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Setting timing on my '95 5.0 EFI without a pointer
What is the best way to determine where your initial timing is if your timing pointer is damaged? During an engine swap I was letting my buddy’s son loosen some bolts on the old engine. I wasn’t looking when he used an impact wrench to remove my timing pointer and the top portion twisted as the bolt was spun off. I tried to straighten it as best I could. I set timing at 12 BTDC on initial start up and it ran poor. It did not run well until it showed 28 BTDC so I’m guessing we’re bent 16 degrees out on the pointer. So since I have no accurate idea on what to set the timing I’ve been adjusting it about 2 degrees at a time to find it’s best running spot. Right now on 28 degrees (bent pointer) it runs like a raped ape, but it seems when it needs to be started hot the starter labors? I figured the best way to establish a good timing spot was to run it until it pinged and then back it off a couple of degrees. I havn’t got it to ping yet but the starter labors. Am I about where I need to be? I thought with it being a stock ’95 “N” code 5.0 that it would ping far before the starter labored? Any comments on setting the timing? Before you ask, I pulled the spout when checking timing.
It does sound like it's too far advanced. I have heard them labor against the starter like that without pinging, but I'd bet that if you put it under a good load (say, pulling a hill in too high a gear) you'd get some pinging.
I would think the easiest way around your dilemma is just to go get a new (and straight) timing pointer. Otherwise you've got to get a little complicated with with a dial indicator and piston stop to determine TDC and reset your pointer there, in order to get it exact. You can come close without it, but it's tough to get it dead on. -TD
I dunno much about the 95 model, but I know on mine, you have to disconnect the SPOUT connector before you set the timing. The computer automatically advances the timing to 20 or 30 BTC at idle anyway.
Oh yeah, I'm an idiot, lol. Well anyway, I can give you some tips on finding top dead center if you want, cause I recently had to do it on my engine when I bought a new adjustable timing pointer from JEGS. i made up this method and some people might criticize it, but I know it works and it's cheap and easy too. I just held a screwdriver in the spark plug hole of the #1 cylinder and had a friend turn the crank back and forth to determine TDC. The trick is, have them turn at a constant speed from somewhere near TDC and as soon as you start to feel the piston drop, stop and check your timing marks on the balancer. Then turn the crank the other way past TDC and stop again when you start to feel the piston drop. TDC will be halfway between your two stop points, and you should do it a few times until you are confident about where it is (take an average). I know its not perfect, but I'd say I got it within a degree or so. I was very confident using this method with a little practice. Of course with your situation, you will have to find TDC and then bend your pointer to point to the "0" mark on your balancer.
Last night I rigged up a dial indicator through the spark plug hole and located TDC. I used an old spark plug chaser, drilled out the center and tapped it to match a threaded adapter for my indicator.
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