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There should be less than 1000/" play in the shaft. Pull it forward and backward, then side to side. If there is axial play the compressor wheel can either rub or jam aginst the housing. Look in the housing to see if it's marred. Check the blades too. Usually when the bearings go, you will hear a "howl" rather than the shop-vac like sound. I would suspect the bearings and or the shaft itself. Any-who, there are plenty of people here that will steer you right.
Hold on, Fords. You haven't said what you intend to do with your truck. Its one thing to equip if for towing heavy, another to equip it for drag racing, and something a lot cheaper to set it uo for hauling loads to the dump. The way you're headed is going to be very expensive if you replace entire units like a transmission when you maybe only need to replace a seal. Find a good tranny shop and get a diagnosis; decide on how you will use the truck, then maybe you can settle for a simple repair. A few hours in and out on the tranny doesn't add up to $2000 plus.
Fill out your Signature, and we'll know how the truck is equipped and how you use it.
Warren
P.S.: If I recall, you said you stood on the brake and held the throttle wide open till the rpm's maxed out. That's pretty tough on any piece of equipment, but hopefully the blown seal may be all that let go.
Sorry I haven't replied sooner. For some reson the notifications aren't working.
Yeah, I packed her up with 2 feet. But we're talking 20 seconds MAX.
The converter is toast. It was the cause of the engine lugging. The seal did blow out.
My brother-in-law is a builder for Aamco. He said pull the unit and replace the converter and the seal, and probably the pump. And there's no way he would put it back in without going through it.
That's how I got to replacing the unit. For the money it would take to make it a pristine stock unit, a couple of hundred more and i have a trans made for hauling/towing, or anything else I could throw at it.
As for use the truck spends most of it's time as a bus, a grocery getter and a taxi. On occasion there are a couple of trailers to pull, up to 5k#, 120+ miles on weekends.
The jasper unit is the same as the monster box but without the slam shifts to keep the truck streetable.
So while taking the unit out on saturday I noticed the converter bolts were cheesed a little, and when it got to the ground there on the converter face was the large letters etched REMANUFACTURED and a FORD QUALITY sticker. I bought this truck with 29k on it. I wasn't impressed.
And one more note- the red line to the wastegate is a vacuum line, and it's ability to work is very dependant on the condition of the air filter. If the filter has a free flow it is as if the line is not connected. If the filter is restricted then the drop in air pressure will allow it to open the gate.
Don't believe me? Check where the red line goes. Electrically operated solinoid to the green line. Green line goes to the intake air plumbing between the filter and the turbo. Since I have a pretty free flowing filter I see no reason to disconnnect that line.
And one more note- the red line to the wastegate is a vacuum line, and it's ability to work is very dependant on the condition of the air filter. If the filter has a free flow it is as if the line is not connected. If the filter is restricted then the drop in air pressure will allow it to open the gate.
Don't believe me? Check where the red line goes. Electrically operated solinoid to the green line. Green line goes to the intake air plumbing between the filter and the turbo. Since I have a pretty free flowing filter I see no reason to disconnnect that line.
It's actually a pressure line not a vacuum line. Any diesel intake manifold that I have ever seen has no throttle body to help generate a vacuum. And with a turbocharger there is pressure generated. So it's either atmospherice pressure or boost pressure, never a vacuum of any sort.
There's a spring inside of the wastegate canister that holds the wastegate valve closed. The solinoid valve opens and lets some boost pressure into the canister to overcome the spring and open the wastegate valve. Still very important to have a good clean air filter.
I hate to disagree Kwik, but look at the green line and where it goes. That's the source for the red line. Between the turbo and the filter.
Then take a look at the vacuum canister on the turbo. If you were to apply pressure it would actually help keep the wastegate valve closed, whereas vacuum would help pull it open.
And BTW, the oil from the converter was all sparkly, kinda like glitter. I didn't seperate the pan, but from what came out i'm sure there's glittery sludge there too.
New unit arrives tomorrow.
Last edited by Fords4Me; Aug 16, 2005 at 07:20 AM.
I hate to disagree Kwik, but look at the green line and where it goes. That's the source for the red line. Between the turbo and the filter.
Then take a look at the vacuum canister on the turbo. If you were to apply pressure it would actually help keep the wastegate valve closed, whereas vacuum would help pull it open.
And BTW, the oil from the converter was all sparkly, kinda like glitter. I didn't seperate the pan, but from what came out i'm sure there's glittery sludge there too.
New unit arrives tomorrow.
I went and looked again just to be sure. The red line has a rubber Y connector in the middle of it that ports right off of the Y-pipe intake manifold. There is always atmospheric pressure or boost pressure at that point - never a vacuum. I'm assuming that the green line is either ambient pressure reference signal or a place for the excess blow off air pressure to go. But there is no way for it to be a vacuum line, there just simply is no vacuum pressure present in a diesel engine.
When I disconnected my wastegate to play around with the release pressure, the only way that I could get the actuator arm back on was to appy air pressure to the can and overcome the spring so the little arm would reach out and I could put it back on the lever. Otherwise it was too strong for me to pull out and reinstall without .
