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need some help please!

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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 10:56 AM
  #1  
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need some heater hose help please!

hi all,

thank god i found this forum, i was looking everywhere for a good source of technical/wrenching information.

anyway, i need some help. this past weekend i had to perform some routine maintenance on my aerostar, a 93 3.0L. i blew a heater hose at the water pump and there wasn't enough length to cut and re-attach. so, i decided to replace both hoses. easy enough. problem is that i think i may have crossed the lines accidentally. can anyone tell me which hose goes to the large outlet on the water pump?

i have the upper heater hose coming from the firewall attached to the large outlet on the water pump and the lower heater hose attached to the smaller outlet on the intake manifold (or the outlet on the right side of the motor when viewed from the front just below the large radiator hose). is this correct? please help!!

i also replaced all plugs, wires, front shocks and tie-rods! the plugs were a major PITA.

thanks everyone!!
 

Last edited by cagedriver; Aug 16, 2005 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:12 AM
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:27 AM
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You got it right.

Top hose goes directly to the water pump.

I have a 93 with the 3.0L
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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thanks doug! i was hoping i was correct.

my heater has been blowing cold at first, then hot. my temp gauge has also been bouncing like mad all the way to the top. i suspect that i have air in the system somewere and will have to bleed the system. hopefully that will solve it.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 11:37 AM
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Mine bounced when I was low on water also.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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With the engine cold, open the radiator cap and fill it to about 1 to 2 inches below the neck. Run the engine until it's hot and keep the heater on. Rev the engine to about 2000 rpm for a few minutes to purge the air from your heater core. You may have to repeat the process a couple of times to get the air out completely. Be prepared for some coolant spilling out the radiator in the process and keep filling it up.

Good luck
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 12:56 PM
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plug changing without lossing skin, and knuckle meat.
use 3/8" drive 5/8" spark plug socket with built in universal joint, get an assortment of extension lengths up to 18" and a least one inline univeral joint in 3/8" drive. can reach and change any plug from top. get a grip type plug wire remover

wear gloves, i use thin work leather.

always use silicone dielectric grease in boots.

use torque wrench or 3/8" drive short handle ratchet to tighten, never more than 25 lbs ft torque or 1/4 turn after just snug on seal ring.
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Aug 16, 2005 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 02:29 PM
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thanks everyone.

i'll get the coolant situation sorted out tonight and hopefully solve my bouncing gauge. thanks for the advice on that procedure, i'll try it out.

96_4wdr, it was a bit of work getting those plugs! i actually got the passenger side pretty easily when doing the tie-rods on that side. you can see the two forward plugs right through the wheel well. the driver's side was a bit more work of course.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2005 | 10:37 PM
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Welcome!

Another thing you can do to help bleed the air is to jack up the front end so the filler neck is the highest point and will vent the air faster, (sense air is lighter than water.)
 
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