I have a 2000 Ford PSD Lariat edition. The other day I turned on my headlight switch and noticed that it pulls out with a click when the switch is in the headlight on position. When the switch is rotated back to parking lights or off, the rotary switch goes back in. I looked it up in my owners manual but couldn't find anything on it. Is this a 'hidden feature' that Ford put in for some reason? Or just a fluke of the rotary switch design?

 

Piece of cake!
The pull out part turns on your fog lights if so equipped.
If not, you can install them and run 'em to this pull out.

 

Is there actually a pin out of the switch for this on the 2000's? I previously thought that the mechanicals were there without the copper parts.

I'd like to know for sure, too, as I might use it for running my cab lights independantly.

Pop

 

That switch has so many limitations.
You can't run fogs alone, with parking lights or with high beams.
I've been considering running fogs on another switch and disable that pull thingey.

 

Steve_250,
My fog lights will run with my parking lights and low beams, but not alone or with high beams. I don't understand why they have to change simple things like this from year to year.
Joe

 

That's what I did on my truck. A simple toggle switch inside the truck in a convenient location that activates a 70 amp relay to run the lights. Extra heavy wire to the lights and they are BRIGHT.

 

Kwik, are ya using ST9005's in the fogs?
What gauge wire from the relay to the lamps?
Series or parallel?

 

I'm pretty sure your right Pop. I've been ohming mine out every which way but loose, and I can't find any continuity on any of the pins with the switch pulled.
That's alright though.......one toggle switch, and relay coming up!

 

I don't remember which bulbs are in there. It's just two 55 amp halogen driving lights that I got for a bargain from Interstate battery.
The wire size is 12 guage feeding both bulbs in parallel. Just about every electrical engineer will scoff at the "way overkill" guage of wire that I choose to use, but every time I upgrade wiring for customers they call me back and tell me how surprised they are at how bright and strong their headlighs are.
The way I figure it is this: The resistance of any filiment of wire goes up as it get warmer. That's how light bulbs work. They get white hot and control the runaway current with high resistance because the conductor is several thousand degrees. Well have you ever felt headlight wiring after driving for a while. Not right next to the bulb, but say in the dash? It's pretty warm. That means resistance and line loss, which translates into lower voltage at the bulb. So remove all chance of the wiring heating up anywhere buy installing double extra heavy wiring and then the only resistance in the entire system is in the light bulb itself.
I usually run a 70 amp relay right off the battery that runs the lights, then run the relay with a small switch on the dash. Running the relay itself only requires 18 or 20 guage wire.