Timing issues
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
Timing issues
I set the timing on my 352 last night after having run it a few days with just a static timing (Set it by ear, the light was still packed). It had been running fine, but with the vacume advance unplugged, it showed to be running 25' advance at idle. I reset it to 10' as described by the FAQ here on the board, and it seems to now run poorly. It has no power when I hit the gass, and at around 3500 ropm, it peaks out and won't go further. I can't take off from the light in second anymore, and will try to stall in first. The motor is stock except for a rebuild 10 years ago.
What could be wrong with my truck, or what should I be setting my timing at?
What could be wrong with my truck, or what should I be setting my timing at?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
What do you have for a dist. and what is the advance curve? What else does then engine have for cam, compression, carb, etc? What is your total machanical advance? 25 degrees is way to much initial on any engine other than race only.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by Ronin4x4
But if it really was to much it would be pinging. So why worry if it sounds good by ear, but runs crappy when you time it by light. If your ear and plugs say its fine it is. put it back where it was.
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Senior User
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From: Texas
In answer to Bear45/70, Its all whatever came from ford in 66. bonestock original except for a 60 bote at rebuild. dist is the original, but In great shape. The vacume advance was replaced when I rebuilt the autolite carb a few weeks ago.
Since my last post I went and re-timed it to 20'. Major improvement.
So what is the best way to find the optimum timing for this thing?
Since my last post I went and re-timed it to 20'. Major improvement.
So what is the best way to find the optimum timing for this thing?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
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From: tujunga, calif
be sure the engine is at a slow idle speed 500-550 rpm when setting the initial timing, anything higher and the mechanical advance comes on and will give you a false reading, 10 degrees at idle should be enough,
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
Those dist.'s usually had 13 degrees in the dist., 26 degrees at the crank. Some however had 10 in the dist. and 20 at the crank (this one was usually a high performance dist). The mechanical advance should be no more than 36 total. So 10 with a 26 degree dist. and as much as 16 with a HiPo dist. The vacuum advance will be on top of the 36 total. My '69 428CJ had a 13 degrees dist. and ran 10 degrees initial, at least until I dual pointed it so I could play some games with the dwell/ timing. You 20 is to much.
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Junior User
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From: up north
do you have the vac line to the dist attached to ported vacume?
do not use manifold vacume.
Disconect the vacume line and attach your timing light and check your mechanical advance. attach your vacune line and check total anvance.
set your timeing to 8deg before tdc and make sure that your carb gives that fe a big shot of fuel when you start to accelerate.
My 352 did the same thing. bad advance with a slow hole shot of fuel.
do not use manifold vacume.
Disconect the vacume line and attach your timing light and check your mechanical advance. attach your vacune line and check total anvance.
set your timeing to 8deg before tdc and make sure that your carb gives that fe a big shot of fuel when you start to accelerate.
My 352 did the same thing. bad advance with a slow hole shot of fuel.
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Senior User
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From: Texas
been timing at 500 rpm, Vacume disconected and plugged while the light was hooked up. at 6-8 degrees it might start on the third try, won't run without someone working the throttle. at 10 degrees it will run, but badly. at 20, it runs fine. It still runs fine at 30, better actualy. Idles smoothest about 26, and I haven't tried everything yet, but seems to run smoothest at highway speedss when I set the idle between 20 and 30.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: tujunga, calif
something isn't right!!!! try using a dowel in #1, turning the engine by hand till you find TDC, see if your timing mark on the damper is at 0 or close, sometimes they slip, at the same time pull your dist cap off and see where the rotor is pointing in relationship to the #1 plug wire terminal
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Originally Posted by hiball3985
something isn't right!!!! try using a dowel in #1, turning the engine by hand till you find TDC, see if your timing mark on the damper is at 0 or close, sometimes they slip, at the same time pull your dist cap off and see where the rotor is pointing in relationship to the #1 plug wire terminal
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Grain Valley Mo.
My 390 was rebuilt completely stock and after 20K miles I had the timing chain cover off. The slop in that chain was unbelieveable. it was a stock type chain, not the double roller. I think this would retard timing. If this motor was rebuilt 10 years ago could this be a factor also? That said, checking to see if that the outer ring on the damper has slipped is a good idea.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Union, Washington
Normally a stretched chain will cause the timing to wander, otherwise while running to move around. If the chain was loose enough it could jump and change the timing but the cam changes timing also and you cant rest it. Very shortly after the chain got that loose it will jump enough so engine won't run no matter what you do.
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