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Would someone be able to tell me their method for setting the timing on my truck "by ear"? I know that a lot of experienced guys can start with the factory timing and then tweak it so that it runs better...I just don't have the experience doing it and don't know what to do. I have set the timing to the factory specs for my truck, but I think that I still hear a bit of valve slapping or some other sort of noises from the valves on both sides. It seems like it is worse when at idle?
I've read that over time the harmonic balancer on these trucks moves, and that makes the timing numbers a bit off.
So, could someone tell me how to set it by listening to the engine? I have a timing light, a tachometer, and the truck is running fairly well. I set it to factory specs - 6 degrees BTDC and I plug the vacuum advance hoses when I do it. I am ordering a new vacuum advance just in case that is the problem.
I have a 1971 F100, 360, 2 bbl autolite carb, 4 speed granny manual transmission.
You could make up a piston stop and check your damper and see if your TDC is correct. I've never seen one run well at only 6*. I move mine up to around 10+* and run at least 89 oct fuel.
Knocking/clatter at idle is not timing issue. Sounds like valve train issues(worn rockers, push rods, cam).
i always put mine at some where around 8 to 10* with a timing light. the Knocking/clatter at idle will always be there its the valve train not a big deal they all do that to a certain extent. it is louder at idle cus there is not as much pressure then at a higher rpm. i have never heard of the harmonic balancer moving before but doesn't mean it's not true.
I set mine at 12, before I upgraded to a performance dist. I have check to see if my harmonic balancer was right by removing the #1 spark plug and making sure the piston has reached the top of its travel then compared it to the harmonic balancer and if it is correct it should read 0 on the harmonic balancer. My truck backfires at 6 and gets only 5 vacuum so I raised it to get the optimal vacuum and the most I have ever gotten on my truck is 14 vacuum. The noise comes from the valve train I have never been able to get rid of it. I have only been able to quite it by using 20w50 oil and and a can of STP oil additive. These motors the FE 360-390 have a poor oil circulation but are pretty much bullet proof.
using a heavier weight oil than what is specified on an old worn out motor will not "seal" it up any better. it will have more difficulty being pumped through the system and can also harm wrist pins and bearings.
setting timing by ear is extremely difficult. my uncle can do it with the motor idling and his head under the hood and get it perfectly on the money. but me i prefer to use a vacuum gauge, and then do some test drives, and tweak it additionally as needed. when in the truck driving it on the highway with the windows closed i can hear and feel how its reacting and whether i need to advance or retard the timing. having it a smidge advanced or a smidge late makes it run a distinct way and makes distinct sounds as well. getting it within 1/100th of a turn running absolutely perfect is so great and theres nothing like it. but also take into consideration you are just setting it at idle. if your vacuum advance and wieght advances arent spot on then it can purr like a kitten but run like poop at 30 mph, or run great at 70 mph but gahhhbage at idle.
I like to set timing rev up engine a little if it falls below idle advance the dist. more. till it dont drop bolow idle.nothing is worse them getting on it letting off and the engine stalls.
I hook mine on the intake back of the engine where the power brake hose goes into. Mine has a what I call a tree inlet with several vac lines that some are caped on the 390. Make sure you vacuum gauge reads 0 before you connect it. I had not notice that my gauge was not on 0 so I had been scratching my head that I was getting a very low vac reading during the time I had replaced my distributor. I just found out yesterday that my engines were perrrrring perfectly at 17 and not 12
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