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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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Fordtuff4x4
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I have the 300 my check engine light has been coming on and off now its on all the time what do you think it could be. Plus the truck kinda idles rough when i start it. idles about 1200 rpm for a few sec then it drops around 600-800 rpm then it jumps back to 1200 rpm then drops for a few sec then it idles around 600-800 rpms constent. then when driving and i let off the gas it drops hard to 600-800 rpms then if i push the gas to hard it jumps to about 2500-3000 rmps is it just this type of motor sence the load is so low or what. its just sound funny a little injector problems or somthing but i ran some cleaner throw it and it dident help any.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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nex thing is i live in idaho and i dont have smog here and i read that you can take of the smog and it will give me more hp & tq how do you do this.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2005 | 07:19 AM
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Could be a bad TPS or Idle Speed motor
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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The smog is built right into the head on the inline 6, if you want to get rid of it you will have to plug all the ports that are hooked up to the Smog. Then you can take the accessory belt off the smog pump and that will take a few pounds of stress off the engine, other then that you should be good to go.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 09:13 PM
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how do you plug all the ports going to the smog, i took mine off and just got a new belt didnt plug anything, could this be a reason for bad gas mileage?...and what exactly would i plug? if you could tell me in detail?

thanks!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:57 AM
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Josh, after I got to thinking about it, there should only be one port, however, if you didnt unhook the smog pump from the smog line then you should be just fine,if you didnt then you would have a huge vaccum leak, all the smog pump does is pump more air through the exhaust in order to match the air to exhaust or carbon monoxide ratio to meet the emission standards, if all you did is take the smog pump belt off then you shouldnt have any problems, the only power gain you will get is from the engine not having to turn the pump all the time and that doesnt really make that much difference, maybe like 1/4 mile per gallon at absolute best, you wont notice any power difference at all i doubt, the inline 6 is too much a torque monster for that pump to even make a dent. I hope this answered your question.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 08:22 AM
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well i did take the pump off as well, so i need to plug these lines?...i took it off cause when i did my body lift it was hitting something, i remember exactly what it was, but i know we took it off and i didnt plug the vaccum lines
 
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 05:39 PM
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I know that some of the 300s had 6 little ports in the side of the head, above the intake that pump air into the head during the first few minutes of operation. I don't know what years did, but my 88 had them till I got rid of them and plugged them with bolts. I got rid of the air diverter valve that sat basically on top of the altenator and connected the two rubber hoses, which gives a direct line from the air pump to the cat. converter.

I have the 300 my check engine light has been coming on and off now its on all the time what do you think it could be. Plus the truck kinda idles rough when i start it. idles about 1200 rpm for a few sec then it drops around 600-800 rpm then it jumps back to 1200 rpm then drops for a few sec then it idles around 600-800 rpms constent. then when driving and i let off the gas it drops hard to 600-800 rpms then if i push the gas to hard it jumps to about 2500-3000 rmps is it just this type of motor sence the load is so low or what. its just sound funny a little injector problems or somthing but i ran some cleaner throw it and it dident help any.

I recommend taking your truck to autozone , and having them read your codes. They sould do it for free. Then, go to a different auto store(like napa), and get any parts you may need. Why not buy from autozone?, I posted a topic a few days ago about their sensors titled Autozone/wells.
 
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