spark knock
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spark knock
Does anybody know anything bout spark knock...
I have a 1999 ranger xlt...low miles
i replaced the maff sensor in it and it still knocks...
I also using higher grade gas. and still making noise
what can i do to stop this e mail me at rinkers870@msn.com
I have a 1999 ranger xlt...low miles
i replaced the maff sensor in it and it still knocks...
I also using higher grade gas. and still making noise
what can i do to stop this e mail me at rinkers870@msn.com
Last edited by Ken00; Jun 25, 2005 at 07:26 PM.
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from what i was told from a ford tech a 4.0L just does it after 20k or so miles. mine did, and he said to buy 4 bottles of techron fuel injector cleaner, run 2 bottles to 1 tank of gas, and do it for 2 tanks, and it has helped ALOT of my truck quited it down... it is still there but not noticable now. i went the xtra mile and ran priemum techron gas too..
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From: SW Va
Could be lower a intake manafold gasket vacuum leak, which is an unmetered air leak that will lean out the A/F mixture & this leak is common on this engine.
Try re-torquing the bolts in the proper sequence, to the proper torque, if your lucky & the gasket hasn't sucked in, maybe it'll fix er up.
If it's carbon build up, Techron & a good 20 mile interstate run, with periods of >3K rpm is good for removing it.
There is also good info in the "technical stickey" at the top of this forums main page, on how to "decarbon" the 4.0L with MotorCraft PM-3, if you think carbon build up is your problem.
But i'd look for unmetered vacuum leaks first.
Try re-torquing the bolts in the proper sequence, to the proper torque, if your lucky & the gasket hasn't sucked in, maybe it'll fix er up.
If it's carbon build up, Techron & a good 20 mile interstate run, with periods of >3K rpm is good for removing it.
There is also good info in the "technical stickey" at the top of this forums main page, on how to "decarbon" the 4.0L with MotorCraft PM-3, if you think carbon build up is your problem.
But i'd look for unmetered vacuum leaks first.
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From: SW Va
Good point Bill, I see I read the #2 post into the first one & thought we were talking 4.0L. Gettin bad when i can't remember longer than two posts what I've read LOL Gettin old is a REAL BUMMER, but I'm not givin up!!!!!
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From: Cypress, CA
Pawpaw: Memory is the second thing to go and I forgot what the first thing is? hee hee
Rinky: Since indeed we do not know which engine you have in your Ranger I can provide some general advice in this area: Look at the thread in this forum with regard to decarbonizing a 4.0 engine. This will describe the process for you and what to expect. I personally have had wonderful luck with a product called Seafoam Deep Creep. Follow the instructions in the decarbonizing thread and use the vacuum hose to your power brake unit to introduce the seafoam into your intake system. After the "soak" when you start the truck it will smoke like a chimney for a while. A second ingestion of seafoam may be necessary to really clean up your intake system. The other area that is a problem on the 4-cylinder models is the EGR passageway into the intake manifold. You may need to remove your EGR valve and clean out the passageway with some wire and Seafoam to remove the carbon buildup. Have a shop vac handy to "suck up" all of the residue from this endeavor.
Keep us posted.
Russ
Rinky: Since indeed we do not know which engine you have in your Ranger I can provide some general advice in this area: Look at the thread in this forum with regard to decarbonizing a 4.0 engine. This will describe the process for you and what to expect. I personally have had wonderful luck with a product called Seafoam Deep Creep. Follow the instructions in the decarbonizing thread and use the vacuum hose to your power brake unit to introduce the seafoam into your intake system. After the "soak" when you start the truck it will smoke like a chimney for a while. A second ingestion of seafoam may be necessary to really clean up your intake system. The other area that is a problem on the 4-cylinder models is the EGR passageway into the intake manifold. You may need to remove your EGR valve and clean out the passageway with some wire and Seafoam to remove the carbon buildup. Have a shop vac handy to "suck up" all of the residue from this endeavor.
Keep us posted.
Russ
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My '04 did this from day 1. After several trips to the dealer, Ford came out with a program change for the computer that fixed the problem.
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From: Eastern WA
I'd be very cautious about using the vacuum hose leading to the PB booster. The ID of that hose is much larger than the one used in the TSB and it ingests to a different location on the intake; I'd hate to see so much liquid ingested so rapidly that the engine hydrauliced and bent a rod or God knows what other internal damage.
