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PYRO probe install

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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 10:25 PM
  #1  
efoster_01's Avatar
efoster_01
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From: Peoria, Il
Arrow PYRO probe install

I havent got my truck yet (should be here monday). but how hard is it to disconnect the uppipe so that all the shavings from drilling for the probe blow out without having to remove the manifold from the engine. or is this a ton of work, i just dont want anything goin threw my brand new turbo. its a new 06 btw.

Thanks,
Bone
 

Last edited by efoster_01; Aug 17, 2005 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 10:59 PM
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LouieBobo
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Add a little grease or Vaseline to the drill bit and tap. It will pick up most of the shavings. Use like a turkey baster or something that has some suckson to remove the rest. The manifold is not that thick so you should not have a problem.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 02:31 PM
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jackofalltrades
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From: Lynden, WA.
Wait just a sec, Doesn't the 06 have a factory pre-turbo EGT gauge?

There's been much discussion about this. Drilling with magnatized bits, and putting some grease on. ... Letting the little flakes pass through the system at idle. Keeping the engine running while drilling.. All that has been tried and might I say 'proven', not to be detremental to the turbo.

Personally, I removed the exhaust manifold, drilled and tapped, and cleaned. Not the up-pipe/Y-pipe. That's where all I've ever seen were installed. In the manfold.

http://www.cnw.com/~hotrod/Toys/PSD/ManifoldProbe.JPG

Notice that I used the flat flange on the manifold since it seems to be the place with the most meat to tap.

http://www.cnw.com/~hotrod/Toys/PSD/ProbeInstalled.JPG

Be careful if you have a long probe, that limits where you can install. Most manufactures of instrumentation have short thermocouples too.

If you're installing a post turbo EGT gauge, then just drill six or so inches out from the turbo on the down tube. Weld in your bung right there. No fear of contaminating the turbo or cat.

-Steve
 
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 02:42 PM
  #4  
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efoster_01
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my point is not to install in the up-pipe, bit if i remove it i can drill the manifold with it still on the truck, and simply vacume it out or start the truck, then reinstall the up-pipe. and to my knowledge no about the 06 and the egt guage, but i ordered it b4 06 was on the lot.

Bone
 
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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jackofalltrades
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From: Lynden, WA.
Hmm.. Maybe the new one's don't have an EGT gauge.. Boost? Gosh, for the price of these new trucks, they ought to have a decent set of gauges! Almost $400 installing mine myself! http://www.cnw.com/~hotrod/Toys/PSD/DriversDash.JPG

Removing/loosening the up/Y-pipe might be more work than removing the manifold. But I understand now what you're saying. At least the one leg of the pipe so you can vaccume the innards of that manifold after drilling. But I don't think you're going to get enough flex out of the pipe to get it out of your way unless you losen all three flanges. And that's more work than pulling the drivers manifold off.

Leaving the manifold on to drill, you're limited to only drilling at the bend at the aft portion of the manifold. I know people install thermocouples there, and dont' have problems, but that's really the thinnest part of the casting.

If you decide to remove the drivers flange of the Y-pipe from the manifold, or remove the manifod, Take the drivers front tire off and properly support the rig. It's a bit easier to get to the flange bolts that way. If you snap one of the stainless bolts used at the flange or holding the manifold on, you don't need to replace with stainless. -And I wouldn't, (you ever try to drill out a stainless bolt on an exhaust system?), Oh, and they're metric!

-Steve
 

Last edited by jackofalltrades; Aug 18, 2005 at 03:11 PM.
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