Clutch Advice, Please
My 69 has the 240 I6 and the three-on-the-tree (T-85, right?), and the throwout bearing is going bad. I have read up on this forum, thought about it alot, and decided NOT to try it myself. On this forum I read these good bits of advice:
1. No sense just doing the TO bearing. As long as it's all apart, do the whole clutch.
2. It is worth the extra money to buy the Centerforce clutch and double friction pressure plate and throwout bearing instead of a cheaper brand.
Here are the questions I still have:
1. What all needs to be done in this process? What needs to be replaced, what needs to be machined?
2. When I shop for a mechanic to do this work, what do I ask him to make sure he understands what I'm wanting?
3. What is a fair price range for this, both parts and labor?
4. About how long should he take doing this work?
5. Is there any other preventative maintenance or common repairs that it is good to do during this same repair process?
Answers to these questions, and other information I may not have thought of will be most welcome.
Thanks!
Jeff
1. Flywheel attached to the engine. The little brass bushing in the middle is the pilot bushing. the snub end of the tranmission input shaft slides right into the pilot bushing;
2. New clutch installed on the flywheel. It's actually a clutch disk and a pressure plate. The throwout bearing (#4 photo) presses against those three fingers you see on the pressure plate. That what engages the clutch;
3. Transmission input shaft;
4. All the parts coming together. From left to right are: a) throw-out bearing; b) input shaft; c) pressure plate; d) clutch disk; and e) flywheel.
Anyhow, you can get a complete clutch kit (pilot bushing, throw-out bearing, clutch disk and pressure plate) for about $150 from NAPA. If you buy Centerforce or other high end stuff, it's going to cost you a lot more. I'd just buy a stock kit and have the whole thing done. You will have to pay extra to get your flywheel resurfaced and if you want to go all the way, you can have the assembly balance as well. I just don't know what it would cost to do this work but I would imagine it is pretty standard. Just call around. As far as time goes, I guess if a guy has a lift and all the right equipment, he should be able to do it in a few hours. (I'm not the right guy to ask as everything I do takes me three times the hours and costs twice the money ... or is it the other way around?). As far as preventative maitenance, have the guy put a new seal in your transmission input shaft while it's out. Good luck and let us know.
Oops, only three uploads allowed!
jor
It sure was nice of you to take your engine and transmission out of your truck and take it apart and get it all clean up and take pictures so I could understand the whole thing. You sure worked fast this afternoon.
Seriously, though, thanks alot. That was VERY helpful.
What does everyone else think of his idea to go with a standard clutch instead of Centerforce?
Thanks!
Jeff
Last edited by qman; Aug 8, 2005 at 05:18 PM.
It sure was nice of you to take your engine and transmission out of your truck and take it apart and get it all clean up and take pictures so I could understand the whole thing. You sure worked fast this afternoon.
jor
So, the heaviest use this is likely to see is bringing some home improvement stuff home from the lumber yard. Most of the time it's just me and some of the kids, no cargo at all. I don't even have a boat or other trailer.
That being said, you guys don't think I need any super-dee-duper clutch, just the standard stuff, right?
Okay, then what should I expect to pay, including labor?
Thanks!
Jeff
P.S. Jor, you are the man!
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The harderst part is balancing the transmission on the jack and lining it up. its only about 20-25 bolts total.
If you want to have someone do it for you, Go for it, but if you want a little more stress in your life, here are a few things that you need.
A transmission cradle thing for a regular floor jack will help, but this tranny is small and light so I did it with out one.
You will have to get your flywheel resurfaced, if you dont replace it.(resurface unless you get a good deal on a flywheel) many parts stores do it but it takes a day(0r 2)
You need a pilot bushin/bearing puller that goes on a slide hammer. It has 2 fingers that hook behind the bushing. you can rent these at parts stores. BTW there are regular brass pilot bushings and there are pilot BEARINGS that have needle bearings in them, both will work.
If you were set on having someone do the work, then sorry for the long post.
Last edited by The_Ryan_Lilly; Aug 9, 2005 at 11:37 PM.
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Thanks for everyone's help!
Jeff
Usually 1/2" to get starter out, 5/8" to get trannybolts and bellhousing, 'bout 1/2" to get clutch off flywheel, and 11/16" to get flywheel off. That covers the basics, but there are a few others like shift linkage, tranny mount, driveshaft, etc. Nothing but basic loosen it/remove it/keep it in order. Keep bolts organized so you know what came from what(even if you use plastic bags), or just lay them with the corresponding part.
Like mentioned, the hard part is getting tranny down(it's HEAVY). The rest is pretty simple work.
Depending on what exhaust you have, there might be interference and need to remove some part of it? This would be the worst part, especially if rusty. You may not have any problems since it's a 6 banger.
Good luck!
jor
And no, you don't need a super duper clutch. What makes a super duper clutch is how heavily spring loaded the pressure plate is. That means it's harder for you to push down and ease back up.
and i just used a floor jack on the transmission and something called brute stength and awkwardness. i had to drop it the transmission twice actually, the second time it was winter and i was sitting in a puddle of transmission oil antifreeze and cold water dripping on to my sensitive belly<OUCH>.
Okay, I'm going to take the plunge and do it myself. I have a neighbor who has done it more than once before on call in case I get in trouble. I intend to use the money saved on labor to buy a floor jack and two more jack stands and a torque wrench.
I have NAPA, O-Reilly, and Autozone here. I was looking at the Autozone website. They just have one option. NAPA has about 20 options. Please help me choose.
-Remanufactured okay, or should I get new?
-I would rather put in a diaphram type, but I'm pretty sure mine is presently a lever type. Is it okay to switch, cause any problems?
-They list "w/ 11" clutch" or "w/10" How do I know which I need, or does it matter?
Thanks for your help!
P.S. Jor, could you please take your engine and transmission out of your truck again, and take some more pictures, so I can see the difference between lever and diaphram, and between 10" and 11"? If it's not too much trouble. I have to go to town in about 10 minutes, so could you hurry? Thanks!










