When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys, I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completly melted the lug off on the solonoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
The melted lug is suspicious. Anything to cause heat like that is a hint of a bad connection at that point. When you hook the new one up, hook everything up except the big wire going to the starter. Get in the truck and turn the key. You should hear the solenoid(starter relay) click on the fender. Then turn the key off and then do it again. You should hear it click again. If that works, then hook the starter wire up and try it again.
If it doesn't work, make sure you have the red/lightblue on the "s" terminal, and the other small wire on the "i" terminal(if you have an i terminal). If the starter sticks again, you should be able to jerk the "s" terminal wire off and it should quit cranking.
I went out and looked at the sol. I see what you mean about the connection. It has a thin strip of steel with a hole at each end. One fits over the sol. and the other has a bolt with wires hooked to it, it is really rusty and probably made for a bad connection since I had it in front of the hot cable. The other thing I see is the ground cable is hooked to the frame instead of the block. Will this cause a problem? Thanks Michael
The other thing I see is the ground cable is hooked to the frame instead of the block. Will this cause a problem?
Yes it could. The main power hog of the system is the starter. It's bolted to the block. And the block and the tranny are mounted in rubber. I would move the cable over to the block, or I guess you could run another short fat cable from the frame to the block.
You may want to consider the second choice, even if you do move the main cable over to the block. There should be some small ground straps running from the top of the engine to the firewall and other places. If someone had trouble before, or did an engine swap and did not replace the straps, you could have a grounding problem to the sheetmetal and the frame.
Last edited by Franklin2; Jul 6, 2005 at 01:19 PM.
Thanks Dave, I could not find any ground straps. I will put some on and get a longer cable to hook to the block for my main Battery ground. Youre help is truly appreciated. Michael
I just wanted to give everyone a heads up. Today I went and bought a new starter relay, I bought a Borg Warner instead of the cheap Standard. I found the screw holes that hold it the the fender where stripped out so I drilled and put bolts and nuts on it. I also bought the right length ground cable and connected it to the alternator bracket insted of the core support. I checked all the wiring from the ignition control mod., alternator and starter. Replace some corroded ends and things like that to clean up the wiring alittle. So far so good it starts fine and starts alot better after it is hot than it used to. Thanks for the good tips and info that everyone provides on this site. I would also like to think Dave for helping me in the first place. Michael
Previous owner had swapped my engine I'm thinking and grounded to the frame. I ran another ground from that frame ground right to the starter. No more grounding problems.