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I have an 89 Bronco and the electronic shift works fine into 4 hi but will not shift in to 4lo. I pulled the motor and manually turned it to 4 lo with no binding. i bought an after market shift motor and this one didn't work period. Luckly it was warrentied. any help would be appreciated. thanks
Mark
OK, not to sound like a dig, but there are some people who are just not too familiar with 4x4 systems...you need to be in neutral and stopped to go into and out of 4lo. This is due to the large change in gear ratio. Once in neutral, hit the button, then back into drive or reverse. You can go into and out of 4hi though without having to go into neutral or stopping.
Now seeing that you replaced the shift motor already, I will assume you are very familiar with 4x4's....
The motor may work fine when out of the t-case, but that doesn't mean the t-case is working 100%. I am not sure how with the electronic version, but see if there is a way to test the t-case movement itself. Maybe it is binding and the motor doesn't have the muscle to move it.
Last edited by BillyBob69; Jun 21, 2005 at 11:19 AM.
motor doesn't shift to 4 lo period. I have tried it with the motor on the t case and off. it only shifts to 4hi. I know you need to be in neutral and foot on the brake. I was wondering if there is a way to test the motor with out taking it apart. Can you rtest the speed sensor and the netraul aswitch and what other compents make the motor turn .
Last edited by oldbluebronco; Jun 21, 2005 at 11:26 AM.
Reason: adding
AHHHH the motor is what isn't moving to LO. Then starting at the switch, trace the power through the system. Could be that you need to replace the relay which is pretty easy and it should be behind the passenger side kick panel. If you have a Haynes or Chilton's manual, you can use the wiring diagrams to make tracing the wiring easier. I have a whole load of wiring diagrams for just about all the big bronco years. If you want I can search for it and send it to you. Just use my email link in my profile and I will let you know.
It is possible. I found the diagrams so if you want them, email me through my profile link and I will send them to you. 7 jpgs so it will have to be 7 different emails unless all you want is the one page for the 4x4.
Done the relay test. It seems to be fine. Was wondering if the motor could have failed in low only.
Some clarification will help...
1º Motor is comanded by computer and it is not sensitive to T-case position.
2º To shift to 4L, T-case MUST be in 4H AND vehicle totally stoped at least one second AND auto trans. in Neutral. (No matters foot on brake)
BUT here is the trick: after any command, computer verify T-case position by several rotative switches located at electrical motor and if T-case reachs the position comanded by user, computer will turn On or Off the proper cluster light, so be sure the 4X4 indicator is On before hit the Low Range button.
One more: Computer also verify vehicle speed through a magnetic sensor located at T-case output shaft AND it verify also if sensor is connected, so... IF speed sensor has a broken cable, or it is faulty THEN computer won't shift to Low Range.
Why the hell dont you just buy another new shift motor.....they are only like $99.....I always keep a extra one on the shelf (with just about every other part that is prone to failure).
A few us us at FTE have rebuilt our 4x4 transfer case motors.On the transfer case the motor drives the rotary cam to 3 positions. Its not unusual for the tranfer case to work in 2 positions and not the third 4 wd low,(that is the most clock wise position available.) Inside the motor/ cam theres a stop bushing that wears out and will not allow it in this position. Years of shifting: the electric motor gets dirty.If the cam isnt in the right positon then this shift motor will hang in between positions. Taking the motor apart is not real complicated but since the past 2 years these motor are cheaper as street gang has mentioned.Sum quoted by ford over 300$$$and seems, after market are popular.In rebuilding my motor and be electrically inclined and in putting it back together yielded a no shift position again.Disassembling it again and putting it back together it has worked since. There was a thread on this Rebuild for Explorers(who use the same shift motors as us Bronco owners )but has since closed .TR goodluck
...as I was guessing... motor is not the problem. See at my previous post, then:
1º Remove motor form T-case but don't disconnect it. Try shift and observe proper motor shaft operation.
2º Perform Selftest procedure for Electronic shift computer.
3º Double check T-case speed sensor functionality
4º Check at T-case connector for corrosion or bend/bronken pins
5º Check at electronic shift computer flat connectors for corrosion, clean contacts, plug and unplug each connector several times to clean contacts
I have checked the motor off the transfer case and still only 4hi, i have done the slef test and it checks ok. How do you check speed sensor funtionality and with new motor no wires go to the speed sensor. Same out come from new motor. need to check for broken or bent pins however I cleaned them recently. Need to check connectors in the kick panel. hopefully these things will cure my woes. You mentioned something about a printed circut on your other post. do you have those pictures?
1º Motor removed from T-case and still moving just to 4H, means there is no mechanical problem inside T-case. Motor doesn't move to 4L because computer doesn't comand it...
2º To test sped sensor, located the Lt. Blue and Lt. Gren wires at T-case connector, check for resistance, it should be between 200 to 350 Ohms. If right then reinstall connector and then...
3º At Electronic controller, remove the 8 wires flat conector. looking inside it and tab upward, from left to right messure resistance between pins 2 and 3 (Cables have same Blue and Green color) should be almost same previous reading.
4º The procedure to change/remove electrical motor requiere disassembly of 10 pins round/square conector to remove the speed sensor wires and after reinstall new motor, connector has to be reassembly again.
5º Printed circuit mentioned in other post reffer to a MLPS used on E4OD trannys and a modiffication to let the controller shift in "Park" also, not just Neutral.
It seems to me your problem is very simple. Speed sensor is missing, disconnected or faulty OR the push button at cluster "Low Range" is having troubles...
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