 SC. I was lucky enough to get it diagnosed as a rear and left front wheel speed sensor. I thought the 1997's only had rear ABS? If that is the case and it still has a front speed sensor where is it located at?
The rear seems pretty easy to change and the price is not bad. How about the front? It looked like those sensors are quite a bit more expensive.
Now, my situation has gone from abs light to a high pitch metal metal sound coming fromthe wheeels. Is it possible for a broken sensory to make this noise?
I will try to shed some light (no pun intended) on the abs light problems that all sd/4x4s seem to get.Some of the trucks have 4 wheel abs and some have 2 wheel set ups.To find out what your is look at the front wheel brake lines,if you have 4 wheel abs you will have a wire harness attached to the brake hose that goes to the caliper.If you have electric shift 4x4 you will also have a vacuum hose with them.First check the abs sensor plug where it connects to the harness.unplug it and check for moisture or corrosion this will send a false reading to the computer and it will turn the light on,check both sides.
If you have the 2 wheel abs system it operates off the vss sensor(mounted in the rear end)pull the vss out and see if it has any metal shavings on it,clean and reinstall it.also check the plug for moisture or corrosion and clean as needed.
If you have 4 wheel abs the next thing you will need to do is remove the front wheels(don't forget the use of jack stands) remove the bolts that hold the caliper in place and move it out of the way,then remove the rotor.remove the bolt that holds the abs sensor in place and pull the sensor out of the hole.Now look into the hole that the sensor came out of.You will see the reluctor that triggers the abs sensor.THE RELUCTOR MUST BE CENTERED IN THE HOLE to trigger the sensor.If its not you have bad bearings in this wheel hub and will need to replase the hub.If it is centered you most likely have a bad abs sensor,simply replace the sensor.
Now a word about the wheel hubs.EXPENSIVE!.The hubs have a poor seal setup in them.When the bearings heat up the seals vent pressure from them and when they cool they build vacuum and tend to draw dirt and moisture into them,this causes the bearings to wear, and let the reluctor to "walk " in the hub and the abs light will trigger.This is what happened to my 99.
Ford uses 2 models of hubs.Early (99) and late (00-04).The early hub is #F81Z-1104-BE (list price is $640.11) and late #F81Z-1104-BH (list price $606.57).If you need to replace yours get the late model, as they are lower priced and are a little stronger.(the face plate is 1/2" thick v.s.3/8" ).Both hubs come with abs sensors in them.I am a mechanic with a national trucking fleet and my local ford dealer sell me all my parts at employee prices,the hubs cost me $275.00 ea.
Since I already had mine apart I also replaced the axle joints,upper and lower ball joints inner and outter axle seals,o-rings and lock outs,tie rod ends,draglink ends etc.I put $1000.00 in the parts for the front end,but she's worth it!
I bought this early 99 F350 cc 4x4
with 231,000.on the clock and she runs like new.You gotta love these psd's.