Changing Fan Clutch 97PSD
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From: St. Charles, MI
Changing Fan Clutch 97PSD
I am looking for a good way to tighten down my new fan clutch. I have removed the old one and am installing the new one. I have not figured a good way to get a wrench on the nut. This is on a 97 F350 PSD. Anybody have any suggestions?
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From: Morgantown WV
As long as it is snug it will tighten more as you drive. There are special tools needed to do it correctly. I spin it on then tap the wrench with a hammer to be sure. The rotation is opposite of the threads.
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From: Helotes, Texas
Mech is definitely right, all you have to do is snug it up. It'll do the rest on it's own. We installed a new water pump on a truck, hand tightened the fan clutch, and then had to remove it 3 days later because the fan clutch died. It was as tight as when we originally pulled it off...
Max
Max
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From: SHELTON, WA
they sell/ rent the tool at any parts store if you wanna be extra sure auto zone or advance maybe napa? why dont you just leave it off? when the time comes for me to have to remove mine for some reason it's staying off. and then if the need arises which i doubt... that i need a fan i will get electric ones.
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From: Helotes, Texas
Originally Posted by 1997F-350
they sell/ rent the tool at any parts store if you wanna be extra sure auto zone or advance maybe napa? why dont you just leave it off? when the time comes for me to have to remove mine for some reason it's staying off. and then if the need arises which i doubt... that i need a fan i will get electric ones.
Max
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From: SHELTON, WA
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From: Helotes, Texas
I dunno, he said his gauges read normal, but I don't trust idiot gauges from the factory (and he said it was a max of 80 degrees ambient. I know for a fact that it'll end up cratering the A/C compressor from running high discharge pressures (escpecially in stop and go traffic) and under a load I almost guarantee you'd cook a motor. I know diesel engines are efficient but not that efficient. Another thing to consider is tranny temps, power steering temps, etc... If you're willing to try it, I'd find a way to monitor all of the equipment that the fan effects. Just my 2 cents... If I were going to remove the fan (which I have considered), I'd go with a properly sized electric setup.
Max
Max
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From: St. Charles, MI
Thanks for the help. I got her snugged on pretty good with some channel locks. Should be good to go...............now i have to change the thermostat. Thanks for the help!
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Originally Posted by Max1775
I dunno, he said his gauges read normal, but I don't trust idiot gauges from the factory (and he said it was a max of 80 degrees ambient. I know for a fact that it'll end up cratering the A/C compressor from running high discharge pressures (escpecially in stop and go traffic) and under a load I almost guarantee you'd cook a motor. I know diesel engines are efficient but not that efficient. Another thing to consider is tranny temps, power steering temps, etc... If you're willing to try it, I'd find a way to monitor all of the equipment that the fan effects. Just my 2 cents... If I were going to remove the fan (which I have considered), I'd go with a properly sized electric setup.
Max
Max
Before you do Max......just think about all of the "heat producing" items in front of that radiator. I don't think your going to move enough cubic feet of air with an electric system to keep everything happy. It's like the engine doesn't even know it has a fan on it. It produces so much torque....the fan has little or no impact on performance. Just my opinion.
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From: Helotes, Texas
Originally Posted by touchofgrey
Before you do Max......just think about all of the "heat producing" items in front of that radiator. I don't think your going to move enough cubic feet of air with an electric system to keep everything happy. It's like the engine doesn't even know it has a fan on it. It produces so much torque....the fan has little or no impact on performance. Just my opinion.
Max
Last edited by Max1775; Jul 15, 2005 at 09:02 AM.
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