Tim, I'm not sure that the memory in a 99 can be flashed at the dealer due to the age on the vehicle (ECM build/design). My 04 pings a bit too (4.0 SOHC); I mentioned reflashing the memory in the ECM to a Ford Master Tech. He said, what happens (and as I expected to hear) is that reflashing the memory changes the spark curve. There will come a point, after the customer complains enough about the knock and they reflash it a few times, the customer will next complain about a lack of power and gas mileage. No more knock but at a price.
Tim, I'm not sure that the memory in a 99 can be flashed at the dealer due to the age on the vehicle (ECM build/design). My 04 pings a bit too (4.0 SOHC); I mentioned reflashing the memory in the ECM to a Ford Master Tech. He said, what happens (and as I expected to hear) is that reflashing the memory changes the spark curve. There will come a point, after the customer complains enough about the knock and they reflash it a few times, the customer will next complain about a lack of power and gas mileage. No more knock but at a price.
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From: Cypress, CA
Bill: You make a good point in regard to using the power brake booster hose. It is easy to control the amount of seafoam being ingested - not enough to completely stall the engine. I do this because it is faster and easier. However, as you make a good point, to an untrained person it could be possible to hydrolock the engine.
Rinky: go slow - the engine will sputter and that is enough of a flow of seafoam into the engine. Once about half the can has been ingested, shut the engine off and allow it to soak for 20 minutes or so.
Russ
Rinky: go slow - the engine will sputter and that is enough of a flow of seafoam into the engine. Once about half the can has been ingested, shut the engine off and allow it to soak for 20 minutes or so.
Russ
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From: South Texas
I have an '87 Ranger with a 2.3 that has a fair amount of carbon buildup in the intake. Would this method be effective for cleaning it up, or would I be better off just leaving it and not risking any damage?
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From: SW Va
I've often wondered if one of those metal inflator needles, used to inflate foot *****, basket *****, ect, wouldn't be a good to use on the intake side, with the SeaFoam injested through a vacuum line.
Just size the vacuum lines to fit the needle & insert it into & out of the SeaFoam can as needed. Not likely you could quickly suck enough Seafoam into the engine through it's two small orfices to hydo~lock an engine, which as Bill has pointed out, would be easy to do with a large dia. vacuum hose.
Also perhaps a can in the gas tank, may be a kinder way to go, as it would clean things in the injectors, on the intake valves & engine combustion chamber more slowly, like the way the deposits form.
Also wouldn't load the cat converter with a slug of seaFoam & carbon all of a sudden. Of course, doing it though the tank won't clean the intake manafold. But then adding it through a vacuum line doesn't clean the injectors either!!!!!
Just some thoughts for consideration.
rinky, we still need to know which engine you have!!!!
Just size the vacuum lines to fit the needle & insert it into & out of the SeaFoam can as needed. Not likely you could quickly suck enough Seafoam into the engine through it's two small orfices to hydo~lock an engine, which as Bill has pointed out, would be easy to do with a large dia. vacuum hose.
Also perhaps a can in the gas tank, may be a kinder way to go, as it would clean things in the injectors, on the intake valves & engine combustion chamber more slowly, like the way the deposits form.
Also wouldn't load the cat converter with a slug of seaFoam & carbon all of a sudden. Of course, doing it though the tank won't clean the intake manafold. But then adding it through a vacuum line doesn't clean the injectors either!!!!!
Just some thoughts for consideration.
rinky, we still need to know which engine you have!!!!
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From: Eastern WA
Here's where the TSB from Ford says to ingest the PM3 cleaner. I like how it's at the front of the OHV engine. By design, the engine is tilted slightly downward at the rear. This encorages the PM3 to be drawn into each cylinder. Also note that the ingestion point is directly behind the butterfly valve. Due to high air velocity at this point, the PM3 likely breaks up into small droplets and is distributed more evenly into each cylinder.
I followed the TSB to the tee with full confidence. Think of it like this; if a Ford Tech hydraulics an engine doing exactly what the TSB (ie, FoMoCo) tells him to do, you can bet that the service manager will be on the phone demanding that Ford pay for the new engine and NOT the dealership. I highly doubt the factory will/would allow a TSB with bad info to go without a revision for very long.
I followed the TSB to the tee with full confidence. Think of it like this; if a Ford Tech hydraulics an engine doing exactly what the TSB (ie, FoMoCo) tells him to do, you can bet that the service manager will be on the phone demanding that Ford pay for the new engine and NOT the dealership. I highly doubt the factory will/would allow a TSB with bad info to go without a revision for very long.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Jun 27, 2005 at 12:16 PM.
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