concrete question
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 52
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From: ky
you can use a high range water reducer [ super plastisizer] to allow you to pour at a high slump without adding water, this makes for stronger concrete. the fiber mesh adds no structural strength, helps reduce shrinkage cracks. the wire mesh or rebar will hold the slab together. be sure to allow for expansion, may use bonding agent or layer of sand between slabs. if you want a durable surface finish,DO NOT LET FINISHERS SPRAY TOP WITH WATER THEN FLOAT, or start finish work with bleed water still on top. it will weaken surface and the surface will dust from now on. good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Here's what I would do. First off you have to insulate under your new pour and on the edges if they are cement..I would use a blanket 12x50' Insul Tarp the only way to go stay away from foam. Make sure the 1/2 tube is in the upper half of the pour. Gonna need 1500 feet of tubing. 5x300ft approx. I would go with 1/2 rebar 12 to 18 o/c. Lotsa ties but worth it.
Strap tube to it and lift with 2 inch soap block scraps. Pour 4000lb with or without fiber. Oh I love a big garage.
Strap tube to it and lift with 2 inch soap block scraps. Pour 4000lb with or without fiber. Oh I love a big garage.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 56
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From: Reno Nevada
I an estamator for a large concrete company here in nevada and all of these guys are right on that is how we would pour a slab of that nature but it also wouldnt be a bad Idea to take a grinder to the floor to enshure a nice bonding surface for the epoxy to adhere to another thing that guys aroud here are turning to is a post-tentioned slab they are really nice to roll arond on with a creeper Just some maybe helpful tips for you have a nice day all.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 115
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From: Toronto, Canada
I'm working on a post-tension construction project right now and I wouldn't advise using it for your application. Keep it as simple as possible. P/T is a pain, unless you're looking at a substantial savings in rebar (which is the case on our project). I've actually heard from a few people that Las Vegas is the 'hotbed' for P/T buildings. Is the cost of concrete and/or steel significantly higher in NV than the rest of the US?
The suggestions made here are all pretty good, its just a matter of picking one that fits your abilities and your budget. Since this is a slab on grade, you don't need to go overboard with reinforcing. A mesh or fibers in the mix is fine. We did the sub-basement of our parking garage with fibers and it turned out fine, no cracks, no rough spots, etc.
The suggestions made here are all pretty good, its just a matter of picking one that fits your abilities and your budget. Since this is a slab on grade, you don't need to go overboard with reinforcing. A mesh or fibers in the mix is fine. We did the sub-basement of our parking garage with fibers and it turned out fine, no cracks, no rough spots, etc.
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, VA
Yes you can pour directly over the old. Be sure and remove all sealants/coatings. A bonding agent is not required. The walls of the building will provide stability keeping the slab from drifting but I would anchor it anyway. If it were not for the walls then anchoring is a must to prevent movement.
You still want to follow the normal practices for pouring a slab - reinforcing etc.
AFP
You still want to follow the normal practices for pouring a slab - reinforcing etc.
AFP
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