Dan & Jopey, You guys have done a great job on the intakes. I am very impressed. It would be fun to have a dyno'd comparison test. What would it take to use them on a dyno? High pressure pump, computer. During our "fire time" we have upgraded our dyno with a pair of wide band O2 sensors. And I still have the project engine as a possible mule motor.

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Again great job.

 

I was thinking of doing the same thing with a prefilter to the efi pump. but with a clear filter so I could see if it was clogging up. one of the ones you can just take apart, spray with some carb cleaner and air and reassemble.

 

My CHI intake is for a 351W deck height with CHI 3V raised port heads. I have adapters for a 400 deck height with CHI 3V heads. You would need custom made adapters to use it on Aussie heads. You would need a Pump and filter assy like mine. I used a Walbro GSL292, 255 LPH pump and an Earl's filter. You would need a regulator, mine is an Aeromotive Adjustible Regulator. Also an A9L computer, a 5.0 L harness, and a Tweecer to tune it.

While we are discussing custom made adapter plates, this thought has passed through my mind on several occasions.

Make a set of adapter plates for 2V heads and an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Manifold, and machine injector seats into the adapter plates. Any 2V manifold could be used, and a throttle body could be mounted using a 'Power Elbow or the Sullivan Performance Cobra TB adapter.

That brings me to my next problem. The 460 upper intake will not fit on my motor. I knew that I had some height problem, and was prepared to have some height cut off the intake. However it is worse than I expected. The height is not that bad, but the 460 upper intake hits the cowl, and I cannot mount it on the manifold.

I have the option of turning the 460 upper 90 degrees, but I think that I will have a problem with the hood braces. I plan to check that out tomorrow. I will take some pictures and post them. This is plan 'B'.

Plan 'C' is to purchase the Sullivan Performance adapter.

 

Here is a shot of the 460 upper hitting the cowl of the truck.



Here is one of the 460 upper turned 90 degrees.



This hits the hood braces when the hood closes. It may be possible to cut down the manifold to lower it enough to clear.

 

man that's close. Obviously you've considered fabricating a piece (box-like) that you could insert into the cowling (after a cut-out) to keep it sealed and allow the extra space you need- but that must be a more difficult option than you have going.

Was wondering if i could get your build specs from you to include parts and scr/dcr, hp/trque from your ddyno etc??

 

Roger,

Here is my build spec. It is a 400 (+0.030), Ohio flattop pistons(1.64 CH), CHI 3V heads (64cc), Crane Roller Rockers (1.7:1), hardened pushrods, guideplates, 5.0L replacement roller lifters, custom roller cam from Midway Cams (281/281 adv, 224/224@0.050, 0.595/0.595 lift), Comp Cams roller cam conversion kit(dogbones&spider), Melling HV oil pump, Cloyes true roller timing chain, Sanderson Headers. The ignition was a Mallory Unilite distributor, Mallory Promaster coil, Holley Annihilator ignition, the carb was an Edelbrock 750 CFM, and a Carter elctric fuel pump.
I am replacing the dist. with a ProComp TFI unit for a 351W, but with a 351C gear.

The EFI system will use 42# injectors, a 2003 Cobra TB, BBK cold air kit for a Ford Lightning, and a 90mm Ford Lightning MAF calibrated for 42# injectors. The Computer is an A9P from an '89 Mustang, as well as the harness. All of the sensors are stock Ford Mustang/Cobra/Lightning. The fuel pump is a Walbro GSL 292 (255 LPH).

The Static Compression Ratio is 10.1:1, and the DCR is 8.0:1.
The torque is 404 ft-lbs@2000 RPM, and peak 517 ft-lbs@4500 RPM. The Peak HP is 524@6000 RPM.
I am running an 1800 RPM stall converter.

If I were to build this today, it would have a forged crank, probably a stroker, some work done on the oiling system, and forged zero deck pistons. It runs great as it is, I hope that I can get the EFI setup running at least as well as the carb.

 

Here is the latest rendition. It consists of a 4.6 L Cobra Plenum from Sullivan Performance. This fits a lot better than the 460 upper intake.



I still have a few problems to work out. The F150 Lightning Cold Air kit from BBK will not work, because the TB is too far forward. I will still use the Lightning MAF and cone filter, but I will need to fabricate the tubing between the TB and the MAF. Since the TB is oval shaped, that will be a real trick. Maybe I can modify the BBK air section and add some 3.5" round tubing.

I'll be installing the harness as I work on the Air Section problem.

 

Dam Dan thats looking great. I am putting my Aussie heads and intake on monday.

I also got the aeromotive fpr but I need hoses and fittings. Did you have any good links?

 

I bought AN-6 hose from Summit. I bought 20' of the Summit Brand. I have some left, but I think that I want to keep it for a while. I bought fancy Russel fittings, but Earl's are nice and a lot cheaper. I tore my fingers up putting those ends on that braded hose. By the time I got the knack for it, I was done.

 

Dan, that setup looks great. Your engineering background is definitely showing! Nice job, keep us posted.

 

Don,
Here is a link for Air Intake hoses. I think they are in your area. I will send them some photos, maybe they can supply the right pieces for my problem.

http://www.turbohoses.com/technical_assistance.htm

 

A little late but this may help the next time.

Don't Let Stainless Braiding Get You Unraveled!http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...less_Braiding/

 

That's a good article on braided hose. I actually got pretty good at cutting it with a hacksaw. I chucked the hose in a bench vice, letting the piece that I needed hang out the right end of the vice. I steadied the piece with my left hand, and sawed with my right hand. I had to stand over the vice to do this. I sawed gently, so that the blade cut and didn't pull the braid apart. I found that the cut end away from the vice was cleaner that the cut end close to the vice. I made a few bad cuts until I was able to make consistant good cuts. I put the first fitting on the worst side of the cut, and the second fitting on the best side. I made a couple of lengths where the first fitting went on, but I couldn't get the second fitting on until I worked that out.

 

this is cool chit! Now I'm wondering why your cam, with a longer overlap and quite a bit more lift is only draining 2 pts off compression when my relatively rv'ish roller cam drains the same to a bit more?? Also, whats with the ohio pistons- I like the height..I take it theyre bushed clevelands? putting this thread to favotites for sure!

thanks and HNY

 

Ohio Piston & Pin were one of the original manufacturers of the flat top 400 pistons which were actually designed specifically to convert the 400 to propane.