pull number one spark plug. put wadded up paper towel in hole(just inside the threads where the plug screws in but not all the way into cylinder). turn key on an of real fast just enough to turn the engine like a quater turn at a time. when the plug pops outta the hole you almost or may have top deasd center. use a flashlight into the hole rotate damper pulley by hand in direction engine turns. make sure when turning pulley piston is not going on down storke. when the piston is no longer moving you are even closer to top dead center rotate damper puley back and forth noticeing amount of turn between downstroke an up stroke. center of this distance is top dead center.. get a white paint pen put small dot on damper pulley right next to 0degree mark an on 0degree mark.....as long as your advance is not sticking your timing light should work from there. i just set my 67 240ci like this but without a timing light.... p.s. 14gegrees is to much maybe?????? i set most of my **** at 11 or 12 degrees but i am at 7220ft above sea level at sea level a 240ci is six degrees... screw all the so called expert mechanics, just fix that **** like a hillbilly would kid...........

 

ull number one spark plug. put wadded up paper towel in hole(just inside the threads where the plug screws in but not all the way into cylinder). turn key on an of real fast just enough to turn the engine like a quater turn at a time. when the plug pops outta the hole you almost or may have top deasd center. use a flashlight into the hole rotate damper pulley by hand in direction engine turns. make sure when turning pulley piston is not going on down storke. when the piston is no longer moving you are even closer to top dead center rotate damper puley back and forth noticeing amount of turn between downstroke an up stroke. center of this distance is top dead center.. get a white paint pen put small dot on damper pulley right next to 0degree mark an on 0degree mark.....as long as your advance is not sticking your timing light should work from there. i just set my 67 240ci like this but without a timing light.... p.s. 14gegrees is to much maybe?????? i set most of my **** at 11 or 12 degrees but i am at 7220ft above sea level at sea level a 240ci is six degrees... screw all the so called expert mechanics, just fix that **** like a hillbilly would kid...........

 

Rather than using a plug of paper, just stick a screwdriver in the plug hole to touch the top of the piston, you can determine TDC very precisely with that.

 

If the damper outer ring has slipped the timing light indications won't make any sense. What really needs to happen is a new damper gets installed.

But, you can use a vacuum gauge to set ignition timing without the need for a timing light, or damper marks, this is a very useful method when there are questions about the damper or any other issues.

 

so what you got top dead center for what stroke????????? we were determining top dead center for compression stroke of number one cylinder. hence the plug of paper in the frickin hole...ya frickin worm. quit quoting **** you find on the internet trying to help someone.you obviously dont know shuit about motors....
i try to find out stuff i dont know about certain vehicles and all i can find is a bunch of half cocked retards like you spouting crap outta their mouths............

 

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Remove the oil filler cap and watch the #1 intake rocker while turning the engine by hand. Once it starts to close #1 is on the compression stroke.

 

Let's keep it civil.
If you disagree with someone, say so, but being rude and insulting is not called for and won't be tolerated.

 

@Paul Marriott - my DEEPEST apologies for assuming you were already on the compression stroke...obviously I offended your sweet little sensitivities, cupcake. I would suggest that if you can't keep your obvious proclivity for flying off the handle in check, you might be on the wrong forum. (And having been turning wrenches for almost 50 years, I suspect I probably may have accumulated a bit of knowledge along the way.) Grow up.

 

Hi,

Not sure if it's helpful to post on a thread this old, but I just signed up. I've read several of the comments on the awkward timing marks on the 300 f150. I have an 85 straight 6 and the only marks are the ones cast on the cover on the drivers side. There are no marks on the passenger side of the pulley - Ive looked everywhere. I did find the small scratch (not the notch) and painted it, but when I strobe the light that mark is nowhere near the gauge. I did see that someone suggested timing from the no. 4 plug (?) I hooked the light up to it out of curiosity and the big square notch was right about 6 btdc. And help would be awesome. Thanks!

 

I should add that there are two sets of gauges (?) On the drivers side, one higher up on the case and one right next to the pulley. But none of the marks on the pulley are near them.

 

Not only can the damper marks slip off axis because the rubber bonding on the weight fail, the distributor could have been installed any old way years ago, and the wires on the distributor cap adjusted to compensate. Any terminal can be #1 on the cap so long as the basic firing order is maintained it will run perfectly. But the #1 wire isn't, as far as a timing light is concerned.

This is why a mechanics vacuum gauge is real slick at setting the initial timing, no light and no damping marks needed. Some people can do it by ear or other methods but this is safe. Too much timing can damage the engine. It's also wise to scribe a mark on the distributor body and block whenever the proper timing is achieved so it can easily be returned to that point, or near enough. It doesn't take much to radically change ignition timing, a mark about the width of a pencil line equals 2 degrees.

 

Thanks Tedster9! Would it make sense to use a vacuum gauge to set the distributor and then put a new mark on the pulley so I can use a light to advance / retard? Is maximum vacuum alwaysTDC?

 

If the damper is the type with a rubber sandwich between the steel weight and cast portion (and therefore has likely slipped) it needs to be replaced, because it is no longer able to absorb the crankshaft vibrations. I'm not familiar with what kind of damper is used in that engine, so I can't speak to that or if this is what has happened. Have to check at TDC. Cracked or even broken crankshaft can be the result.

Using a vacuum gauge is a good way to cut through some of those issues I mentioned earlier when trying to set the initial timing at the distributor but a timing light is still needed at some point for measuring the total timing. The basic technique is to connect to manifold vacuum with a mechanics gauge at normal idle RPM, vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, and adjust distributor for just short of the maximum vacuum indication achieved. This will be about the optimum timing for any engine using pump gas, but it still needs to be verified with a light in terms of total timing - crank timing + mechanical advance etc.

But if someone is pulling their hair out puzzled about pointers and timing lights and slipped dampers and the distributor installed 180 degrees out with the wires all catawampus (ask me how I know) it will get the engine purring. They also are the preferred tool for carburetor tuning and basic engine health diagnostics, as they will indicate compression, valve problems, engine timing, exhaust restrictions and more. An essential tool.

 

How do you make a new post? I need help with my 80 f150