Front end suspension issues
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Front end suspension issues
The truck, a 2000 Ranger (2wd), the problem, alignment. Cannot be for sure what is knocked out of whack, it was like this when I got it over a year ago. Checked the sway bar, it is straight like it should be. Questionable on the upper control arm though, are there any specs on the positioning of these? The indicators other than the pulling to the right are feathering tires, driver side tire going bald on the inside tread and not wearing at all on the outside (passenger tire wears normal other than feathering which I am sure is the shocks). Completely independent suspension on this truck....NOT the scissor frame (as someone tried convincing me I had...he never even looked at the truck....<AHEM>). MMM...none of the bushings anywhere appear damaged other than normal wear. Oh, and a popping sound on the right side on occasion in turns, one single bass tone pop. Already replaced a damaged ball joint on the driver side. Someone guide me away from this taill chase PLEASE! (Trying to avoid Firestone...
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Originally Posted by Draco713
[font=Arial] Questionable on the upper control arm though, are there any specs on the positioning of these? font]
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I have a haynes manual. Went over it several times. The main thing I am trying to look for is anything that anyone that will do the alignment will try and tell me needs replacement. Already replaced the driver side balljoint. I suspect the upper rocker arm on the passenger side got knocked back a few millimeters or so. When I get the cash I am definitely buying into the lifetime alignment option at Firestone (Jim, you sealed that coviction for sure if I hadn't already). But, like I said, I am just trying to curb anyone from trying to screw me with selling me parts I don't need and/or replacing those parts BEFORE I get to them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Eastern WA
I would suggest doing your own front end inspection, replace damaged/worn parts, then see an alignment shop (from my experiences of years ago, ideally not a Firestone). The left tire going bald on the inside suggests a toed out condition. I doubt the feathering is caused by your shocks, it's caused by the alignment problem. The popping is likely caused by worn components; inspect the items previously noted. BTW, I'd suggest buying any other service manual than a haynes.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: central ohio
i just got mine back from a alignment shop, i had replaced balljoints on both front corners (top & bottom) had a severe camber problem, was wearing the insides of both front tires. still had some negitive camber after the ball joint replacement. 91 dollars later, its fine. 48 dollars of it was new camber bushings, the stock ones didnt have enough adjustment left in them. overall the ball joint replacement didnt go too bad. took me less than 4 hrs. having access to a actelyne torch and a hyd press made the job alot easier. check out all your components, replace anything thats in need of it. then visit a good alignment shop, not a sears or wal-mart tire center.
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You have the control arm suspension, not the twin I-Beam (I think ford eliminated that from rangers after 1996).
They are bad for ball joint play.
Jack the suspension up under the lower control arm as close to the tire as you can. Grab the top of the tire and try to push it in and out, if there is any play it's probably in the upper ball joints. Grab the tire side to side and shake, if play there it's probably a tie rod end (or wheel bearing play in either case).
Then take a long pry-bar and pry up on the tire underneath. You might have someone else do this while you look at the gap between the steering knuckle and lower control arm. If there is lower ball joint play it will most likely be up and down play and you will see the gap increase and decrease as they pry up and down (you might feel it as well if you keep your hand on top of the tire while prying).
I recommend replacing the ball joints if there is any play at all, although ford allows up to .030" inches.
As far as alignment goes, the only "factory" adjustable angle is toe, however you can replace the factor upper control arm mounting washers to allow for camber/caster adjustment, although I don't recommend it unless it is way out of spec.
Good luck!
They are bad for ball joint play.
Jack the suspension up under the lower control arm as close to the tire as you can. Grab the top of the tire and try to push it in and out, if there is any play it's probably in the upper ball joints. Grab the tire side to side and shake, if play there it's probably a tie rod end (or wheel bearing play in either case).
Then take a long pry-bar and pry up on the tire underneath. You might have someone else do this while you look at the gap between the steering knuckle and lower control arm. If there is lower ball joint play it will most likely be up and down play and you will see the gap increase and decrease as they pry up and down (you might feel it as well if you keep your hand on top of the tire while prying).
I recommend replacing the ball joints if there is any play at all, although ford allows up to .030" inches.
As far as alignment goes, the only "factory" adjustable angle is toe, however you can replace the factor upper control arm mounting washers to allow for camber/caster adjustment, although I don't recommend it unless it is way out of spec.
Good luck!
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Not finding any excessive play anywhere, nothing is pinched, squeezed or broken. Although when i laid on my back underneath and looked at the driver side vs the passenger side at the rear bolts of the lower control arm I noticed that at some point at some time, or maybe the factory really did a doozy, the washers and spacers are not the same on the passenger side. the driver's side looks untampered, the passenger looks almost rigged. The driver's side tire is the only one wearing on the inside tread (indicating a toe problem), but it is the passenger side that pulls hard when the truck is cold, feels like it is 'binding'. I have also starting hearing a power steering pump whine when the truck is cold. The fluid level is fine....so I am back at square one yet again and it just seems this problem is getting worse and I am no where closer to a solution other than thinking the rack and pinion gear set is going out. Anyone familiar with the R&P on these trucks? (2000 Ranger XLT, 3.0L V6-flex fuel, 5-speed)
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