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I live alone in the mountains, and have a '73 F-100 that needs the brakes bled. Just did all the shoes and pads, and put in a new master cylinder (bench bled okay) and rear cylinders. Nice, but of course I got air in the system. No helpers up here, so I tried a MityVac which seemed to work okay, but the pedal is still spongy. Before I force a friend to come up here and help with the usual method, I was wondering what people think of gravity bleeding? I've never seemed to have much luck with it, but what else have you all tried? Thanks
I was looking through summit the other day and saw some spring loaded bleeder screws. They are supposed to let air out when you press the brake and then close when you let it back up...then you can just tigten them back up....don't know how well they work but sounds like a good idea.
hi this works for me ......get a 20 oz drink bottle fill half way with brake fluid get a 12 to 14 inch piece of hose that will fit over breeder fitting and a small hose clamp.. start at right rear put on hose and clamp use a line wrench to brake breeder fitting loose .....put hose in bottle make sure it is near bottom of bottle... pump brakes 5 or 6 times slowly then tighten bleeder nut ... re fill master cylinder go to left rear do the same .. always refill master cylinder.. do right front than left front... this will push all the air out of the line and suck fluid in...... hope this helps
I use a quart jar with clear hose stuck in a hole in the lid. The hose is a tight fit on the bleeder fiting. I suppose you could use a long enough hose so you could put the jar near the driver's door. You can then push the pedal until the air is gone. You can see the air in the hose. Then you tighten the bleeder. You should not suck up any air with several inches of fluid in the tubing.
On further thought, I suppose you could run the tubing back to the master cylinder. You wouldn't have to keep filling it.
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I suppose you don't have to lock off the bleeder every time you let the pedal back up, since it's gonna suck brake fluid anyway. My grandpappy used to do it that way on older cars, but he said that sometimes if he had a loose fitting bleeder, it would suck air through the threads when he let the pedal back up. Hey! A thought just came to mind! Perhaps you could put a thin bead of heavy grease around the bleeder where it goes into the cylinder/caliper. That should stop any air getting in past the threads. Wadaya think? I'll try it this weekend. Thanks again.
I wouldn't mess with that grease idea, I know it is pretty thick but I would not want to contaminate the line if any gets sucked in. I haven't had any problem with air getting sucked in but if the bleeder valve looks nasty replace it. That's the way I have always done it anyway.
I just completed replacing the rear brake wheel cylinders and brake shoes on Brownie. O'Rielley's has a neat kit of bleeder valves that replaces the bleeders. I followed instructions(this time )and bled them by myself. Seems to work very well.
don`t forget to bench bleed the master cylinder. it is a neccessity. nothing else you do will work right unless you get the air out of that darned old m.c. first.
I use a small amount of teflon tape around the bleeders if I happen to get are from the threads. Otherwise the "hose in can" idea has always worked well for me. Just dont for get to fill the master EVERY TIME. Otherwise you are just workin backwards. Good luck!!