I have never experienced that yet...My truck pings sooo bad that I can't get it to 60 or hold 60 very easily.

E4OD - Is that good? Other than some leaks that are being addressed I find than mine is a lazy shifter and it seems to shift early in the process. If it died is it a good idea to get another one or choose a different tranny?

 

Yup that's good. It has an overdrive. That means you can go faster than 65. I've been on the 401 with my parents and those tractors are usually doing close to 140kph. When we visit my aunt. The slow lane is even doing close to 120kph, my truck does 67(110kph) that's as fast as i'll take it.

Up there you need to be able to go.

I think the E40d was an Electronic Overdrive version of the C6 but not 100% on that.

DT

 

It certainly is fast up here.

The tranny is OD and huge...18 quarts to change the ATF.

 

What I'm i looking for?

3.73 I understand.
7.5", 8.8", 9"????

Are front different than back?
What axle code is 3.73? In case I see tham at a wrecker.
Do I just need the two gears? (Big ring and coned gear)

 

You should have an 8.8" out back and a Dana44HP up front.
It's harder than just slapping them in there. ALOT of little measurements that i don't even know about go into it. Backlash is the biggest. You'll tear up your new gears if they arn't set up right.

DT

 

yah dt466 is right. if you can find a used front and rear end same as the old for cheaper, then by all means get them and slap them on but, otherwise have a professional install the new ring and pinion set.

The pinion is the gear that attaches to the driveshaft yoke. the ring gear is the bigger gear that meshes with your pinion inside the axle housing. I beleive 3.73s will be the same front and rear, unlike 3.55s and 3.54s and some of the other oddballs gears like 4.10s and 4.11s. How do i know all this? well let's just say i brake a lot of stuff .

 

I don't recomend installing used ring and pinion gears. As gears wear in they wear to each other based on their mesh depth, backlash and preload settings. If you don't get those settings EXACTLY as they were in the differential you removed them from the mesh patterns will be different and accelerated wear will result.

 

i think he meant in case he finds a front and rearend with those ratios at a wrecker.

 

He asked if he just needed the two gears

 

Couple shops around here said I wouldn't even feel a difference between 3.08 and 3.73.
4.10's "maybe" but they don't recommend them.

For the record - I'm not calling anyone a liar. This is just feedback that Im getting.

Wrecker wants $250 Cdn for the rear axle with 3.73's

 

What kind of rearend is it? The difference between 3.73s and 3.08s is a huge difference. whoever told you that is full of shiat. Try it this way, take your engine torque say 250 ft lb torque x's whatever your gear ratio is multiplied by whatever your rearend is and note the difference between the torque you are seeing at the rearend as opposed to the high geared 3.08s.

 

The difference of torque to the rearend will be phenominal. Probably at least a couple hundred feet lbs of torque in your lower gears.

If you didn't understand what i meant before to see the torque then here it is again.

Take your engines torque 265 ft lb and multiply it by your transmissions gear ratio for any gear (1st will show the most notable increase in torque), then multiply that by your old and possible new rearend ratio 3.08, then 3.73s and note the huge difference in torque you are seeing to the rear end at lower intown speeds.

If you want to be even more technical you could see what your low transfer case gear is and check to see how much torque you actually see to the rear wheels in 1st and low gear. It will be a huge ammount probably over 5000 or more with 3.73s.

 

little off of the brand, but i went from 2.41 to 3.23 in my 77 trans am and it dropped 1.3 seconds in the 1/8th the gear change is pretty a big one but i think it would be similar to changing from a 3.08 to 3.73 you shoud be able to tell a big difference if you can keep the rear from hopping when you stand on it

 

I’m considering a 1988 E-150, FI 300 L6, C6 auto, and 3.08:1 differential. I want the best of both empty highway MPG, and HP/Torque to tow my 5000# travel trailer. Obviously, I understand that the power train will not speed up mountains, in fact I know that I will be locked to 45 mph in 2nd gear to climb large mountains.

I owned a 1985 E-150 with carb’d 300, C6, 3:1 diff, and towed 3000 with it.
I owned a 1995 E-150 with FI 300, E4OD, 3.55:1 diff, and towed 5000 with it.

I am currently towing with a 2010 E-350, 5.4L, 4R75W, 3:73:1 diff. Even this power train struggles on large mountains wanting to run at 4000+ rpm. So to limit my RPM, I still lock out OD and even downshift to 2nd running the flashers at 45 mph. I have experienced the expensive tune up already when I hit 135,000 miles and now searching for a vintage van with 300 L6 to replace it. I’m okay with slow, dependable, and economical versus fast, prone to spitting spark plugs, and expensive.

My question to the group following this thread is since I have been happy with the power train in the past, will I be satisfied with the power train of this one I am currently looking at?

 

How did you like the 95 with FI 300 / E4OD / 3.55 pulling 5500# ?
Did you like it better than the 85 carb 300 / C6 / 3.00 pulling a lighter load of 300 ?
I think you have your answer between them 2 and the 88 you are looking to buy.

I think the 88 would do better with 4.10 gears and a Gear Vender over drive
or swap the C6 for a AOD built out a little and the 4.10 gear.

Thing is the 300 makes power about the 1800 RPM so if you can gear it at say 2000 RPM and when you hit a hill it comes down to the 1800 RPM you would still be in the power band.

I have not used my truck to pull my car trailer 5000# yet.
I have a 300 carb / NP345 granny first manual w. advance adapter over drive / 2.75 gear.
I can tell you unloaded in OD I am at 2000 RPM @ 70 MPH
In 4th direct I am at 2000 RPM @ 55 MPH
So towing if on flat ground I can run OD but hit a little hill and I will need to go direct to stay at the 2000 RPM power band.

BTW I think it is in the 60 truck area a member asked about what gears to run and pulling a travel trailer with a 300 six, think he also had a NP435 but may be wrong?
Dave ----