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Replacing stock Brake pads - help.

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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Replacing stock Brake pads - help.

I've only got 37,000 km on my '02 Ranger Edge 4.0, but I've never been very happy with the braking. Are there pads available that will offer a noticeable improvement? (I tow a boat too).
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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I put some Napa Ceramix on my Ranger about 15K ago and so far I rate them as excellent. In fact, I liked them enough where I also elected to put them on my SHO (4W discs).
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Brakes

I would also say put NAPA ceramix brake pads on your ranger. I put some on my 1999 ranger one side at a time because it got dark before I had time to finish both sides.Well guess what it pulled toward the side that had the ceramix on it.This proves the ceramx help stop better. The pads that were on my truck before ceramix was NAPA best matalics that I installed 3 years ago.Also the ceramix dont leave the black brake dust all over your wheels.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Thanks. So, what's the deal with ceramics? Are they harder on the rotors or easier? Do they wear out quicker?
Aren't the stock pads ceramic? (someone told me they were....?)


Cheers
 
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 03:10 AM
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The stock pads are ceramic and if you put on the semi metallic's they heat up and make a loud howlling sound when you stop. I highly recommend the EBC pads, they are about $65 from tirerack and they are worth every penny. I can slam on my brakes and my truck immediately halts. No Noises not too much dust.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 10:58 PM
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el conquistador
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Be sure to get the rotors turned when you do the pads, even if they look smooth. your pads will last longer that way.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2005 | 11:37 PM
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For the price of rotors, may as well replace them. If you're serious about running cermanic pads, note that ceramic takes longer to heat up to a useable level of braking. They are made for high speed applications, or intense braking situations. Pulling a boat, they will apply, regular driving, they won't. This is where the semi-metalic pads come in, they're made to cross from every day driving to hard braking applications and back, but are not the best of both worlds. You have to suffer a bit with the howl, but will have your brakes last longer over-all. If you want your ceramic brakes to last a long time, locate some drilled rotors to help cool them off, and save you from rotor warp. My own two cents as someone who's applied them to everything from race oriented motorcycles to street and strip drag cars. I currently run organic pads and stock rotors on my 4x4, and just don't go as heavy on the gas, as well as plan for stopping well in advance. If you have a standard trans, use your gears to slow you down, same can be said for an auto, if you learn how to shift right.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 09:20 AM
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I got my rotor turned for $10 each at a local shop but i pulled them off myself. The EBC's that i have stop the same weather they are cold or hot. I also notcied that if i slam on my brakes to keep from hitting something, the truck stops way quicker then the stock pads. With the stock when they got hot when stopping abruptly they would lock and the ABS would kick in. My ABS almost never kicks on now when i stop the pedal, unless its slippery outside.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jimw411
I got my rotor turned for $10 each at a local shop but i pulled them off myself. The EBC's that i have stop the same weather they are cold or hot. I also notcied that if i slam on my brakes to keep from hitting something, the truck stops way quicker then the stock pads. With the stock when they got hot when stopping abruptly they would lock and the ABS would kick in. My ABS almost never kicks on now when i stop the pedal, unless its slippery outside.
the rotors on the rangers are pretty thin and cheap. in my opinion your better of not turning them unless needed or just replace them. when you turn them they are even thinner and cause overheating and warping. I replace my pads every 40,000 miles and don't even bother turning. I've got over 100,000 on my 2000 and the rotors have never been turned or replaced. Good as new...............
 

Last edited by greenpus; Jul 5, 2005 at 09:43 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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I agree with not turing the rotors everytime. I have never turned the rotors on my chevy and they are fine. The only reason i turned the ones on the ranger is they were warped from not torquing the lug nuts. Since then i have bough a torque wrench and the rotors dont warp anymore.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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Does anyone have, and willing to share the step by step procedures to change out the front brakes, rotors and seals for a 94 Ranger.
Pictures are good :-)

My two sons are trying to change the brakes,rotors and seals on a 94 Ranger 2wd.I know enough to not get involved beyond plugs, points, and oil changes.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Commo
Does anyone have, and willing to share the step by step procedures to change out the front brakes, rotors and seals for a 94 Ranger.
Pictures are good :-)

My two sons are trying to change the brakes,rotors and seals on a 94 Ranger 2wd.I know enough to not get involved beyond plugs, points, and oil changes.

Thanks
If you go to the Autozone.com website, under "Repair Info" you will find the "Vehicle Repair Guides" which are pretty good, especially for stuff like brakes.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 05:43 PM
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Thanks Rockledge
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:03 AM
  #14  
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I am looking to replace brake pads on my ranger. I can't find the EBC pads described above on the tirerack site. Also, the stock rotors have not performed well. what is recomended as a replacement? I am thinking Brembo's fromn tirerack or NAPA brand?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 07:56 AM
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I found that summit now sells EBC pads for about $50 a set. If you are having the same problem that i had with the rotors which was warping, as soon as i started torquing my wheels myself the problem stopped. Even when i get home from the tire shop i check the torque to make sure it's even.
 
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