Thanks for taking the time Kwik. My truck is pretty far from me right now.
And if you applied pressure to overcome the spring that settles that. I believe you.
The "block" you referred to, is that the guy with the single bolt holding it to the pressure side? On my "2001" I only saw one red and one green, no t's or y's. And the only thing between them was the solinoid, and with it's ability to twist on the bolt there's no way it has a connetion to the air behind it.
I'm quite capable of being wrong, I just have to prove it to myself and understand how it works. I'll play with it tonight. And I know Cookie said it was pressure. Not much more to say than that.
Hey is there a trick to getting the downpipe loose at the turbo. It's still in there but life would be a little easier if it were out. No real problem just time consuming.
Next time you get a chance, follow the red line from the solinoid to the canister. It goes down and through the rubber "y" and on to the canister. You have to climb up on top of the engine and look straight down to see it. The pressure source is the "y".
Not sure what you are referring to with "block".
The best way to get the DP off is too liberally soak it with Free-all or equivelent at the clamp, loosen the bolt all the way or remove it altogether and expand the clamp with a large screwdriver or something similar. Once the clamp is released the DP pretty much falls off.
Kwikk is absolutely correct. Diesel engines generate no vac without the aid of a vac pump, and those are accessorie pumps.
iam probably wrong but doesnt the intake side of the turbo create a vacumm being that it is sucking or pulling air in!
maybe thats it pulling air in but not nessarly creating a vacuum
iam probably wrong but doesnt the intake side of the turbo create a vacumm being that it is sucking or pulling air in!
maybe thats it pulling air in but not nessarly creating a vacuum
The only way that you can get a real vacuum situation is to put a restriction to airflow on the system. Like a throttle body for instance. It's true that there is a measurable difference in pressure between the outside of the air filter and the inside of the air filter, but it's so slight that it's impractical to try and harness it for any meaningful use.
Besides you don't want ANY sort of vacuum (read air restriction) on your diesel. That= less air in, more smoke, less power, etc.
My 90 F350 diesel had a vacuum pump which enabled the vacuum-assisted (power) brakes. Maybe when Ford went to all disk brakes they didn't need the vacuum pump any more; I looked, and there is no vacuum brake booster on my o2, and a quick glance didn't see a vacuum pump. On the other hand, Kwik, where does pressure come from? I think I heard that the exhaust backpressure valve uses oil pressure to actuate, but you are talking about air pressure. Do they use the air presssure downstream of the turbo? I suppose the wastegate actuation is a function of the turbo boost, and you wouldn't want to actuate it with no boost anyhow.
Warren
Last edited by warrens250; Aug 16, 2005 at 09:11 PM.
Reason: Forgot some
My 90 F350 diesel had a vacuum pump which enabled the vacuum-assisted (power) brakes. Maybe when Ford went to all disk brakes they didn't need the vacuum pump any more; I looked, and there is no vacuum brake booster on my o2, and a quick glance didn't see a vacuum pump. On the other hand, Kwik, where does pressure come from? I think I heard that the exhaust backpressure valve uses oil pressure to actuate, but you are talking about air pressure. Do they use the air presssure downstream of the turbo? I suppose the wastegate actuation is a function of the turbo boost, and you wouldn't want to actuate it with no boost anyhow.
Warren
Your brake booster is hydraulicly boosted, much in the same way that your power steering is boosted. In fact if you look behind the master cylinder you will see a housing with a couple of hydraulic lines on it that ties in with the power steering pump.
Yes they use air pressure downstream of the turbo to control the wastegate.
They use engine oil pressure to control the EBPV.
The "block" you referred to, is that the guy with the single bolt holding it to the pressure side? On my "2001" I only saw one red and one green, no t's or y's. And the only thing between them was the solinoid, and with it's ability to twist on the bolt there's no way it has a connetion to the air behind it.
I think you are assuming it's a purely mechanical system, which it isn't. The green line you reference is the intake manifold pressure sensing tube. The PCM compares intake manifold pressure with manifold abosolute pressure, along with engine speed/load to determine boost requirements. The wastegate control solenoid then applies a pressure signal to the wastegate actuator to over come the spring tension an open the wastegate.
There is a vacuum motor in the engine compartment, but the HVAC system and the automatic hubs are the only vacuum operated systems in there.
Yeah, like I said, it works on PRESSURE! And as soon as my truck is back together I will be disconnecting that line again.
I was dead wrong.
I believe the power brakes are actually run from the power steering pump,but hey, I could be wrong.
And Cookie- is it possible for the green line to be there in order to release the held pressure in the red line? Or do you think the intake pressure is always there?
And yes the "Y" is there burried under everything and a wad of electrical tape.
There is no need for a device to release pressure in that line. It only takes about 5 psi to push the wastegate open, and when the manifold pressure falls below 5 it bleeds off through the diaphragm (sp.) almost instantly. I suppose there could be 1 or 2 psi trapped in that line, but you would never notice it.
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