Sorry man,abs sensor won't make any noise.You have bearing failure in the wheel hub.Get it replaced before you wear the stub end of the axle out.I don't want to scare you but the wheel could seize up or even come off.

 

Good info Rat. Keep it coming.

 

Welcome aboard, Rat.

We jus' LOVE newbies that come armed with good data!

Pop

 

No kidding, I put that in my saved folder for later!!!

 

I was told from the dealer that the superduty has some non standard bearings...
does that mean i have to get it fix/replace by the dealer?

Are you confident it's the bearing? The dealer wanted $179 to "troublehoot" the abs light. If it's the bearings, I'll just have the dealer look at the bearings instead of the abs.

thanks again!

 

Thank you, The Rat.

I will be looking at this over the weekend

 

I have a 99 F250 4x4 Crew Cab. My ABS light has been on for several months. I have been told it is a sensor. After reading some of the post on here, I feel like a duck in a hell storm. Just wondering as well if not having ABS would have anything to do with my drive shaft falling out when I had to hit the brakes pretty hard doing about 70. Anywho, any simplified answers to the ABS light, pictures of location etc.... would be helpful. Anyone had a problem with their ignition on the steering column constantly pinging as if the lights were on or door open with the keys in the ignition? I found a fix for that.

 

How difficult is it to replace the bearings on these super duties? Can a good small shop do it or I have to go to the dealers?

 

The bearing hubs are easy to replace,anyone can replace them.First remove the wheel,remove the two bolts that hold the brake caliper and move it out of the way(set it on top of your leaf spring)remove the brake rotor.Look at the area behind the flange that the wheel bolts onto,If there is grease being slung out of the bearing your bearing and seal has failed and will need to be replaced.Also check the clearance between the wheel flange and the casting that holds the bearing, if the flange is right up agenst the casting its toast. A good bearing will not have any grease on the flange and it will have about 1/8" of clearance.
To replace the hub from this point,remove the snap ring that holds the lockout in place and pull the lockout out.Next remove the snap ring on the end of the axle and the two metal spacers with the plastic spacer thats in between them.Remove the bolt that holds the abs sensor wire in place and unplug the sensor from the harness.Now remove the 4 nuts from inside the steering knuckel that hold the hub in place and pull it straight out,making sure that the axle stays in place.
When the hub is removed look at the inside of the hub from the rear,you will see a roller bearing inside of it.If it or the area of the axle stub that it rides on are rusted or damaged you will need to replace the axle stub and the large seal on the axle stub.
Now here's a tip that the ford dealer won't tell you(the dealer won't sell you just the end stub axle,they will sell the complete axle for $400.00 to $600.00 depending on right or left side)Go to a dana/spicer dealer,they will sell you the end stub axle and the seal to go with it for under $150.00 and will install the seal on the stub for you.(you will need a tool to do this).Replace the axle u-joint as long as your in there.
The new hub will come with a abs sensor,but you will need to get a new o-ring that goes on the hub,and also get one for the lockout hub,If you don't replace the o-rings you will have a vacuum leak and the auto lockout won't work.
Put it all back togeather and your good to go.I hope this info is helpful to you,good luck.

 

Okay, so I went to my truck and got these numbers off of the sticker behind the front passenger side of the front axle:

6110711

D-271-D

Date: 1/22/2001

1C34-3002-JA

6110711 101670

BVA N
D 229


Which of these numbers is the part number ?

 

I appreciate the install instructions. I'm going to do this soon and to save money I am doing it myself. Thanks for your help.

 

None of them.This is what spicer calls a bill of materals,this is a manufacturers list of how to build it at the factory.
The #'s that you need are stamped in the tag that is attached to one of the bolts that holds the cover on to the diff.If the tag has been removed you can look on your vin tag and there will be a code where it says "axle",call your ford dealer parts dept with this code they will tell you what axle you have.

 

UPDATE:
My truck was making so much noise so I had to take the truck across the street from where I live to a local shop. Heck, the parts guy at the local Ford dealer recommended this shop. They told me that my right hub/bearing was gone resulting in the destruction of the speed sensor....hence....abs light.
well the total cost is $650 for parts and labor and diagnostic...

next..time...i will TRY to do this myself.

 

Just got my truck back.
$60 Diag (Code Reader)
$200 Labor
$380 hub/bearing w/ new sensor assembly

I guess it's fair. I wonder how much the dealer would charge?

 

Ummmm........

More?

;-)))

Pop